New to reloading what equipment do I need?

[huntoregon]

Hey guys, I have always had a buddy help me reload using his equipment. I want to get my own bench going and was hoping you guys could help me make a list of everything I will need to get going.

Will be loading rifles only for hunting purposes. 300win mag, .243, .308 and maybe .30-06


Obviously I will need a press
I already bought a RCBS digital scale
What kind or type of dies are preferred
I am just unsure about all the different things like brass tumblers, case prep tools or kits, powder tricklers, case trimmers etc...

Is there a particular starter kit that will get me most of what I need besides what needs to be selected for certain cartridges?

Basically I just would like a list of everything I will need to A to Z properly when reloading. Thanks for the help

 

[gohring3006]

Most companies have a starter kit. They all work well. You will need to clean and trim brass, so I would add those pieces. Once you get the hang of it, you will add and take away tools to make life easier..

 

[westcliffe01]

For low volume, a single stage press will be fine. You can later add a second press then you can decap / size in 1 station and seat the bullet in a second.

I went with a Hornady "Lock n Load" package, but you will have to order more of the bayonet bushings so that you have one for every die. A good quality scale is certainly important. Especially if you use stick powders (which tend to be more temperature stable) you will find that no "ordinary" powder measure will meter adequately. So I choose to dispense powder below target weight and trickle each charge on the scale to final weight. One day I guess I will get a "proper" powder dispenser with its own scale, when I am convinced that they work reliably enough...

You will need to decide what your strategy is going to be for sizing the shells. I do not full length size, I only use a body die, then neck size with a collet die which is only sold by lee. So I essentially use 3 dies for reloading: Body die, collet neck sizer (which will also decap) then seating die.

When you buy case/shell holders, make sure you get 2 of each size, that way you do not need to share shell holders with your hand priming tool, that gets annoying. I definitely prefer to seat primers with the hand tool than using a press.

If you load VLD or polymer tipped bullets, before you use the die, take it apart and insert a sample bullet into the seating insert. Look at how the tool makes contact with the bullet. If it does not touch the ogive, you may need to drill a relief hole into the insert so that the tip of the bullet never makes contact with the die. This can sometimes be a problem and may damage the tip of your fancy bullets and create all sorts of problems.

I don't have a particular preference for dies. People who reload for handguns gravitate toward carbide dies, but I have not had a need for them. Make sure to lubricate sizing dies, I roll a little grease onto the shell with my fingers. Too much and you can make dents into the shell if the grease accumulates in the die. Too little and brass will weld itself onto the die and score your cases and be a pain to remove from the inside of the die.

I went with a water/detergent + stainless pin tumbling setup. But you are cautioned to only run the cases as long as needed, not the hour or 2 hours that the maker recommends. Perhaps if you pick up oxidised range brass it may need more time, but then it is not your $1/shell precious brass....

Regarding the scale, be sure that you can run it off AC power and that it does not constantly go to sleep on you. Many of the battery powered scales do that and it can be very irritating to be turning on and re-zeroing the scale multiple times during a reloading session.

So, to summarize:
In an ideal world, get a powder dispenser with its own scale which will weigh out the charge.
Get 1 single stage press for each press operation (you can start with 1 and add more later)
Verify compatibility of the bullet seater with your actual bullets.
Get a digital caliper to measure case length
Get a case length trimming tool
Get an inside/outside chamfering tool
Get a hand primer seater.
Get at least 1 reloading manual which contains info on the cartridge specifications so you know to what length to trim them
Get a roll of small stickers to put into the cartridge holders with the load data
Keep a notepad with all of your load data and a cross reference to the cartridge holders so you know what is in them. Then you can take notes from your range trials in the same book for future reference.

 

[huntoregon]

Just out of curiosity, why the hand primer over using a press to insert them?

 

[FEENIX]

Hey guys, I have always had a buddy help me reload using his equipment. I want to get my own bench going and was hoping you guys could help me make a list of everything I will need to get going.

