So I've been reloading now for a few years and mostly self taught myself from reading books and the forums. My question is about cleaning brass. When I started, all the research I did was telling me to use stainless media and a tumbler. So I purchased a cheap rock tumbler from Harbor freight which I made a new container for with pvc pipe. It works pretty well and has served me well. It limits me to about 100 .308 cases and about 175 .223 cases. My usually way of reloading is I prep the brass first. Meaning I size and trim it then put it in the media. For most of my used military brass, I use imperial sizing wax, as I found it the best for the brass that is tough to size. The easier stuff, out of my bolt actions, Like 338 lapua or 6.5 creedmore, I've been using the Hornady one shot. I usually only neck size this brass, as it starts out new and has only been fired out of my gun. A problem I'm experiencing is the wax doesn't seem like it comes completely off of the brass with the stainless media, water, dish soap solution. Another problem I'm seeing as some of my brass is so dirty from the range, I need to clean it before I do any case prep as it's really dirty from the range/mud. So I'm asking you guys what is your method? I was thinking of cleaning all the brass first with the stainless media, doing my case prep, and then cleaning it again with an old style tumbler with a dry media like walnut. Seems like a lot of work as I'd have to decap first so I can get the primer pockets clean and that adds a few other steps to the reloading process. Recomendations please.
-
If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here
Recommendation on cleaning brass
- Thread starter giannid
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
g, the only item you've mentioned of concern is the pvc pipe. It's round inside, most wet tumblers are hexagonal or square inside which turn over the media/cases giving more cleaning action. I have a Frankfort Arsenal wet tumbler and the cases come out very clean, no Imperial wax at all on them.
ShtrRdy
Well-Known Member
Everybody has some method so I don't think there is a best way to do it.
My rifle brass gets the following:
For a group of brass to be used in the same rifle I use some fine steel wool to clean the firing residue off the outside of the neck. I'll then use a bronze brush and brush out the inside of the neck. If there's any dirt/grime on the outside of the case I'll clean it off. Then I'll go to work resizing the neck and decapping.
If the brass is looking pretty grungy I'll run it through a media tumbler/vibrator. After running a couple hours I'll remove the brass and wipe off the fine media dust before reloading.
For really, really, grungy rifle brass I'll knock out the primer and then run it through the stainless steel tumbler for 3-4 hours.
I've been using the lube pad approach with a water soluble case lube and after resizing the case I'll wipe the outside off with a wet rag. It doesn't seem to get all the lube off because I can "feel" something different than a totally clean case.
My rifle brass gets the following:
For a group of brass to be used in the same rifle I use some fine steel wool to clean the firing residue off the outside of the neck. I'll then use a bronze brush and brush out the inside of the neck. If there's any dirt/grime on the outside of the case I'll clean it off. Then I'll go to work resizing the neck and decapping.
If the brass is looking pretty grungy I'll run it through a media tumbler/vibrator. After running a couple hours I'll remove the brass and wipe off the fine media dust before reloading.
For really, really, grungy rifle brass I'll knock out the primer and then run it through the stainless steel tumbler for 3-4 hours.
I've been using the lube pad approach with a water soluble case lube and after resizing the case I'll wipe the outside off with a wet rag. It doesn't seem to get all the lube off because I can "feel" something different than a totally clean case.
You might also try washing grungy brass in hot soapy water before you start your tumbling. I do this with range pickup brass. Dawn detergent does a good job. I will sometimes do a second wash after tumbling and add a bit of citric acid before the final hot water rinse. Doesn't take much powdered citric acid to put a good sheen on the brass.
g0rd0
Well-Known Member
I have the FA wet tumbler. This is how I do it, decap (universal decaping die), then into the tumbler with SS pins, 1 tbls of dawn 1/2 tsp lemishine and enough hot water to cover the brass plus an extra inch, 3 hours tumbling then rinse with cold water air dry over night. Then I start the standard reloading process.
couesaddict
Well-Known Member
For what it's worth, I tried various medias in a tumbler and finally just went to braklean or gun scrubber and a rag. I use a primer pocket uniformer to clean that out and brush the inside of the necks. Works pretty good. If tarnished bad scotch bright will clean that up. I just didn't have the patience for a tumbler and they never seemed to come out that clean anyhow.
dsculley
Well-Known Member
If i get some brass that needs cleaning I use a sonic cleaner. Most of my cleaning consists of wiping the case off with a microfiber cloth, running a brush through the neck and cleaning the primer pocket.
