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Rebarreling for suppressor?

tokatee

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
111
Hi All.
I m going to rebarrel a rem. 700, 300 wsm. I have an omega waiting on paper work.
My plan is to have a Krieger light target cut to 22", 5r, and fluted to reduce the over a!l weight slightly.
Do you who use suppressors think it will have enough ridgedness to not have, or have little poi change, will be shooting 200 and 208 hornady ,hopefully.
Also pros and come to having the barrel maker do all the work?
 
Yep that should be fine, but know that every can/barrel function differently together. Looking at it, with a taper down to .750, you should have enough to thread it 5/8-24, and still be stiff enough so there isn't excessive whip. The Omega isn't overly heavy, which is nice.

I'll throw in my personal preference, and that is to not have any barrel beyond 20" if I'm going to have a can attached. By the time you add 7-8" on the end, you are working with 30", and the balance point can get a ways out there (and thus difficult to carry). Everyone has their own preference, but even my 338 Lapua is chopped to 20". My unsolicited .02.
 
I have a 21" krieger #17 contour, thats 1.05" at the muzzle. My POI shifts two moa with the can on.

I wouldnt, and dont, worry about whether or not a supressor will affect my Poi. Screw it on, re-zero, and get to work.
 
There is some with more experience then me but I'll contribute.

I also have an omega and it's lighter then most, but still heavy enough to change the harmonics. The changes are usually repeatable and easily dialed for. I'd imagine you could tune a load to impact close to the same poi with or without a can. I never shoot without a can tho, so I don't usually worry about where it hits when it's not attached.
 
are you going to direct thread or mount the ASR brake? I have an Omega and use it on almost every rifle I own. I would try to get closer to .800 at the muzzle so there is some meat and a nice firm shoulder to thread against. I had my 21" 300WM threaded 9/16-24 and used the ASR mount because at around .700, my smith didn't like how shallow the threads would be. If I was to rebarrel for that rifle, I'd go 22", sendero contour with deep flutes and 5/8-24 threads, 1-9" twist.
 
Yes Sir.
I'm thinking when the light target is cut to 22" it will be close to .80? With the WSm, the 10 twist has been doing great with the 200& 208 probable don't need heavier ,getting good accuracy and velocity,shot my elk in 15 at 900,750 yd. head shot to finish.
That was with a SPS.barreled action in BC.stock. But if I want to play with 212 gr. maybe 9.5 twist? Getting 2950 out of 23". with 200's.Something to think about? Going to stay with standard chamber.
Thank you all for your replays.
 
Sorry forgot the mounting guestion,I'm thinking I will try direct thread and quick mount,see if one way gives better accuarcy. Will also be using ..it on several 308' s and 223' s
 
Yes Sir.
I'm thinking when the light target is cut to 22" it will be close to .80? With the WSm, the 10 twist has been doing great with the 200& 208 probable don't need heavier ,getting good accuracy and velocity,shot my elk in 15 at 900,750 yd. head shot to finish.
That was with a SPS.barreled action in BC.stock. But if I want to play with 212 gr. maybe 9.5 twist? Getting 2950 out of 23". with 200's.Something to think about? Going to stay with standard chamber.
Thank you all for your replays.

.750" at the muzzle would be my minimum as already noted, so yours would be perfect IMHO.

IIWY, I would re-barrel it to 1:9" or faster and take advantage of the heavier high BC offerings. Berger change their twist recommendation for 215 from 1:10" to an optimum of 1:9" a little over a year ago. Some bullet manufacturer's like Hammer Bullets are recommending 1:8" on their .308 cal heavy bullets to maximize its potential.

I have a 27" Lilja 1:9" 3G .830" at the muzzle on my .30 Lara and sports an Eliteiron Bravo suppressor; it will primarily propel the Berger 215/230, Hornady 212/220/225, etc ...

Good luck!
 
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