reloading steps/equipment...what should I change if anything?

[Bigeclipse]

I have made two lists below of my reloading tools and process. I am looking to upgrade some tools and modify my process to try and get better reloading results for accuracy. I am not a competition shooter nor extreme long range hunter. I am just looking at what you would do given what I listed below. The first list are my tools I own. Should I replace any of them or add to what I already have? If so, what would give me the biggest accuracy improvements for the buck. For example, buying a better press Vs buying competition dies Vs buying some tools I do not yet use such as concentricity tools? The second list is my current reloading steps. Please comment on them and let me know what I should change and how. thanks!

Tools I have:
1. Press. I currently have a regular RCBS single stage press (it is old 15-20 years?)
2. Dies. I currently use the regular over the counter type dies such as RCBS or Redding. No competition dies yet.
3. Scale. Currently use a gempro 250 and then check it for drift with a RCBS balance.
4. Case cleaning tools. Currently regular vibrating type and sometimes use an ultrasonic.
5. Primer pocket tools. I do not have any of these.
6. Concentricity tools. I do not have any of these.
7. Neck turning tools. I do not have any of these.
8. Hand primer. (I own an RCBS priming tool)
9. Case trimmer. Nothing special just regular RCBS trimmer.
10. Deburer. Hand version.
11. OAL gauge/comperator. I own the Harnady one.

Reloading steps:
1. Case cleaning/prep. I currently tumble and sometimes use ultrasonic.
2. Sizing. I full length size (Don't like the idea of neck sizing and possibly getting a case stuck. Have had this happen once).
3. Trimming/debur. I trim with RCBS trimmer and debur the neck with a hand tool.
4. Prime. I prime with RCBS hand primer universal.
5. Charge. I use two scales (GEMpro 250 and RCBS beam to confirm no drift)
6. Seating. I use a seating die (Not competition) and measure my rounds with a caliper to the ogive. What I do is I seat the bullet slightly longer than desired depth. Pull the round out of the press and measure. if it is not deep enough I will screw down the die a little bit, put the round back into the press and continue seating. I do this until the round is at the desired depth. (I will be honest and say I'm not sure if this step is hurting more than helping because maybe multiple pressings on a single round is somehow bad?)

 

[Barrelnut]

You need a concentricity gauge. This is the only way to verify that the ammo you are creating is straight. You can measure the concentricity of the necks after you size the case and then after you seat the bullet. This will tell you at what stage of prep the problem is happening. It could be caused by necks that have too much material on one side - You can then learn to turn the necks or not use those cases. It might also be caused by your dies, your expander ball, whatever. With the gauge you will be able to determine where it is happening and know when you have resolved it.
https://www.brownells.com/reloading...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=749-007-902

 

[rcoody]

sounds like you have a pretty good procedure down.

Are you happy with the accuracy you are getting now?
what cartridges are you loading?
what rifles?
what kind of accuracy are you looking for?

it is easy to go down the rabbit hole here.

with a good seating die you should be able to set it once and put a lock ring on it and not mess with it any more.
how many times have you fired your brass? Do you keep like headstamps and times fired sorted?
If you have problems seating bullets with consistent base to ogive you have a neck tension issue. some of your brass is more work hardened than others. Easy fix. Anneal.

if you want to upgrade your dies it is hard to beat the forster benchrest sizer/seater combo. Reasonably priced too.

i would get a crockagator primer pocket cleaning tool. very inexpensive.

only if you are looking at trying to get consistent half moa or better accuracy would i start with concentricity and neck turning and all the other tricks of the trade. if you don't have a rifle capable then the best handloads made won't help.

 

[Bigeclipse]

sounds like you have a pretty good procedure down.

Are you happy with the accuracy you are getting now?
what cartridges are you loading?
what rifles?
what kind of accuracy are you looking for?

it is easy to go down the rabbit hole here.

with a good seating die you should be able to set it once and put a lock ring on it and not mess with it any more.
how many times have you fired your brass? Do you keep like headstamps and times fired sorted?
If you have problems seating bullets with consistent base to ogive you have a neck tension issue. some of your brass is more work hardened than others. Easy fix. Anneal.

if you want to upgrade your dies it is hard to beat the forster benchrest sizer/seater combo. Reasonably priced too.

i would get a crockagator primer pocket cleaning tool. very inexpensive.

only if you are looking at trying to get consistent half moa or better accuracy would i start with concentricity and neck turning and all the other tricks of the trade. if you don't have a rifle capable then the best handloads made won't help.