Range brass aint free!!!! Take it from someone who has reloaded steel and aluminum cases as well as a lot of range brass. If in doubt throw it in the pail you put split necks, blown primer, stretched and phuckt up brass in to, heck crush it if it keeps you from digging it back out BTDT ;-) Heavily tarnished brass will split on the first fire =I don't waste my time with it anymore.
Having said that cleaning the brass before you reload it will let you see a few things you might other wise overlook. Cleaning the brass after resizing helps keep the dust off the brass that will stick like a magnet if you don't get the lube off.
A couple things that I've noticed with the stainless pins and Dawn/Lemshine is that it don't like nickel brass or the primers left in.
As for getting the wax off, Dawn and hot water has worked for me.
One last thought, I have noticed since I started using the stainless pins is that for some reason the bullet is sticking in the neck if left to sit for a while=unexplained pressure and velocity spikes. Hoping adding BhN to the bullets will solve this?
Having said that cleaning the brass before you reload it will let you see a few things you might other wise overlook. Cleaning the brass after resizing helps keep the dust off the brass that will stick like a magnet if you don't get the lube off.
A couple things that I've noticed with the stainless pins and Dawn/Lemshine is that it don't like nickel brass or the primers left in.
As for getting the wax off, Dawn and hot water has worked for me.
One last thought, I have noticed since I started using the stainless pins is that for some reason the bullet is sticking in the neck if left to sit for a while=unexplained pressure and velocity spikes. Hoping adding BhN to the bullets will solve this?
Last edited:
For my precision rifle I resize, wash in hot water with dish soap, triple rinse, soak in Iosso brass cleaner for 2 minutes, triple rinse then lay out on a towel. I roll the brass around on the towel then put in a wire mesh basket next to the dehumidifier fan, usually dry in a hour or two.
Chris
Chris
I have a rebel 17 tumbler which is phenomenal. I used standard stainless media with dawn, lemishine and hot water. Typically I pop primers and throw them in for 2-3 hours depending on level of dirtiness. Once done I rinse in cold water throw in baking sheet and put in oven at 170 for an hour. Then I neck bushing size, trim and chamfer. There is a ton of good ways that all achieve the same goal. Best of luck
Buckskinner
Well-Known Member
I think people go way overboard cleaning brass, I used to be there as well. I don't bother anymore, prior to sizing I run over it with fine steel wool, clean the pocket and good to go. Shines it right up.
No need beating the hell out of your brass in a tumbler and I learned that a little carbon in the neck is too good to waste...
No need beating the hell out of your brass in a tumbler and I learned that a little carbon in the neck is too good to waste...
Perhaps but to each their own. Never tried the steel wool thing but I am sure it does the job. To me that is to time consuming. I load in batches of atleast 100 rnds. Much quicker to me to throw them in a tumbler and let it do the work than scrubbing each piece of brass. Some people clean brass to make it pretty which is cool but I like to clean it for 1) easier to see any damage in a bright light with magnifier and 2) I am ensuring I am not putting any junk in my dies or chamber. There are a ton of ways to skin a cat but I am very methodical with reloading and the more stuff I do to my brass, the more time I am in my gun room hitting the kegorator lol.
Last edited:
Buckskinner
Well-Known Member
Only takes about 3 seconds per piece, I do it as I am examining each piece so no extra time at all. Probably takes less time than tumbling and I have no worries about stuck pins or media, don't have to dry, don't have to sort from media, etc. Probably is a more methodical method than tumbling, but I'm not loading for mag dumps either.
