How hard is it to remove a Tikka barrel? I have access to a clean Tikka 30-06 that Id like to make into a 280 Ackley but I have no experience with the barrel removal.
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Removing a Tikka Barrel
- Thread starter KTP
- Start date
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You'll get mixed reports. I've read a few times folks like to soak it in penetrating oil prior to trying.
I have a barrel vice and outside action wrench (wheeler #1). Once I got the barrel down nice and tight mine popped off with just a breaker bar. Wasn't an issue at all. I didn't need to use anything special. It was a new factory barreled action (unmodified).
I have a barrel vice and outside action wrench (wheeler #1). Once I got the barrel down nice and tight mine popped off with just a breaker bar. Wasn't an issue at all. I didn't need to use anything special. It was a new factory barreled action (unmodified).
wldcat
Well-Known Member
Same here, I got all worked up expecting to fight it and it pops right off so I guess it's just luck of the draw, sometimes it's easy and sometimes you have to cut them off……
It took me 5 minutes with a Short Action Custom Receiver Wrench, and a Wheeler action wrench. (Both from Midway), and I sprayed the barrel threads with PB Blaster for 2 weeks. No heat, or anything. Mine was a Tikka T3 Lite 243. I was nervous to do it seeing aa the horror stories but time, research and patience worked.
I've done quite a few now, don't think the penetrating oil makes any difference personally and i use kroil. What works for me is a little impact with a weighted mallet on the action wrench handle. It seems to break it free easier, instead of using extreme torque or heat. Have had success many times doing it this way.
I took my Tikka T3 3006 to a gunsmith buddy. Key is super tight clamping of barrel in the barrel vise, an external action wrench, and a very large hammer. First try the barrel spun in the vise so he removed all the tape etc. and clamped direct to factory barrel. Came right off next try. Minor marring of barrel which I doubt will ever be used again anyway.
LuvDog
Well-Known Member
Do you care about salvaging the current barrel?
If not, then I find it goes better because you're not afraid to really crank down on the barrel vise.
A good external action wrench... a long cheater bar... and swift hits to break it loose.
If not, then I find it goes better because you're not afraid to really crank down on the barrel vise.
A good external action wrench... a long cheater bar... and swift hits to break it loose.
Good point buzby. May need to rethink this
W
Wyo37
Guest
This was my experience
I had a real stubborn T3x barrel removal that I could not budge with wheeler 1 wrench. Tried heating with a torch with no improvement, even leaning into it and whacking the wrench handle with a dead blow hammer.
Finally soaking the threads with liquid wrench over night and trying again did the trick. Still took a fair amount of force to break it, but it finally worked.
A quality barrel vise torqued down TIGHT is crutial!
Finally soaking the threads with liquid wrench over night and trying again did the trick. Still took a fair amount of force to break it, but it finally worked.
A quality barrel vise torqued down TIGHT is crutial!
xsn10s
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2016
- Messages
- 7,649
Tikka barrels are some of the easiest to remove. I have done dozens and dozens.
The trick is to have an aluminium sleeve matching very well the tapered contour close to the breach. My barrel clamp(2" bore diameter) goes over that sleeve.
You can adjust the position of the barrel in relation to the sleeve so that the engraving is facing one of the clamping side of the sleeve. This helps for the grip. My tikka wrench is clamping the action on the flat sides of the receiver, just tight enough but not too tight. It is not necessary and creates to much tension on the threads.
I have a 3 feet tube going on my action wrench handle and most barreled actions come undone very easily.
The trick is to have an aluminium sleeve matching very well the tapered contour close to the breach. My barrel clamp(2" bore diameter) goes over that sleeve.
You can adjust the position of the barrel in relation to the sleeve so that the engraving is facing one of the clamping side of the sleeve. This helps for the grip. My tikka wrench is clamping the action on the flat sides of the receiver, just tight enough but not too tight. It is not necessary and creates to much tension on the threads.
I have a 3 feet tube going on my action wrench handle and most barreled actions come undone very easily.
