M1A1ABRAMS
Well-Known Member
Dang and I'm a frequent shopper. I just never visit the baby products. Being single & never having kids. And not bottle feeding calves anymore. I just never wander into that department. lol
Post brass cleaning?
- Thread starter Lonewolf74
- Start date
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I clean them in the ultrasonic, dump them in a towel to remove some of the excess water. Then put them on a cookie sheet and stick em in the oven @ 200° for 20 min. I usually leave them sit until the next day to be sure they are 100% dry.
M1A1ABRAMS
Well-Known Member
20 minutes on 220 ? I believe I would find a cheaper alternative. Unless of course your baking cookies too. Lol
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2008
- Messages
- 5,596
Solar ovens are great for drying things, even brass…
Cheers.
Cheers.
You'll break your teeth on these cookies!
Funny, that's what my wife says when the timer goes off: "Cookies are done!"
I guess I haven't done the math on the cost of running the oven at 200° for 20 min, we have a 500 gal propane tank that we only top off once a year.
It's quick and easy!
BSPPC
Active Member
Y'all are crazy. I don't waste my time cleaning brass beyond wiping off sizing lube. I haven't found clean brass to be more accurate, so I don't mess with cleaning
Read Thread #33 in this Post
WHY I PREP MY BRASS AND FLASH HOLES
Personal opinion, I do that Flash hole prepping to all my brass, From 6 BR and .222 to both the Weatherby Mags. To my mind, no ONE SINGLE STEP in the case prep process is the big Game Changer, but all of them collectively, together , makes my brass more uniform. For me that results in...
cdherman
Well-Known Member
Hey it's clear there are lots of methods that work.
I will add a different twist/tip. I too tumble with lemishine and detergent, and a bit of armor-all car wash(has some wax). Separate out the pins and gunk under running warm water (happens to be softened water). If you dry that directly, you will get some spots and inconsistency. I've dried with oven, blew them out with air compressor etc.
What I do now is this -- after I shake out the pins and as much water as is easy, I have a dedicated gallon of denatured ethanol. I put my lot of cases into a container and shake em around with the ethanol. ethanol is a great water dispersant. It can absorb tons of water. And it flows off the cases, no beads.
I dump the ethanol back into the gallon. Can be re-used nearly forever, since the water to ethanol ratio is low.
Then I tend to blow em out with air compressor (its handy for me) but I am not sure that's needed. Throw them on an old towel and they are beautiful in the AM.
I tend to use powdered graphite after this process to slick up the necks and approximate the carbon people talk about. (and off topic, but anneal somewhere in there too -- all about neck tension consistency I think, though I am not where I would like to be in a perfect world)
I will add a different twist/tip. I too tumble with lemishine and detergent, and a bit of armor-all car wash(has some wax). Separate out the pins and gunk under running warm water (happens to be softened water). If you dry that directly, you will get some spots and inconsistency. I've dried with oven, blew them out with air compressor etc.
What I do now is this -- after I shake out the pins and as much water as is easy, I have a dedicated gallon of denatured ethanol. I put my lot of cases into a container and shake em around with the ethanol. ethanol is a great water dispersant. It can absorb tons of water. And it flows off the cases, no beads.
I dump the ethanol back into the gallon. Can be re-used nearly forever, since the water to ethanol ratio is low.
Then I tend to blow em out with air compressor (its handy for me) but I am not sure that's needed. Throw them on an old towel and they are beautiful in the AM.
I tend to use powdered graphite after this process to slick up the necks and approximate the carbon people talk about. (and off topic, but anneal somewhere in there too -- all about neck tension consistency I think, though I am not where I would like to be in a perfect world)
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
Dawn dish soap & boiling hot water, then rinse.
Drying - spread them out on paper towels & roast in hot sun for 3 hours or sit overnight primer holes or & followed with hair drier, too hot to
touch.
Final inspect, look for water & other.
Drying - spread them out on paper towels & roast in hot sun for 3 hours or sit overnight primer holes or & followed with hair drier, too hot to
touch.
Final inspect, look for water & other.
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If I wash them in hot soapy water they get dried off on the warm setting of a $5 yard sale toaster oven which is about 165 degrees and then into the cob media. Otherwise, just cob media tumble.
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Wet tumble with pins for 30 minutes. Use a squirt of Dawn dish soap with small scoop of Lemi Shine. Works like a champ, gets them clean, and shines up nice. No water spots. If your storing long term, put a dessicant pack in an air tight container or bag, try to remove all air you can and seal. My cleaning process for over 25 years. It works. I have seen a few folks use a vacume seal bag such as one used for food preservation process with good results.
Longshotjames
Well-Known Member
You guys clean your brass? 
Myself when cleaning my brass. And I don't do this every time I'm cleaning brass. But when I really clean my brass I use my ultrasonic cleaner with a little bit of Hornady brass cleaner and this does a super great job on the brass, inside and outside. Now this gives my brass a somewhat dull look. I made a drying block to put my brass in upside down. It's just two mag. Brass holders glued together I can dry a hundred at a time. I drilled a few holes in the bottom of each shell holder to let water drain through. Hand wipe the outside of each one. Dry out the flash holes as well. After that put them in my tumbler to bring back the shine. This usually lasts a few loads unless I'm using something like Retumbo or something similar that's kinda nasty dirty.
