Reloading .20 Practical

Primary info for Google: Robert Whitley, AR-X, 20 Practical. He built my uppers in 20 Practical as well as Turbo 40 (6mm out of a 6.5 mm Grendel case).
 
I bought my 20 practical ar 15 upper from white oak armory. No problem and great upper
 
I had best luck with Tac and aa2520 in my savage model 12 rebarrel. I used new starline 223 brass that I necked down.

Curious if anyone used cci 400's for primers? I ask because no matter what powder I used, benchmark, n133, tac, and aa2520, I was getting massive cratering of the primers and eventually pierced primers at velocities around 3600, which seemed very low for that. I tried another bolt head and had the same thing. I tried cci 450's for the harder cup and they didn't crater as much but then I got misfires periodically. Seems like most of you are using the Remington 7 1/2s, is that the way to go?
 
I had best luck with Tac and aa2520 in my savage model 12 rebarrel. I used new starline 223 brass that I necked down.

Curious if anyone used cci 400's for primers? I ask because no matter what powder I used, benchmark, n133, tac, and aa2520, I was getting massive cratering of the primers and eventually pierced primers at velocities around 3600, which seemed very low for that. I tried another bolt head and had the same thing. I tried cci 450's for the harder cup and they didn't crater as much but then I got misfires periodically. Seems like most of you are using the Remington 7 1/2s, is that the way to go?
I have the same basic setup as yours and had the same issue. So I switched to the CCI #41 5.56 primers with better results. I'm now thinking of building a 20 PPC...
 
I have the same basic setup as yours and had the same issue. So I switched to the CCI #41 5.56 primers with better results. I'm now thinking of building a 20 PPC...
Great, I was starting to go crazy. I did have some luck with the win #41's and they did well with no cratering.
 
Where can I get step by step case forming and reloading instructions? It's been over 40 years since I reloaded anything and that was 44Mag which was about as easy as can get. Not sure where to start. Now I am de-capping and tumbling lots of brass that I have to get ready.
Maybe I should have bought a Ruger 204 barrel.
I don't think you will have much trouble with the 20 Practical (personally, I'm hoping 20PRC catches on for this cartridge). It is a bit more involved, as it is a wildcat at this point, but it is an easy one. I have a couple 204 Ruger bolt guns, but I think the 20 Practical has many advantages: 1st, I shoot this cartridge out of an AR15 platform, I think the 204 Ruger is a bit too long for the AR. Second, and most important, I went through the years long drought of 204 Ruger brass a few years ago, and I don't expect a drought of .223 brass unless everything else dries up. Lastly, I get 3650 fps with 40 grain Vmax bullets, with cheap, easy to find brass, powder and bullets. Also, accuracy is quite good, well under 1"
Personally, I full length size and decap a batch of .223 brass (usually mixed stamp range brass). I size the brass with the sizing button removed, in a regular .223 FL sizing die. This will neck the case down to .235" or so. Then I wet tumble the batch to clean it up. Then I trim to length, deburr as normal. I also trim the neck walls at this point to .012" but thats probably unnecessary. I also cut out the primer crimps at this point.
Once the brass is trimmed up, and clean, I run it through my Redding Type S sizing die with the proper neck sizing bushing (I think its .226" but I don't remember as I write this) and then the brass is ready to prime.
If I had to do it over again - I would have passed on the 204 Ruger. The 20 Practical is nearly as fast, much cheaper, just as accurate and a perfect match for an AR build.
 

Recent Posts

Back
Top