Thank you. I am loading for only 1 rifle at the moment but will be loading for 4 total. Two are semi custom savages which have been rebarreled and bedded in nice stocks and are consistent sub 1MOA rifles with factory ammo one is 7mm rem mag and the other is a 7mm08. Another is a Remington mountain stainless in 3006 (typical 1-1.5inch groups with factory ammo) and last is a savage lady hunter in 7mm08 which has pillars but is not bedded. This rifle is similar 1-1.5 groups. My goal is simply to make some loads for these rifles that yields comparable if not better accuracy than factory.

 

[rcoody]

reloading is a lot of fun. without going crazy you should have no problem improving your rifle's performance with the factory ammo with some good handloads.

read what others have been sucessful with, use quality components, follow a good load development/seating depth testing procedure and be consistent.

 

[Rich Coyle]

tag

 

[Buck Buster]

I think you have about what you need. I trim the length of my cases and check them with a caliper, I usually make them the same length as a factory round or what the manual says the length should be, then use the hand tool to deburr the necks inside and out. Then clean the insides of the necks with that caliber of brush. Next I clean the primer pockets out good with a little hand tool brush made for it. Before I do anything to resize the cases I lube the outside of the cases with a light oil to prevent them from sticking or working hard in the resizing dies. The only thing that I thought of that you should have is another single stage press so you could put your resizing die in one and your seating die in the other, it saves a lot of time. Or you could invest in a new multiple stage press. Just keep your wits about you when reloading, don't be talking to someone and trying to reload at the same time. I guess what I really wanted to say is avoid all distractions while you are reloading, and follow the loading manual. Start loads well below max and slowly work up watching for pressure signs. DONT SMOKE while loading, use common sense and you should be fine.

 

[rcoody]

i only trim when necessary and then only half way between trim to length and saami max. i also trim a whole group of cases at the same time where they are all the same length.

imperial sizing wax is the best sizing lubricant. after sizing i put them in the tumbler for an hour or two to remove lube

no need for two presses or a progressive if you just get your dies set and put forster lock rings on them. just takes a second to screw one out and another in. if you have a co-ax press it is really simple.

NEVER!!! start below saami min. low charges are dangerous!!! I start about the middle of manuals recommend charges and work up. your rifle will tell you what it likes.

 

[Garycrow]

Hornady headspace gauges. You already have the body for the bullet comparator it sounds like, just get the headspace inserts and you're good to go.
Forster benchrest dies.
Concentricity gauge.

 

[rcoody]

Hornady headspace gauges. You already have the body for the bullet comparator it sounds like, just get the headspace inserts and you're good to go.
Forster benchrest dies.
Concentricity gauge.

yep headspace is very important. i just "assume" (got me again) all reloaders know how to set their dies up for a .001 to .002 shoulder bump.

just remember this. don't go worrying about setting up that shoulder bump on the first firing. measure sure look at the difference between loaded and fired. just set the die where it neck sizes and doesn't bump the shoulder. it usually takes about 3 firings to fully fireform a case. when that case's fired shoulder dimension stabilizes then it is time to set the die for a shoulder bump. while going through this procedure before you start charging cases you should always check to see if a.sized.case chambers easily. will save some frustration

 

[okie man]

If you load any volume at at you be happy to add a case prep tool, I have the Lyman case prep tool. So I tumble, size , tumble again to clean lube off, trim, run the case through the case prep machine. It cleans primer pocket, uniforms them , neck brush, outside deburr , then inside deburr, prime , charge and seat bullet

 

[midnightmalloy]

I would say the best jump in accuracy for me when going through the past 19 Year's of reloading was two things. Going to a chargemaster powder measure and buying the highest level components. Example is I can get a load to shoot in half the time with lapua brass and Berger bullets. I would also add a that setting up your dies and tools to be perfect the first time will make your life a lot easier. It's painstaking and arduous but it makes all the following steps easy.

 

[Bigeclipse]

I would say the best jump in accuracy for me when going through the past 19 Year's of reloading was two things. Going to a chargemaster powder measure and buying the highest level components. Example is I can get a load to shoot in half the time with lapua brass and Berger bullets. I would also add a that setting up your dies and tools to be perfect the first time will make your life a lot easier. It's painstaking and arduous but it makes all the following steps easy.

I do use Lapua brass. I am planning on loading with nosler accubonds and ballistic tips since my shots will be under 400 yards.

 

[midnightmalloy]

I do use Lapua brass. I am planning on loading with nosler accubonds and ballistic tips since my shots will be under 400 yards.

Awesome man. It looks like you are on your way. I see a lot of people using crappy components and expecting bench rest accuracy.