RCBS Chargemaster 1500 - Power conditioner ?

[Varmint Hunter]

I've been using an RCBS Chargemaster 1500 for several years now and rarely have had any issues with it, but I've got a few questions.

1. Is there any real advantage to using a power conditioner, like a Tripp-Lite? Are they worth the extra $275? (All of my lighting is currently LED)

2. Often I hear guys say that they let the Chargemaster "warm up". Is this really necessary? How long do some of you warm up your Chargemaster and for how long? Have you seen this make a difference?

 

[BillLarson]

Depending on your wiring situation.... it could be invaluable.....
I have my A&D 120i wired from breaker box to voltage conditioner ...
It,s the only thing on that line.
I believe it gives more consistent readings,to weighing powder to .02/100ths. Per grain...

 

[claybreaker]

I've been using an RCBS Chargemaster 1500 for several years now and rarely have had any issues with it, but I've got a few questions.

1. Is there any real advantage to using a power conditioner, like a Tripp-Lite? Are they worth the extra $275? (All of my lighting is currently LED)

2. Often I hear guys say that they let the Chargemaster "warm up". Is this really necessary? How long do some of you warm up your Chargemaster and for how long? Have you seen this make a difference?

As to #1
For me I would not spend the $275 on the power conditioner. If I was going to spend that kind of addition money on "powder measurement" I would be looking at an A&D or something in that class

For #2
I also use a Chargemaster 1500. Mine is definitely more stable after a 30-45 minute "warmup" period. Specifically if I do NOT warm it up it is not uncommon for me to need to rezero after 30 minutes or so, as "0" will read ("drift" is the electronic term) 0.1 or 0.2.

 

[C.O. Shooter]

I'm not calling BS, but has any of this been proven? Not certain how one would go about that. Definitely above my pay grade.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

As to #1
For me I would not spend the $275 on the power conditioner. If I was going to spend that kind of addition money on "powder measurement" I would be looking at an A&D or something in that class

Most of the shooters who use an A&D or similar equipment are more likely to add a power conditioner, IMO. The you have both costs.

For #2
I also use a Chargemaster 1500. Mine is definitely more stable after a 30-45 minute "warmup" period. Specifically if I do NOT warm it up it is not uncommon for me to need to rezero after 30 minutes or so, as "0" will read ("drift" is the electronic term) 0.1 or 0.2.

I've got to look more closely for this. I have only rarely noticed a zero shift.

 

[59FLH]

Not on a scale, but chased coupling problems for months on Chronographs, opening and closing the door, the claxon alarm befor firing, even loading and unloading tripped the detectors and gave false triggering. Put two Tripp-Lite isolation transformers in line and like magic, problem solved. I believe.

 

[just_jon]

I use a Tripp Lite 600W with my 1500. I get my electricity from a rural co-op and get frequent over-voltage incidents. I made the purchase after having a chargemaster lite and FA Intellidropper both go whacky.

Amazon product ASIN B00006B83G

 

[Pdvdh]

I use a Tripp Lite 600W with my 1500. I get my electricity from a rural co-op and get frequent over-voltage incidents. I made the purchase after having a chargemaster lite and FA Intellidropper both go whacky.

Amazon product ASIN B00006B83G

Did the Tripp Lite eliminate the weird stuff you had experienced?

 

[just_jon]

Did the Tripp Lite eliminate the weird stuff you had experienced?

It did.

 

[Kentuckywindage]

I use a Tripp Lite 600W with my 1500. I get my electricity from a rural co-op and get frequent over-voltage incidents. I made the purchase after having a chargemaster lite and FA Intellidropper both go whacky.

Amazon product ASIN B00006B83G

I just purchased the RCBS Chargemaster Lite a month or so ago. Is it not a go machine? I've had a couple of over and under but nothing else.

 

[just_jon]

It's a good scale. Best part is that you can have it serviced should the need ever arise.

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[Deputy819]

I'm in the same situation as @just_jon ! The electricity in my rural area is "dirty" and also frequently shuts off and on for some unknown reason…..sometimes 3-4 times per week. It's a real headache. I wasn't about to let the power company ruin my A&D FX120i so I have the Tripp Lite 1800 between the scale and the outlet. It cleans up the power and also protects from surges and other stupid stuff.

1800W 120V Power Conditioner with Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR), AC Surge Protection, 6 Outlets | Eaton

Ideal for computers, routers, modems and home theater components Corrects under- and overvoltages in 89V–147V range Protects against spikes with 1440 joules of surge suppression Monitors power status with front-panel diagnostic LEDs Features 6 5-15R rear outlets

www.tripplite.com

 

[Buffalobwana]

Mine tends to gravitate towards zero if a charge is left in the pan, or, if the pan is off the scale for extended periods of time (negative weight).

I have seen it move .3 of a grain over 10-15 min time in the above conditions.

I know exactly how much my pan weighs, so if I pull it off to charge a case and it's off by any amount, I just zero it again.

I do usually let it warm up. Not sure if it helps, but I think it might.

 

[OldElkHunter1961]

I've used a Charge Master 1500 for a dozen years. A fine tool.

It's plugged directly into the wall which is supplied by our Rural Electric Association here in very rural Wyoming. Yes, our power is less than ideal.

I've never "warmed up" my Charge Master nor performed any ritualistic dances, sage ceremonies or uttered secret incantations. No, I do not wear a head-dress either.

It's accuracy is reflected in uniform velocities and narrow SD's on my home range.

Has it gone a bit squirrely on a couple rare occasions? Yes. After the exorcism all was well.