It's been awhile since I've reloaded and looking for refresher info. I use Hornady FL dies but don't remember how to neck size with them. Most of the fired casings feed into the rifle and the bolt closes no problem before I even try to resize them. What is the best way I should go about resizing them?
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Refresher in 7mmRM reloading
- Thread starter Walker1
- Start date
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I load 7mmRM with Hornady FL dies. These are pretty much the rules and how I do it.
* Belted magnum cases usually have a lot of space between the chamber shoulder and cartridge shoulder during the first firing. This is by design.
* I set the FL die up so that it does not contact the shell holder when the press cams over. It will only neck the cartridge and compress the sides. (Sometime this actually pushes the shoulder forward a little but usually not.
* It usually takes 2~3 firings before the shoulder is tight against the chamber shoulder after the brass springs back, after firing. This usually leads to tight chambering when you try to re-chamber the fired cartridge.
* One the above happens, I adjust the FL die further down until it pushes the cartridge shoulder back 2~3 thousands at most. Just want to set the shoulder back until the brass chambers easily.
* After that the brass, die, and chamber all all in sync and the cartridge is headspacing off the chamber instead of the belt. This lessens chances for case head separation on a belted cartridge. I can then shoot them until the primer pocket gets loose or the web expands until they won't chamber any more. How much and how quickly the web expands depends a lot on the headstamp on the brass.
To do this you need a tool for measuring the cartridge length at the shoulder. I use the Hornady Headspace Comparator for that.
* Belted magnum cases usually have a lot of space between the chamber shoulder and cartridge shoulder during the first firing. This is by design.
* I set the FL die up so that it does not contact the shell holder when the press cams over. It will only neck the cartridge and compress the sides. (Sometime this actually pushes the shoulder forward a little but usually not.
* It usually takes 2~3 firings before the shoulder is tight against the chamber shoulder after the brass springs back, after firing. This usually leads to tight chambering when you try to re-chamber the fired cartridge.
* One the above happens, I adjust the FL die further down until it pushes the cartridge shoulder back 2~3 thousands at most. Just want to set the shoulder back until the brass chambers easily.
* After that the brass, die, and chamber all all in sync and the cartridge is headspacing off the chamber instead of the belt. This lessens chances for case head separation on a belted cartridge. I can then shoot them until the primer pocket gets loose or the web expands until they won't chamber any more. How much and how quickly the web expands depends a lot on the headstamp on the brass.
To do this you need a tool for measuring the cartridge length at the shoulder. I use the Hornady Headspace Comparator for that.
You saying I need the Comparator for everything you just explained?
Yea pretty much. It's the tool needed to measure the case length at the shoulder. Knowing the case length at the shoulder is kinda critical to verify how much you have actually set the shoulder back. There are a few others but they tend to be more expensive.
The set is not super expensive and can be used with different size cartridges as well.
Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Ga 5 Bushing Set Comparator
Alternatively you could turn the die down 1/16 or 1/32 at a time, size the case and try to chamber it, and repeat until it just chambered. But I like to know the actual measurements of everything. That way I can measure a case with the comparator and know whether it will chamber or not without actually taking the time to chamber it.
The set is not super expensive and can be used with different size cartridges as well.
Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Ga 5 Bushing Set Comparator
Alternatively you could turn the die down 1/16 or 1/32 at a time, size the case and try to chamber it, and repeat until it just chambered. But I like to know the actual measurements of everything. That way I can measure a case with the comparator and know whether it will chamber or not without actually taking the time to chamber it.
Wow lol..
I just looked and I have one of those, I also have a neck sizing die that's never been used. Again it has been a few years since I've reloaded. I also have an a.o.l. gauge and modified case.. Now I just have to remember how to use them all
