Resetting Optical Center on Nightforce Glass

[Full Curl]

No, not a good reason to start from optical center. The zero will be what it is based on your action/base/rings.

Figured I might be overthinking this... thanks. Maybe just more habit than anything else, I have always adjusted the crosshairs back to optical center in the scope body before mounting a scope.

 

[Full Curl]

Yep.

Figured this might be the case. I'm guilty... but only sometimes

 

[Full Curl]

What the OP is looking at doing is quite different than what you are explaining here. No doubt you are correct in your concept.
The OP thinks if he zeroes his reticle in the scope, (which most are zeroed from the factory, unless stated otherwise), he somehow miraculously will have more adjustment when trying to zero the scope at whatever distance he chooses. A scope only has so much internal travel.
In the context the OP wrote it, this thread was over at post #2.

(which most are zeroed from the factory, unless stated otherwise),

Agreed, but I have no idea where the reticle travel is at if said scope is used and/or came off a different rifle.

Thanks for the info. I'm definitely over thinking this.

 

[Full Curl]

I ran into an issue a couple of times myself.I ran out of elevation adjustment on a rifle trying to sight it in.I bought the next highest rings and was able to get the rifle sighted in.The next time I ran into an issue was I ran out of windage adjustment on a Ruger 1.I need to go 6" to the left and the scope ran out of adjustment and the rings had no adjustment either,the receiver is grooved for the rings so what do you do next.The scope was previously on a Remington 700 and it was working perfectly on that rifle.A knowledgeable fellow was there and he told me to reset the scope back to factory zero and told me how to do it.So from where the scope adjustment had stopped,I counted the number of clicks until it ran out of adjustment the other direction,then counted the number of clicks it took to go half way,which put the scope in the center of travel direction either way.I repeated that same step for the elevation adjustment as well.After all that movement of the turrets,I was quite surprised that I was only off 3" from the target bullseye the next shot and quite easy adjusted the scope to hit the bullseye.It's easier and quicker to do this with a mirror over the objective.You will see two sets of reticles.Simply turn the turrets until you see only one set.

I have always used the mirror method. I've heard it referred to as the "redneck method"

But it has always worked well for me.

 

[baldhunter]

I have always used the mirror method. I've heard it referred to as the "redneck method"

But it has always worked well for me.

I'd say once you zeroed your scope,then sight in your rifle at 100yds,then set your zero stop there and see what happens when you go out farther to see if you have enough adustments at the longer ranges.

 

[milo-2]

I ran into an issue a couple of times myself.I ran out of elevation adjustment on a rifle trying to sight it in.I bought the next highest rings and was able to get the rifle sighted in.The next time I ran into an issue was I ran out of windage adjustment on a Ruger 1.I need to go 6" to the left and the scope ran out of adjustment and the rings had no adjustment either,the receiver is grooved for the rings so what do you do next.The scope was previously on a Remington 700 and it was working perfectly on that rifle.A knowledgeable fellow was there and he told me to reset the scope back to factory zero and told me how to do it.So from where the scope adjustment had stopped,I counted the number of clicks until it ran out of adjustment the other direction,then counted the number of clicks it took to go half way,which put the scope in the center of travel direction either way.I repeated that same step for the elevation adjustment as well.After all that movement of the turrets,I was quite surprised that I was only off 3" from the target bullseye the next shot and quite easy adjusted the scope to hit the bullseye.It's easier and quicker to do this with a mirror over the objective.You will see two sets of reticles.Simply turn the turrets until you see only one set.

I will never wrap my head around needing a reticle optically zeroed to transfer from one rifle to the next.
I look at more like how old Leupold scopes travel was unraveled when taking a scope off a hunting rifle it had been on for 25 yrs, now transferred to a different rifle and now doesn't work right.
If someone can prove me wrong, I am all ears, but in your case, I say by working your turrets the way you did, you actually unfroze the erector set, and freed up the movement.
If you have had to send a scope in that didn't track correctly, it'd be easier to understand what I just said.

 

[Lee7588]

Out to 1000yds for this rig.

