Removing a barrel without marring it (at all)

[066wally]

McMaster Carr for shim stock. Or split copper pipe.
I've used lead cast bushings my dad made that work well. They were cast around the barrel being pulled. I need to figure out a way to do that. I've also used masking tape and rosin in my vise.

 

[Paper boy]

Try "metal supermarket" I'm sure they have locations near you. Find them on line.

 

[Far North Hunter]

McMaster Carr for shim stock. Or split copper pipe.
I've used lead cast bushings my dad made that work well. They were cast around the barrel being pulled. I need to figure out a way to do that. I've also used masking tape and rosin in my vise.

Thanks, I need to contact Mcmaster carr to get several special taps, so I will get some shim stock as well.

 

[rewiltshire]

I have to ask, what caliber is your FN in? Unless it is in some hot rod chambering the chance of you shooting it out is slim. Most older chamberings can last thousands of rounds. More than most will even shoot. Rather than rebarrel for fear of losing the original barrel, just buy another rifle in the caliber of choice.

Amen, never have enough rifles in the safe - Ha Ha!
I always seem to be looking for that one I just can't live without.

 

[J E Custom]

has anyone used the lead shims sold by Brwnells? are they effective is lessoning the chance of maring the bbl finish? Where would you get the brass or copper shim material for a bbl vise?

I go to a machine supply and buy shim stock. you can get it in copper, brass and stainless in thicknesses of .001 to .040 +. For this use I prefer the .002 to .003 thousandths so it doesn't interfere with the barrel or receiver fit. The copper is softer and appears to grip better, plus if it leaves any traces on ether the barrel or the receiver, it can be easily removed with bore solvent.

Lead is to soft in my opinion to apply enough grip, and is more difficult to remove.

I like the 6" x 12" sheets so I can cut them to fit the aluminum bushings on the barrel vise inserts, and also on the receiver wrench. (Which is steel and has to have a buffer to prevent damage to the receiver finish).

J E CUSTOM

 

[tobnpr]

Can it be done?
You bet.
Would I ever think about guaranteeing it, and being liable if it slips?
No how, no way, never.

ETA: This is a matter of pure economics for me. After pulling the barrel- are you going to give the same smith the job of rebarreling it? Maybe then, it would be worth the economic risk of eating a hot blue job if something went south.
But, the idea of making, oh, I dunno- maybe $30-$40 to pull a barrel, and assume that risk, would be idiocy for me.

 

[TRexF16]

I have no idea how many hundred rebores JES does every year, but they pull the barrels to do so and reinstall them without any marks. That's on bolts, pumps, autos, and SS. They only charge $250 total for a rebore and rechamber. I bet Jess would pull your barrel for peanuts.
JES Reboring
No connection just a satisfied customer.
But I would still be surprised if any good local gunsmith couldn't pull your barrel without marring it.
Rex

 

[JTB]

When I need to remove a barrel that has cerakote or that cannot be marred I clamp it in oak blocks with some rosin and avoid using a metallic clamping surfaces. Tight fitting oak will hold very well but the blocks are generally single use, especially if clamping to a tapered contour. Otherwise, carefully sized and applied aluminum sleeves hold well and will not mar a stainless/uncoated barrel surface.

 

[stangfish]

I have been using leather and it works fine. I think the soft metal would work also. But it can embed in the finish.