Questions about bedding a Mauser

[atl5029]

Hi guys,

I am getting ready to bed a custom BRNO VZ-24 Mauser, and I have a few questions that I have been wondering about and on which I often hear differing opinions. I have bedded a couple other rifles in my time - both were military type rifles with bottom metal (Springfield 1903-A3 and a M91/30 Mosin Nagant) - and both came out pretty good. Both were also just general hunting rifles, not long range guns. My long range gun was professionally bedded.

This VZ-24 is also just a general hunting rifle not intended to be shot out past 500 yards very often, but I'm trying to do a better job than the other two. It has an $85 30-06 Shaw barrel from Brownells. Reviews were all 5 stars with reports of MOA accuracy, so it was worth a shot, right? I'm bedding it in a Boyds laminate stock in Devcon Plastic Steel. I'll be running one of the new 4-12x Diamondback Tactical scopes on it.

OK, here are my questions:

1. Are pillars really necessary on a hunting rifle of this type? My smith seems to think pillars are pretty much overkill on a hunting rifle when it is bedded well. Will they make much of a difference in a laminate stock with Plastic Steel bedding?

2. Where, if anywhere, should you relieve around the metal when you bed a rifle of this type? I have often seen people relieve along the sides of the tang. The wood to metal fit of this stock as it is now is pretty good - the action fits tightly within the stock when you torque the action screws to spec and there isn't any space between the wood and metal.

3. Is bedding the bottom metal necessary, or does it make worlds of difference?

As usual, thanks for the help!

 

[Georgiashooter]

I would say pillars are at least 50% of a good bedding job. If you don't have pillars, the stock material can still compress under the bottom metal. Bedding the bottom metal isn't necessary if you use pillars. You want pillars to keep stock material from compressing, bed the action in a manner to be stress free.

 

[codyadams]

My father has 2 small ring 98 masers, 1 in 8mm-06 and the other in 6.5x55. Both are fully bedded, the entire way back, and both shoot outstanding. His long range rig, the 6.5x55, shoots spectacular, averaging under half MOA.

In my mind, there is no reason not to pillar bed. If you research how to do it, you can make your own pillars and bedding kit with a quick trip to the hardware store. And if you look at the process, it is almost literally the same amount of work. The extra time put in is very little, and then you know your action is bedded the best it can be.

Is it necessary to shoot MOA? No. Is pillar bedding better than not? Yes. So right there is your answer.

I made my father a stock for a 1913 03-A3 Springfield with a douglas premium barrel chambered in 35 Whelen Ackley Improved, bedding is similar to a maser. This gun is shooting 225's at 2900 fps, and with that kind of recoil, it's good to know the bedding was done right.

Anything worth doing is worth over-doing.

 

[Bullet bumper]

With the fixed Mauser recoil lug you allow for clearance at the front and sides of the recoil lug . No clearance under the lug as the action screw pulls the lug down into the recess and if it has any clearance like a Rem 700 would have the stock is bent . Slight relief around the edge of the tang is common but how much good it really does in a front locker is debatable .
If you don't allow recoil lug clearance as above you risk breaking the bedding near the lug as it comes out . If it's sealed all the way in the suction plus friction plus grip can be substantial and I have seen a few broken stocks .
Stress free is definitely right but it takes knowledge to do it right . There is several ways to install pillars .

 

[atl5029]

OK, here is a follow up question - on the Mauser 98 actions, the front of the action essentially has a pillar. According to this Brownells video on bedding Mauser acitons, it seems a front pillar is redundant.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hf_SHBMhScs

Have those of you who have pillar bedded a Mauser done the same? Rear pillar only?

 

[Bullet bumper]

If I am going to use the original military bottom metal I machine the front pillar off the bottom metal and the dimple off the lug or you can leave the dimple if the thread is shallow . This allows you to use two new larger pillars attached directly to the action and set the pillars in using the original inlet position . Put a tape roll around the barrel so it all sits in the original inlet position just nice without tilting . With pillars slightly longer than needed attached to the action epoxy only the pillars and hold the action down with tape or elastic cords . No screw pressure . When the epoxy is nearly hard but not full hard undo the screws holding the pillars on and remove the tape and action . Clean up any excess in the wrong place or on the action then refit the action with the screws and only semi tighten to keep it all straight but not fully tight . Leave 24 hours to harden .
Remove the action and using a case trimmer head in a drill , machine off the excess length of the pillars down to flush with the stock inlet so the bottom metal sits square and flush as it did before .
Then you have two solid contact points that will position the action in the same original position to continue the rest of the hog out and bedding .
That video is garbage and the results shown are garbage . Leaving 24 hours before pulling apart could be dangerous and you could get a really stuck action .