I hope I am in the correct area! To post this. As this is my first post! If not I apologize in advance. I just bought a new Winchester model 70 Ultimate Shadow! I am trying to take the barreled action of the stock! So I can get to the trigger adjustment screws! As the trigger is very hard to pull! I removed the two screws, that hold the bottom assembly, to the stock! I removed the bottom assembly with ease! I then attempted to remove the barreled action, from the stock! It will not come loose! I can not find any other bolts or screws, up in side the stock! That would keep it from coming out! I am pretty sure the recoil lug is stuck! I read that Winchester, is using some type of bedding compound! To seat the barreled action, into the stock! I worked the barrel, and action pretty good! But am still unable to free it up. Is there something I am missing? Or is it just stuck in the bedding compound? If that is the case how do I get it loose? If I do get it loose! When I resemble, should I seat it back in the bedding compound? Or can I remove the compound completely? If I remove the compound! Should I replace it? Or just reassemble without it? Thank you in advance! For your help!
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Problem taking apart winchester model 70
- Thread starter thanman
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Lefty7mmstw
Well-Known Member
Winchester puts a gob of bedding goop at the front of the action and it can make things difficult to get apart. With my coyote 25wssm I had to use a rubber mallet and someone holding the rifle's stock to get it apart. The next step would have been a good cold soak in the deep freeze. The will usually pop things apart with a bit of effort afterwards. A final step is to cut the stock away from the action and replace it, but you usually don't need to go there unless you really mess up an epoxy bedding job and need to work on things...
squeezenhope
Well-Known Member
I doubt you have a serious problem. Try one or both of the following. Put the butt of stock on the floor and hit the bottom of the barrel a couple of good licks with a big rubber mallet. If that does not work put it in a vise, remove the bolt and insert a 1/2 '" dowel from the rear of the receiver…insert all the way to the chamber. Use the rod to exert upward force at the same time someone else taps the barrel with the rubber mallet. This method will free the action by bringing it straight up.
thanman, if it's new, send it back and make the retailer do it. You shouldn't have to do a repair on a new rifle. I do often need to use the rubber mallet to pop the action out of a newly bedded stock though. Concerning the adjustment of the trigger, perhaps a competent smith should do it. Triggers are not something to tackle unless you are sure you know exactly what to do. Many triggers which are claimed to be adjustable are not very adjustable. Most licensed smiths will do a trigger job very reasonably. Safety first. Good luck
FearNoWind
Well-Known Member
When an action is bedded it is not uncommon for the barrel/action assembly to be difficult to remove from the stock.
If it's done correctly, the bedding material encircles the recoil lug tightly - but it shouldn't adhere to the lug.
I find that a good sharp tap on the barrel with a rubber mallet often does the job of loosening it up so that it can be lifted and I would endorse the idea of using a large dowel as a "handle" to raise the action as you lift up on the barrel. The helps keep everything on the same plane while lifting.
Be sure to lift straight up; without putting more lift on either end of the barrel/action assembly. A good bedding job isn't going to allow you to raise the assembly up at an angle.
If it's done correctly, the bedding material encircles the recoil lug tightly - but it shouldn't adhere to the lug.
I find that a good sharp tap on the barrel with a rubber mallet often does the job of loosening it up so that it can be lifted and I would endorse the idea of using a large dowel as a "handle" to raise the action as you lift up on the barrel. The helps keep everything on the same plane while lifting.
Be sure to lift straight up; without putting more lift on either end of the barrel/action assembly. A good bedding job isn't going to allow you to raise the assembly up at an angle.
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It isvery tight. I managed to separate it by firmly grabbing the stock and repeatedly working the barrel up and down using short stokes. Grab the fully opened bolt and apply moderate upward pressure while working the barrel. It took a while but the recoil lug will work it's way out of the very tight recess. When you put the action back in use the same up and down movement with the barrel while applying downward pressure to the receiver. When seated, tighten the quard screws to 40 inch/pounds and it will be well bedded.
sable tireur
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2010
- Messages
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thanman,
Generally this type of bedding will apply some form of stress to the recoil lug and therefore to the barreled action. Stress imparted to any part of the rifle system results in inconsistency and inaccuracy. And needless to say you have to fight to get the barreled action out of the stock when it is completely unnecessary. There is never any sense to beating a barreled action out of a properly bedded stock, wood or synthetic.
The back of recoil lug (the flat surface of lug closest to the receiver) should fit flush against the glass bedding. The sides, bottom and front should have clearance between it and bedding. Find some good plastic adhesive tape. Electrical tape will do. If you do not know the thickness of the tape, cut a couple small lengths. Stack two together and measure thickness with a micrometer until you find the number of layers needed to achieve 0.01 inch thickness. Tape the sides, front and bottom of recoil lug to 0.01 inch clearance. Do not tape the back of recoil lug.
Many times we use a plastic tape found in the plumbing department of a hardware store which is labeled '10 mil'. This works great but so will many of the masking type tapes also. Always be sure to coat all surfaces with release agent or the KIWI shoe polish so frequently mentioned, before applying bedding compound.
Regards.
Generally this type of bedding will apply some form of stress to the recoil lug and therefore to the barreled action. Stress imparted to any part of the rifle system results in inconsistency and inaccuracy. And needless to say you have to fight to get the barreled action out of the stock when it is completely unnecessary. There is never any sense to beating a barreled action out of a properly bedded stock, wood or synthetic.
The back of recoil lug (the flat surface of lug closest to the receiver) should fit flush against the glass bedding. The sides, bottom and front should have clearance between it and bedding. Find some good plastic adhesive tape. Electrical tape will do. If you do not know the thickness of the tape, cut a couple small lengths. Stack two together and measure thickness with a micrometer until you find the number of layers needed to achieve 0.01 inch thickness. Tape the sides, front and bottom of recoil lug to 0.01 inch clearance. Do not tape the back of recoil lug.
Many times we use a plastic tape found in the plumbing department of a hardware store which is labeled '10 mil'. This works great but so will many of the masking type tapes also. Always be sure to coat all surfaces with release agent or the KIWI shoe polish so frequently mentioned, before applying bedding compound.
Regards.
