Peterson Brass Article - New Caliber Development

I haven't had the time to check out the dimensionally. I do know in the 500 280AI cases that the COAL was off between 50 cases that I did measure by .0065" between long and short. The reason for that is I cut the necks for thickness, and have to have the same or should have the same stopping point on the brass for concentricity. My thinking is fireforming would take care of the rest. Now volume case weight I haven't gotten that far yet. I figured that I would need to fireform them first, then measure for
I don't get too carried away measuring brass. If we see terrible es then start looking. For us, Peterson brass has made very consistent loads and able to push higher velocities than most other brass. Beyond full length sizing and chamfering case mouth I am not interested in brass prep. For current brass offerings, I think Peterson is as good as it gets.
 
The reason for that is I cut the necks for thickness, and have to have the same or should have the same stopping point on the brass for concentricity.
I use a K+M cutter with the angle matched to the cartridge and don't bother setting the stop point off the case mouth. To me it's very obvious when the shoulder is finished getting cut, I got very consistent neck thickness, no donuts, and no neck separations. I ran one case through my 243 AI 12 times in a row - 1 fireforming load then 10 progressively higher charge loads, no dimensional issues I could measure on the case from cutting necks this way, and the charge ladder shot a sub-MOA group at 100 yards. I figure if a max load on the 12th firing of a case doesn't pop the neck off I didn't cut too deep into the shoulder, because if all my cases last 10+ firings my barrel will for sure be dead at that point.

Basically what this guy does in the "Dreaded Donut" section but I don't cut on a drill press. I use a Skil electric screwdriver or a crazy electric motor/ CV controller I cobbled together.
 
I use a Tri Trim Gen-3 and a 21st Cry set ups to work over my brass. I set to do most any cases. I use to use a Forester set up.
 
I'm not sure the "exact" alloy is as critical as the steps involved in forming the cartridge case, both of which are most likely proprietary.
I agree about process secrets, but alloy is an important attribute in choosing one brand over another.
If it's good & strong, they'd brag on it I'm sure. If it's weak and not lasting, no mention I guess..

I like C26000-C28000, because I know NORMA, REMINGTON, and FEDERAL do not last, while brown box LAPUA, and reloading WINCHESTER does.
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Common sense is a rare commodity anymore. [/QUOTE

Common sense has always been more common among those who apprenticed in mfrng / on the shop floor or worked their way up to design. As our society has changed to valuing paper qualifications over hands on experience (cuz a diploma covers HR's a**) common sense has become far less common.

Middle daughter got her bachelor's in Chem E. (Gig 'Em Aggies!).Took 5 yrs as her last 18 months alternated semesters between interning at a plant on the Houston ship Channel & on campus. She told me she "learned so much more" going hands on & working with experienced engineers.
Paid off in her career, too.

Apprenticeships / interning oughta be mandatory for most fields. The average white collar worker would have a greater appreciation for those who build & maintain their products, those products could be better (if driving every last cent out of product cost wasn't the primary goal) and our society MIGHT benefit by a greater appreciation of each other.
 
I agree about process secrets, but alloy is an important attribute in choosing one brand over another.
If it's good & strong, they'd brag on it I'm sure. If it's weak and not lasting, no mention I guess..

I like C26000-C28000, because I know NORMA, REMINGTON, and FEDERAL do not last, while brown box LAPUA, and reloading WINCHESTER does.
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Within an alloy is a range of tolerance. As long as the alloy falls in that range then it is certified as that alloy. I can tell you in my world that just being in the range of the alloy does not work. Not giving out the alloy does not bother me. I do not publish my alloy let alone the specifics needed within that alloy.
 
I believe Peterson lists the alloy of their cups on the website. It's in the "Technical" section under "Drawing Brass" and "Quality Assurance".
 
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