Will be loading rifles only for hunting purposes. 300win mag, .243, .308 and maybe .30-06


Obviously I will need a press
I already bought a RCBS digital scale
What kind or type of dies are preferred
I am just unsure about all the different things like brass tumblers, case prep tools or kits, powder tricklers, case trimmers etc...

Is there a particular starter kit that will get me most of what I need besides what needs to be selected for certain cartridges?

Basically I just would like a list of everything I will need to A to Z properly when reloading. Thanks for the help

Get yourself a reloading manual, it will highlight what you're looking for.

 

[westcliffe01]

With the hand primer you have a much better "feel" for the operation and with it being a totally separate piece of equipment, you can prime 100's of cases while watching your favorite show on TV or whatever it is that you do in the evening...

I have detected a primer going in sideways a couple of times, and every now and then it is not impossible to try to put a second primer in behind the first one if you are not concentrating. When using a press one is capable of putting a huge force on a primer, potentially enough to make it ignite, whereas the hand priming tool is limited to a much lower peak force so I think it is safer.

Just do not get in the habit of pointing the mouth of the cartridge towards yourself, else you might get quite a surprise if you did ever touch off a primer...

Just out of curiosity, why the hand primer over using a press to insert them?

 

[rcoody]

do a search on this website New to Reloading. This subject has been discussed many times. Lots of good information out there.

pretty much you need what you use at your buddies house if that is working for you

learning to reload is a journey.

 

[huntoregon]

do a search on this website New to Reloading. This subject has been discussed many times. Lots of good information out there.

pretty much you need what you use at your buddies house if that is working for you

learning to reload is a journey.

Well that's why I'm asking because my buddy doesn't have everything to properly do it I don't think. He has nothing to clean or prep brass, nothing to clean or prep primer pockets.

Basically we have just been measuring powder and pouring it in used dirty brass and stuffing a bullet in. No measuring case length and trimming and de-burring. Nothing.

 

[gohring3006]

Things I use.....
RCBS 5-0-5 Scale
A good press, I have three single stage presses. They all have a specific job. But I could get along easily with one.
I use cartridge specific Lee case length gauge and cutter head to trim my brass. These are cheap and work well.
RCBS kinetic bullet puller.
I have a old Rock polisher to tumble my brass.
A good powder funnel.
I have the a Lee Perfect Powder Measure and a Hornady Powder measure. The Hornady was three time as expensive as the Lee, and it doesn't work any better.
I use RCBS dies, I don't think any Die company is a bad choice.
RCBS stuck case remover is indespensable to me.
Get some cartridge boxes. And loading blocks.
Get a good caliper.
I have several other tools to help me along, but the ones listed will get you started making good stuff.

 

[westcliffe01]

If you look at what is in a Hornady "lock and Load" reloading kit, many of the items are there. But, for example, the powder funnel is plastic and tends to have a static charge. You are better off getting metal funnels which do not cling to powder granules. The scale is battery powered. If you get a crank style case trimmer with a carbide cutter, get one that has a micrometer adjustment for the length and a universal shell holder.

Here is the Hornady kit

Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic Single Stage Press Kit
Currently $310 at midway

Redding case trimmer with micrometer adjustment Redding 2400 Match Precision Case Trimmer

 

[westcliffe01]

Before using a powder measure, completely disassemble the drum portion and fully degrease everything. If there is just a tiny bit of lube on anything it will cause the granules to stick and clump. The same applies to any surface that the powder will come into contact with.

 

[rcoody]

Well that's why I'm asking because my buddy doesn't have everything to properly do it I don't think. He has nothing to clean or prep brass, nothing to clean or prep primer pockets.

Basically we have just been measuring powder and pouring it in used dirty brass and stuffing a bullet in. No measuring case length and trimming and de-burring. Nothing.

again I recommend that you search this website and read previous post. Lots of good information out there and lots of opinions.

