alcesgigas
Well-Known Member
Nearly always forgetting to check cant--in spite of its importance--I needed some kind of reminder. Also, since most of the time those little levels we use aren't always the easiest to see I tried two approaches.
The first uses a tritium rod behind the glass with silicone sealer and it works, but no where near as well as the second...
And that is an LED with a 9 volt battery and switch behind the Accuracy First level. Velcro holds the battery pack (cheap nylon folding knife case cut to size, velcroed, and edges sealed with Liquid Tape) to the rifle, the electrics all came assembled (excepting the battery) ready to use, and Liquid Tape was used to black out behind the LED proper (that I sealed in the slot with silicone sealer) as well as coating the tiny wires for strength and appearance. Whew; that was a long one...
LED assembly was maybe $6--I bought two off the Internet as I figured I'd mess one up--well, pictures tell the story better. Both methods can be seen in the following photos and surprisingly that brightly lit LED disappears when you're in the sight box of the scope.
The first uses a tritium rod behind the glass with silicone sealer and it works, but no where near as well as the second...
And that is an LED with a 9 volt battery and switch behind the Accuracy First level. Velcro holds the battery pack (cheap nylon folding knife case cut to size, velcroed, and edges sealed with Liquid Tape) to the rifle, the electrics all came assembled (excepting the battery) ready to use, and Liquid Tape was used to black out behind the LED proper (that I sealed in the slot with silicone sealer) as well as coating the tiny wires for strength and appearance. Whew; that was a long one...
LED assembly was maybe $6--I bought two off the Internet as I figured I'd mess one up--well, pictures tell the story better. Both methods can be seen in the following photos and surprisingly that brightly lit LED disappears when you're in the sight box of the scope.
