Reberraling

[Upandcomer]

I'll be honest, I'm what I'd consider to be a fairly green shooter. However i am my biggest critic...take that whatever way you like.

So my dumb question, in my opinion, does anyone have any experience with rebarreling a 22/250? I love the caliber and its potential however my problem is the slow twist on my A-bolt, 1/14". Due to the twist its hard to weight up rounds for long shots. I love the gun but is it worth it to rebarrel or just start from scratch? Keep in mind one cannot get an Abolt and i don't really think the xbolt is the way i want to go

 

[AZShooter]

There are many comments on the net about Browning using red loctite and the difficulty in removing the barrel without damaging the receiver. A few did say they got the barrel off but many said they ruined the action. Some even said the action threads were removed with the barrel!

IMO It is not the end of the world if you cannot shoot bullets heavier than 55 grains. Many of us used our 22-250s for decades before faster twist and heavier bullets made the scene.

 

[ShtrRdy]

I recently had a 22-250 rebarreled. It is a Tikka Varmint that originally had a 1-14" twist barrel on it. I had the same question in my mind as you. In the end I decided that I liked the explosive effects of the faster lighter bullet and that I had a 6mm Creedmoor with fast twist for a long range, light bullet, rifle. So I went with a 1-12" twist on the 22-250 and am now shooting a 60 grain bullet.

You'll have to decide on your own what you really want to do with that rifle. If you don't have any real connection with the 22-250 cartridge I would have it rebarreled as a 6mm Creedmoor or something else that better suited for long range.

 

[MagnumManiac]

I run a stock 1:14" twist 22-250 and a 1:7" twist 22-250AI, the latter is my 300-600 F-class rifle.
I can, and do, use the 22-250 to 600 as well. You just need to choose the right bullet. I use the Sierra 53g pill for this.
There is a guy at my range that uses a 1:12" twist 223 to 1000, unsure of the bullet he uses, but it is a Sierra also.
I should have gone with a 1:8", the bullets lighter than 77g don't like being spun so fast in the 7" twist.

Cheers.

 

[Idaho Lefty]

When I burn out, my current, 1-14 TW, Rem M-700, in .22-250 Rem,..
I WILL go to, a .22-250 AI ( I Hate Trimming, STRETCHED Brass ! ) with a 1-9 Twist bbl. to shoot, 55's up to the 73 grain, Berger's and 75 Hornady HP's, nothing "Bigger" is needed for me, as I have,.. a 6 XC for, that !
And I will GO with, a RemAge, Criterion barrel, AGAIN on my Rem 700, Short action.

 

[DJ Fergus]

I would recommend going back with a 22 creedmoor. You can do a 22-250AI if you don't mind fire forming, or you can just go back with a regular 22-250. Either of the latter two will need some extra freebore for long heavy bullets. I just went with the 22 creedmoor because the reamers are already spec for long heavy bullets and I can buy 22 creedmoor ammo or 22 creedmoor cases ready to go without having to do anything extra to the brass.

 

[Idaho Lefty]

ONE, medium load with, a 55 grainer shot at, a Sage Rat and BINGO,.. "Fireformed" !
Fast Twist, heavy Boolitz, will, wear out, .22 Creed Barrels,.. FAST !
Got my 6XC for,.. "Distance" and pretty "good", barrel Life.

 

[jrock]

Maybe buy another gun more suited for LR shooting and keep the 22-250 for close up shots.

 

[Idaho Lefty]

In, a 1-14 Twist, shoot the SHORTER Bullets,.. under, .775 Long !
Most all, Boat Tail, 50's, 52's, 53's and 55 Flat Bases,.. will work fine !
No, 53 gr Horn. V-Maxes or, the Nosler 55 gr. Bal Tips in the 1-14 ( 1-12 TW is best for, them )
The 55 NBT's are .815 long and would NOT, "shoot" in the Winter, for me.
Cold Powder = less Velocity for, a "Marginal" Bullet in the Winter !
So I went with, the Sierra 60 grain, Flat Based, Varminter for Coyotes ( with 38.5 grains of IMR 4350, a sub 1/2 MOA load )
And, the 55 gr. Berger FB Varmints shoot, in ONE Hole for me.

 

[adam32+P]

There are many comments on the net about Browning using red loctite and the difficulty in removing the barrel without damaging the receiver. A few did say they got the barrel off but many said they ruined the action. Some even said the action threads were removed with the barrel!

IMO It is not the end of the world if you cannot shoot bullets heavier than 55 grains. Many of us used our 22-250s for decades before faster twist and heavier bullets made the scene.

If a gunsmith ruins the action getting the barrel off then he shouldn't be a gunsmith.

Rebarrel with a 1/8 or a 1/7 with the same contour as factory and rock on.

 

[MagnumManiac]

The OP doesn't mention what ranges he wants to shoot at, but a standard twist 22-250 is good for 600 or more with RIGHT bullet.
I have personally killed rabbits at 880 in ZERO WIND with a 55g Ballistic Tip doing 3770fps at the muzzle.
I just don't see an issue with the standard twist and long shots. Use a good ballistic app, like Ballistic AE, and a good scope and there isn't an issue.

Cheers.

 

[shinbone]

A little off topic, but, if you like the A-Bolt, how can you not like the X-Bolt?

 

[HaroldNRAEndowment]

There are many comments on the net about Browning using red loctite and the difficulty in removing the barrel without damaging the receiver. A few did say they got the barrel off but many said they ruined the action. Some even said the action threads were removed with the barrel!

IMO It is not the end of the world if you cannot shoot bullets heavier than 55 grains. Many of us used our 22-250s for decades before faster twist and heavier bullets made the scene.

There could be different model numbers of Loc-Tite with the same color, but that being said, generally the Red Loc-Tite is considered a permanent thread locker and the only way to unscrew the threads is to put it into an oven and cook/burn it out. That does raise some questions in my mind as far as how hot and how does that effect the barrel. Again, there are different model numbers for the thread locker compounds and I would contact the manufacturer on how to remove the barrel. The application is very important for each model of thread locker which is designed for different size of threads. The bigger the thread the more surface contact of the glued surface which translate into higher forces to unscrew. My initial thought was that it should be proportional so a larger thread can take more torque so it would not matter. Apparently the holding force of the thread locker is not proportional. I had asked a Loc-Tite salesman about using the removeable Blue Loc-Tite on 2-inch pipe thread. That particular Blue Loc-Tite was made for small screws, maybe up to 3/8", if my memory serves me like it should . The Response was that putting Blue Loc-Tite made for small screws on the much larger pipe thread is equivalent to putting permanent thread locker on it and would not be able to unscrew it if needed. I would contact the gun manufacturer and find out the details of removing the barrel.

 

[nksmfamjp]

I love the caliber and its potential however my problem is the slow twist on my A-bolt, 1/14". Due to the twist its hard to weight up rounds for long shots. I love the gun but is it worth it to rebarrel or just start from scratch?

Not sure who to talk to up north. You need a real gunsmith. There are lots of guys doing the Remington, Winchester, Customs & Savage..... then the herd thins. I would find a guy who knows those actions.

I know a guy who will work on any decent bolt action I think. He will make it work. He lives south of you in the USA. I don't know the trick.... heat, big wrenches, etc.

The other thing about a Jack of all trades hunting rifle gunsmith is they will be able to do the trigger work and anything else special a Browning needs.

22-250 would benefit from a faster twist. You could shoot those bullets they run in the 224 Valkyrie! Better check the mag length.