Re barrel a Win 70

[kstitz]

I am thinking about re barreling my model 70 feather weight 300wsm. I am going to have it beded and my replace the wood stock with synthetis one but I have not decided due to the only option for my model is a McMillian and they are quite pricey.

This is the rifle that I use for long hikes so I do not want to increase the weight of the rifle. I thought about changing it to 7wsm but with the brass shortages that does not seem like a good idea.

I usually shoot the 180 Accubonds and will likely stick with those bullets. This is at most a 600yd hunting rifle.

I am new to this so what barrel manufacturer & specs would you recommend?

 

[rafterfp]

24 inch proof, get an MCM A2 from Midwest industries ( about 275$ ) and chamber in
6.5 PRC

 

[kstitz]

This is mainly an elk rifle so I prefer nothing smaller then .284. I am fine sticking with the 300wsm.

 

[MudRunner2005]

Chamber it in 7mm SS (Sherman Shortmag) with a Proof 1:8 twist 26" barrel.

 

[HARPERC]

A lot of good barrel makers out there currently. I have a Bartlein on order as my next one.
I'd call around to see if any body had what I wanted in stock, if not how long of a wait.
1-10" twist has worked in .30 for a long time, the 180 Accubond will certainly work with it. Bullets are getting long, especially the mono's, I'd get at least a 1-9", and a 1-8" wouldn't be out of the realm of possibilities.

 

[Kimber7man]

If the 300 WSM shoots to your satisfaction, I'd leave it as is.
IMO you'd spend the same amount of money to rebarrel and bed in a cheap synthetic stock, vs bedding in a great carbon fiber stock like a McMillan with edge fill.

 

[BallisticsGuy]

Leave it how it is.

 

[kstitz]

It used to shoot great with factory Winchester ammo that I have shot since 2004. Last year with same ammo it would shoot good at 100 but probably only 3" groups at 200. It shot a little better with Nosler ammo but still did not group like it used to. I started reloading last year so I am going to try a couple loads & see if i can get it dialed in.

Do you think it would be worth anything to have it bedded in the original wood stock?

 

[BallisticsGuy]

Bedding properly can't hurt. If the barrel is burned I'd be surprised. Most guys will take a few shots a year, maybe a box or two tops with those shoulder bustin' beasts. It's really uncommon to see one that's not plinked with have a worn out barrel.

If the bullet's composition may have changed over the years it might be worth it to deep clean and re-foul the barrel. 3" at 200yards isn't that bad for a hunting gun either.

 

[kstitz]

Bedding properly can't hurt. If the barrel is burned I'd be surprised. Most guys will take a few shots a year, maybe a box or two tops with those shoulder bustin' beasts. It's really uncommon to see one that's not plinked with have a worn out barrel.

If the bullet's composition may have changed over the years it might be worth it to deep clean and re-foul the barrel. 3" at 200yards isn't that bad for a hunting gun either.

Its the 180 AB so I do not think the bullet has changed. I do know that it used to shoot much better then it does now. Before I do anything I will deep clean it and see what happens.

 

[Axl]

also might be worth checking your action screws and base/ring screws.

Hornady is making 7mm wsm brass

 

[Capt RB]

Pillar bed your wood stock. That rifle likes a bit of forend pressure due to the lightweight whippy barrel. You can check where with a soot test orchaulk the barrel channel or whatever method you choose to see where and how much contact. I believe it is 1" just behind the Schnabel portion If you do not have contact. Take a matchbook cut the cover off just above the striker strip and lay in the channel. Fold till the groups start to grow again. That is the amount of pressure needed. You can leave that there, put bedding compound there to the same height. One way I achieved that was using dowel and a shim of the right height. Glue/epoxy the shim a bit proud so I could sand out later with the dowel. The epoxy will fix any wood swelling and it is the right material for the harmonics.