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REM 700 6.5x55 Swede cold barrel groups. . .

STEEL SLINGER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2012
Messages
394
Location
Florida's Nature Coast
Hello fellas,

I found another Remington 700 Classic in 6.5 Swede a couple weeks ago and decided it needed to come home with me. I have another one that I've had for some time now and after a little tinkering it shoots great. This new one has me puzzled! If I shoot for groups (5 shots) it will hold them in a 1 1/2", but if I wait about 10/15 minutes between each shot that same group will touch holes! ! ! The action was bedded and I played with a few other things and it still will not shoot a string of shots. . .what gives???

My load is the same as for the other 700 6.5;

Lapua brass
48.5 grains H4831SC
140 grain A-Max
WIN LR primer

Anyone esle ever had a rifle do this? If so, how was it fixed? Thank you.
 
Hello fellas,

I found another Remington 700 Classic in 6.5 Swede a couple weeks ago and decided it needed to come home with me. I have another one that I've had for some time now and after a little tinkering it shoots great. This new one has me puzzled! If I shoot for groups (5 shots) it will hold them in a 1 1/2", but if I wait about 10/15 minutes between each shot that same group will touch holes! ! ! The action was bedded and I played with a few other things and it still will not shoot a string of shots. . .what gives???

My load is the same as for the other 700 6.5;

Lapua brass
48.5 grains H4831SC
140 grain A-Max
WIN LR primer

Anyone esle ever had a rifle do this? If so, how was it fixed? Thank you.

i have had factory barrels do the same thing i'm no Xpert but i just put it down to bodgy stress relief
 
Most of the time shot stringing as the barrel heats up is caused by the fit of the barrel to the receiver. If the receiver face isn't square with its barrel tenon thread axis, the barrel shoulder will fit tight at one point around its contact surface. As the barrel and receiver expand a bit from heating, more stress is put on the barrel at that point which bends it. And that moves the bore axis at the muzzle in some direction from where it points when cold.

It can be fixed by having a 'smith properly face the receiver back .005 to .010 inch, then put a shim that thick between it and the receiver when clocked back in to maintain headspace. I've seen this done many times; always worked very well.

If that doesn't fix the problem, then the barrel's not properly stress relieved.
 
Most of the time shot stringing as the barrel heats up is caused by the fit of the barrel to the receiver. If the receiver face isn't square with its barrel tenon thread axis, the barrel shoulder will fit tight at one point around its contact surface. As the barrel and receiver expand a bit from heating, more stress is put on the barrel at that point which bends it. And that moves the bore axis at the muzzle in some direction from where it points when cold.

It can be fixed by having a 'smith properly face the receiver back .005 to .010 inch, then put a shim that thick between it and the receiver when clocked back in to maintain headspace. I've seen this done many times; always worked very well.

If that doesn't fix the problem, then the barrel's not properly stress relieved.

I have not trued a receiver face in 13 years. I build 3 or 4 rifles per year. I have had some rifles that shoot a string like that. I thought only interference between a stock and hot barrel caused that.

I guess it is back to making mandrels for me, and turning the receivers.
 
I thought only interference between a stock and hot barrel caused that.
If the barrel has an epoxy bedding pad under its chamber area, that will happen. Proved it to me by bedding two magnum barrels (one 30 caliber, one 26 caliber) that way, then tested them for accuracy at long range. As the barrel heated up, shots strung vertically. For every 1/2 inch of bedding pad I removed, vertical stringing got less.
 
For years I bedded the first inch of barrel in front of the receiver.
Lately I have been making combination recoil lug abutment/front pillar structures and glassing them into the stock. I am only touching the barrelled receiver very close to the two screws that clamp it. I test bedding jobs by banging the barrel and listening to it ring. With the stock, it should sound like a tuning fork. This 6.5-06 I built in July worked out well for me in October.
 

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If the barrel has an epoxy bedding pad under its chamber area, that will happen. Proved it to me by bedding two magnum barrels (one 30 caliber, one 26 caliber) that way, then tested them for accuracy at long range. As the barrel heated up, shots strung vertically. For every 1/2 inch of bedding pad I removed, vertical stringing got less.

Bart,

So what you're saying is; any bedding in front of the lug could be throwing things out of whack? There is about an inch of bedding compound in front of the lug. I will try removing some of this and see what happens. Seems odd, but I'm open minded. I will let you all know if this help. And thank you guys for the info.

Merry Christmas to all.
 
Bart,

So what you're saying is; any bedding in front of the lug could be throwing things out of whack? There is about an inch of bedding compound in front of the lug. I will try removing some of this and see what happens. Seems odd, but I'm open minded. I will let you all know if this help. And thank you guys for the info.

Merry Christmas to all.

When you think about it - it is logical to assume the first inch of the barrel probably absorbs/retains the most heet and with that first inch bedded that portion has no place to go with the bedding on the underside but the opposite directions.
 
When you think about it - it is logical to assume the first inch of the barrel probably absorbs/retains the most heet and with that first inch bedded that portion has no place to go with the bedding on the underside but the opposite directions.

I may have some experimenting to do on my bedding job also. Mine is two shots touching third one two inches high confirmed three times in a row.
 
I may have some experimenting to do on my bedding job also. Mine is two shots touching third one two inches high confirmed three times in a row.

If you really want to see what your rifle is doing, the next time you go out shoot at the longest distance you have available - that'll show you a lot better than shooting at 100 yds.
 
I can get 350 yds. at my local club but have only shot metal plates over 100. Need to get some paper targets out there.
 
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