Are you going to be putting a base on that has MOA's built in? They have the scope centered and then to adjust for elevation means you're doing an awful lot of work just to screw it up. And as far as windage would it not be just as easy to count up your total clicks and go back to the middle

 

[BrentWA]

I ran into an issue a couple of times myself.I ran out of elevation adjustment on a rifle trying to sight it in.I bought the next highest rings and was able to get the rifle sighted in.The next time I ran into an issue was I ran out of windage adjustment on a Ruger 1.I need to go 6" to the left and the scope ran out of adjustment and the rings had no adjustment either,the receiver is grooved for the rings so what do you do next.The scope was previously on a Remington 700 and it was working perfectly on that rifle.A knowledgeable fellow was there and he told me to reset the scope back to factory zero and told me how to do it.So from where the scope adjustment had stopped,I counted the number of clicks until it ran out of adjustment the other direction,then counted the number of clicks it took to go half way,which put the scope in the center of travel direction either way.I repeated that same step for the elevation adjustment as well.After all that movement of the turrets,I was quite surprised that I was only off 3" from the target bullseye the next shot and quite easy adjusted the scope to hit the bullseye.It's easier and quicker to do this with a mirror over the objective.You will see two sets of reticles.Simply turn the turrets until you see only one set.

If you were 6" off, then ran your turrets all the way back and forth, and then were only 3" off, I'd say you have a scope that doesn't track accurately.

 

[baldhunter]

I will never wrap my head around needing a reticle optically zeroed to transfer from one rifle to the next.
I look at more like how old Leupold scopes travel was unraveled when taking a scope off a hunting rifle it had been on for 25 yrs, now transferred to a different rifle and now doesn't work right.
If someone can prove me wrong, I am all ears, but in your case, I say by working your turrets the way you did, you actually unfroze the erector set, and freed up the movement.
If you have had to send a scope in that didn't track correctly, it'd be easier to understand what I just said.

From what I've noticed is if you switch the scope to a rifle that is similar say from one Remington rifle to another Remington rifle,it may shoot close to the same point of impact as it did on the previous rifle.In the case where I ran out of adjustment on the scope I had on the Ruger 1.The scope was originally on a Remington 700 with STD. mounts.The Ruger has a grooved receiver and the rings were factory without any adjustment,only with the scope.So see,two totally different rifles and mounting systems.By re-zeroing the internals in the scope,put the scope back like it would be if it was a new scope mounted on the rifle for the first time.And no the erector system was not stuck and the scope tracked perfectly.I was a Weaver Super Slam scope that were built by(LOW) Light Opticle Works for Weaver.

 

[milo-2]

From what I've noticed is if you switch the scope to a rifle that is similar say from one Remington rifle to another Remington rifle,it may shoot close to the same point of impact as it did on the previous rifle.In the case where I ran out of adjustment on the scope I had on the Ruger 1.The scope was originally on a Remington 700 with STD. mounts.The Ruger has a grooved receiver and the rings were factory without any adjustment,only with the scope.So see,two totally different rifles and mounting systems.By re-zeroing the internals in the scope,put the scope back like it would be if it was a new scope mounted on the rifle for the first time.And no the erector system was not stuck and the scope tracked perfectly.I was a Weaver Super Slam scope that were built by(LOW) Light Opticle Works for Weaver.

I hope it didn't seem like i was calling you out, or putting you on the spot. Not my intent.

 

[Huntnful]

Definitely overthinking it. Just mount it properly, and then pull the bolt out and look down the barrel and center the bore on an object about 50-100 yards away. And then adjust the scope to align with the object the bore is centered on. There's zero reason to pre-adjust the scope, only to immediately adjust it again once it's mounted.

 

[baldhunter]

If you were 6" off, then ran your turrets all the way back and forth, and then were only 3" off, I'd say you have a scope that doesn't track accurately.

You are not understanding it right.I was totally out of adjustment to the left.I needed to move the adjustments 6" to the left to get to the bullseye.I think the total number of clicks to go from where the scope stopped traveling all the way to the left to where it stopped all the way to the right was 250 clicks.From all the way to the right,I turned the turret to go back left 125 clicks.125 clicks back put me to the center of the travel either direction.Then I shot the rifle and I was only off 3" from the bullseye from the previous shot that was 6" from the bullseye when I ran out of adjustment turned all the way to the left.

 

[baldhunter]

I hope it didn't seem like i was calling you out, or putting you on the spot. Not my intent.

No feeling hurt.I was thinking BS myself the day the guy was telling me how to do this until I saw it work.

 

[BrentWA]

You are not understanding it right.I was totally out of adjustment to the left.I needed to move the adjustments 6" to the left to get to the bullseye.I think the total number of clicks to go from where the scope stopped traveling all the way to the left to where it stopped all the way to the right was 250 clicks.From all the way to the right,I turned the turret to go back left 125 clicks.125 clicks back put me to the center of the travel either direction.Then I shot the rifle and I was only off 3" from the bullseye from the previous shot that was 6" from the bullseye when I ran out of adjustment turned all the way to the left.

So you needed to move the scope 6" left, and by doing your turret exercise, you moved the scope 31" to the right (250 clicks - 125 clicks = 125 clicks, assuming MOA adjustments at 100 yards), and that moved your POI 3" to the left…..