Removing Barrel from Action

The Real McCoy

Well-Known Member
Feb 13, 2008
What is involved in removing a barrel from an action and reinstalling? I want to have a barrel fluted but the person doing the work will only accept barrels removed from the action. The gun in question is a Knight revolution II 50cal muzzleloader (if that makes any difference). If I can just unscrew the barrel and have the work done, then rescrew the barrel back on would make life alot easier.
First off, let me pass this along so you don't end up disappointed.

If you want your barrel fluted, make sure you clearly mark the 12 O clock position of the barrel before you remove it from the action. The shop performing the work has no idea where the clock position is and this will almost certainly result in the flutes not timing up properly when reinstalled on the action.

As far as removal. You need some tools or a local gunsmith capable of doing this kind of work.

A barrel vise is a must. These are typically made of steel and use two "C" shaped blocks that clamp together by screws or large bolts.

Then you'll need inserts machined to your barrel cylinder's diameter. Typical sizes are 1.25, 1.200, and 1.150".

From there, get some rosin for a ball glove.

Take a strip of paper, dust it with rosin, and then wrap the barrel tightly where the jaws are going to contact the barrel. Now, take a can of Kroil and soak the threads of the barrel through the front scope mount hole. Hose everything you can so that it'll creep into the threads between the barrel and action.

Now get a heat gun. Turn it on high and begin heating the receiver until the Kroil begins to smoke to high heaven (never had it catch on fire, so don't worry). When white smoke is pouring off the action, insert an action wrench (a big "key" machined to emulate the raceways of the action, the back end will be square and will allow a 1.125/1.25 12 point socket and breaker bar)

It'll more than likely take some effort and it'll probably "pop" when it finally lets go. From there it's just a matter of unscrewing it from the action. The rosin will stick to the barrel pretty good. Any cleaner should remove it.

Good luck.
hmmmm. I loosen the action screws and lift the barreled action out of the stock. I then wrap the barrel in a bit of newspaper to prevent scratching the paint on the barrel, put the barreled action into the barrel vice (with the action about an inch from the vice), insert the action wrench and turn with a bit of authority until it comes loose - no popping noises so far but that would be interesting. No heating guns or rosen are involved, but to each his own.

I also make sure to put a bit of anti-seize on the threads of both the stainless barrel and the action and spread it out over the threads before putting it back on and then hand turning the barrel back onto the action, when it gets hand tight, I reinsert the action wrench and put a bit of torque on it (maybe 20-30 inch pounds), and its done. As a right-handed twist, the barrel will self-tighten from there, if it feels the need, as the bullet srun down the barrel.

Next step is inserting and tightening the action screws, then torquing the action screws to the proper inch pounds, and I'm done.

To be honest, it sounds more difficult then it really is. In fact, the last time I swapped out the barrel on my F-Class rig, I was in a real hurry and left the scope attached to the action and it suffered not the slightest ding or scratch.

Being the former production manager for Nesika Bay Precision and Dakota Arms, Inc. taught me a few things and I wanted to pass them along.

As Jeff said, to each his own.
But Chad,

Jeff was able to figure out how to get a barrel off an action that was set up to easily have the barrel taken off. Give him some credit.:rolleyes:

All you did was give the very best detailed explanation I've ever read. Factory barrels are a mother.

Thank you for sharing your insight and experience. I always enjoy reading your posts.
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