Reloading order and other questions

[Ben Keller]

I'm not new to reloading, but I would like some advice on everyone's reloading order and how they go from start to finish. I've got some decent equipment, Redding competition dies rcbs chargemaster for powder etc., but I am trying to lower my ES by seeing what others do in their process. Do you neck turn or not? Do you uniform the flash hole? Thanks for your help

 

[Canhunter35]

Depending on brass, but brass with punched flash holes greatly benefits from running a uniformer through. I use the k&m one and it works great. You only need the uniform the flash hole once.
I use the Sinclair primer pocket uniformer also, it will uniform along with clean the primer pocket.
Annealing can also really help your es.

The order I do it in:
Anneal(how often depends on cartridge, magnums i do every 2nd reloading, my 308 I'll go 3-4firings before annealling with no noticeable detrimental effects)
Tumble in corn cob media
Fl Resize
If required trim and bevel
If required uniform flash hole
Clean primer pocket using the uniformer.(I haven't found the primer pocket uniformer to actually improve results, but it's the easiest way to clean primer pockets imo)
Prime and reload
Hopefully that helps

 

[g0rd0]

1. inspect (for cracks, blown primers ect), 2. deprime 3. SS tumble 4. size then check length and trim if needed, 5, if needed anneal, 6. prime and then 7, charge and seat
I do 1 to 6 in batches but I charge and seat 1 at a time weighing each charge

 

[L.Sherm]

I anneal after every firing with my long range stuff, FL size with imperial sizing wax on the body and graphite on the necks. I also turn necks if nothing else to true them up depends on how much depending on brass. I find what powder and charge first it I'm working up a load and then seating depth to fine tune, and if I'm not getting the results I'm after I will change primers to see the difference. I dont tumble my cases unless they get pretty ugly because I think a little carbon inside the neck acts as lube, I brush the inside of the necks lightly before powder and and seating bullets. I also use a little bit of graphite on the necks before seating bullets.
I forgot to add I check the length after sizing and trim if necessary.

 

[turkn8r1]

Deprime. Tumble with stainless media, Resize and trim, Tumble in stainless media to remove lube and fingerprints, dry, chamfer, prime, charge, seat. Each step is done to the whole batch at a time. I also measure and charge each charge by hand and measure each round after the bullet is seated.

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

yes and yes -

i think turning is biggest step toward the low velocity spread

its expensive to buy bushing dies for every caliber , but you can just turn it be just over the size of your existing sizing dies , about .006 or so

when turning , the neck pilot being good fit helps , try a lee type trim kit for the case head type , to hold the brass to spin in the drill
https://leeprecision.com/cutter-lock-stud.html

you do not see results of concentricity until the firing after the first turn

 

[Ben Keller]

this is the majority of what I see so far for anyone else following.

1. Inspect for cracks and blown primers
2. Deprime the cases
3. Anneal, if you do
4. Tumble with either corn cob or SS pins
5. Full length resize
6. If required trim to size
7. MAYBE?? Tumble a second time
8. Chamfer and Debur
9. If required uniform the flash hole (only once)
10. Clean primer pocket
11. Brush inside case necks
12. Prime case
13. Charge case w/ powder
14. Seat the bullet
15. Weigh and measure for accuracy

Would you neck turn when you trim the brass or at a different time? and do you neck turn every time you reload the brass?

Thanks

 

[L.Sherm]

It depends, if your running a no turn neck chamber you can shoot new brass first then turn it seems to iron out the imperfections first. On my 6.5x300WSM I have to turn new brass after I neck down then after I shoot once I skim after the first firing. Then I'm done good to go.

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

Would you neck turn when you trim the brass or at a different time? and do you neck turn every time you reload the brass?

Thanks

I'd put turning right after deprime and before anneal

turning is also a sorting process .. you will find ones that dont make the cut .. pun intended