I will walk you through what I do. I have it down to the essentials

starting with fired brass.

First thing I do is use a lee universal decapping die to remove the spent primers. I do this where during the cleaning process the primer pockets are cleaned.

Next I put them in my ultrasonic cleaner. A regular tumbler is much cheaper but doesn't clean the inside of the brass well or the primer pocket. lots of the benchrest guys just use a neck brush to clean their necks and a little steel wool to polish up the outside of their brass.

then I run them through a forster sizing die using imperial wax as my case lube. I use a co-ax press but the rockchucker will do the job.

then I throw them in the tumbler to remove case lube. you pick they are pretty much the same.

then I measure the overall length. (calipers) I don't trim brass until it needs it. At least 5 firings. I keep all the cases sorted by times fired and I trim all the cases in a group at the same time. That way they have uniform necks.

chamfer the necks. lots of tools out there just a little hand chamferer will work just fine to learn with.

then I clean the tumbling medium out of the primer pocket flash holes. If you notice residue in the primer pocket this is the time to clean them up. And prime them. any of the hand primers work fine to learn with.

I then charge the cases with powder and seat bullets. I use a forster seating die. They all work. I would get a lee perfect powder measure and a quality scale. (beam or digital) weigh charges till you get the powder measure throwing consistent charges.

a really simple process with tons of different tools to do the job.

 

[huntoregon]

again I recommend that you search this website and read previous post. Lots of good information out there and lots of opinions.

I will walk you through what I do. I have it down to the essentials

starting with fired brass.

First thing I do is use a lee universal decapping die to remove the spent primers. I do this where during the cleaning process the primer pockets are cleaned.

Next I put them in my ultrasonic cleaner. A regular tumbler is much cheaper but doesn't clean the inside of the brass well or the primer pocket. lots of the benchrest guys just use a neck brush to clean their necks and a little steel wool to polish up the outside of their brass.

then I run them through a forster sizing die using imperial wax as my case lube. I use a co-ax press but the rockchucker will do the job.

then I throw them in the tumbler to remove case lube. you pick they are pretty much the same.

then I measure the overall length. (calipers) I don't trim brass until it needs it. At least 5 firings. I keep all the cases sorted by times fired and I trim all the cases in a group at the same time. That way they have uniform necks.

chamfer the necks. lots of tools out there just a little hand chamferer will work just fine to learn with.

then I clean the tumbling medium out of the primer pocket flash holes. If you notice residue in the primer pocket this is the time to clean them up. And prime them. any of the hand primers work fine to learn with.

I then charge the cases with powder and seat bullets. I use a forster seating die. They all work. I would get a lee perfect powder measure and a quality scale. (beam or digital) weigh charges till you get the powder measure throwing consistent charges.

a really simple process with tons of different tools to do the job.

Thank you very much, I really appreciate the help!

 

[LoneTraveler]

The first things I would suggest is:
1. Get a couple reloading Books, Sierra, Hornady, Speer, Etc. for standard Jacket Bullets, One from Barnes if you are going to load their Mono bullets..
2. Get a 2 or 3 ring Note Book, With see through page protectors, Make a data sheet for each load. Keep good records, Of both Good Loads and Bad loads. ( You will want to repeat good loads, and remember not to repeat the ones that did not work for you.) Save targets in the book too for reference.
3. Labels, So you can mark each shell box with the load for reference.

Break down loading tasks to

CASE PREP. Decapping, Lubing, Sizing,Trimming, Champhering inside and out, And Flash hole uniforming on new and first time reloaded cases.

LOADING. Primer seating, Weighing powder, Funnel for powder, and Seating bullets.


A press capable of FL sizing, Accurate Dies, A accurate priming set up, A good set of scales, and an accurate dial caliper are foundation for safe accurate reloading. Many good suggestions for addon's have been suggested. Stay safe and Good Luck.