Oehler 35p question

Discussion in 'Equipment Discussions' started by longrangefishing, Apr 6, 2004.

  1. longrangefishing

    longrangefishing Member

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    Ok I want a Chronograph. I did a search and it looks like this is the one to get. It's a little more $$ than I was wanting to spend. but O.K. I really don't like junk. So the 35p it will be.

    My question is what do I need. they offer a few options. do I need the one with the printer? it don't look like the kit comes with a stand. do I need theirs or will something I have work. can some one give me some pointers of what I nead for starting and what a guy can pick up later. the case looks like it would be nice extra to get.

    thanks.

    Kris [​IMG]
     
  2. Ian M

    Ian M Well-Known Member

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    We covered the Oehler very thoroughly in the past, just do a SEARCH and you will find good info on what to buy and how to use the machine.
     
  3. Brian Rybicky

    Brian Rybicky Well-Known Member

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    Kris,

    I went with out the printer, you can buy alot of pencils/paper and lots more shooting for $120.

    Brian
     
  4. Varmint Hunter

    Varmint Hunter Well-Known Member

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    IMO, the printer is well worth the money. As the paper is coming up, I'm jotting loads & notes on it. The quick and handy summary provides a lot of handy info, and I don't have a bunch of disconnected notes when I get home.

    I prefer the 2' bar w/o stands. I use my own camera tri-pod which works perfectly. Using the 4' bar should be slightly more accurate but requires 2 stands and a long bar to carry around. I just don't think that it's worth the hassle.

    I would add that this is my 4th chronograph. If I had bought the Oehler 35P first I would have only had to buy one. Spend the extra bucks and you will be glad that you did.

    VH
     
  5. Brent

    Brent Well-Known Member

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    I don't like junk either, and the 35P sweet, so is the M43.

    I'd pass on their case for it, cheap junk is all. I wrap the cords around skreen one and two and keep the stands and diffusers in a soft rifle case.

    I pretty much abuse the hell out of my screens, but they're pretty well protected from damage in the lexan cases that they're housed in.

    Two stands makes it easier than the tripod to set up and get aligned IMO, and a 4' rail is the only way to go for accurate readings. I pay very little attention to the proof readings from the two foot screen because it always jumps around a bit here and there on me, the 4' screen is always stable and predictable.

    Ian's laser trick to getting the screens set up works the very best too! Don't use the diffusers unless it's a clear blue sky and you'll get best performance... they are NEEDED in a blue sky though, so I keep them in the case with my stands so I always have them for the blue (low light intensity) days.

    I'd get the printer, for the reasons already stated, pretty much sums up my thoughts on it too. Get their 4' rail, comes with indents for each screen to exactly space them along the rail, which is handy.

    ALWAYS double check to make sure your bore line is ABOVE the screens when setting up, then triple check to make sure you double checked! [​IMG]

    I have a method for setting it up at the target perfectly if you ever get to checking downrange velocity to check your actual BC's.

    Enjoy!
     
  6. AJ300MAG

    AJ300MAG Well-Known Member

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    Brent, Ian, did a search and didn't find anything on setting up with a laser. Either of you two care to share your secret????
     
  7. Ian M

    Ian M Well-Known Member

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    Al,
    I have found that the best, most consistent readings occur when the screens are perfectly parallel to the bullet path, and the bullet is very close to the top of the screen. My screen holder system is adjustable up and down and in an arc for leveling - I found that 1/4" movement up or down to con-incide with the bullet path will significantly improve the consistency (closeness of the 2 readings).
    When light gets low and I want to get a few more readings I shoot as close as possible to the screen tops.
    Skyscreens are very easy to repair - replace is a better term. Only major problem which would kill them is shooting the little eye, or cutting the cable going into the body. I haven't shot the eye yet, but did cut a cable with a muzzleloader sabot once.
    I use a plywood shield at the muzzle end, a piece of plywood on a light stand to protect the screen body from muzzeloader sabots. Sabots and shotgun wads are hell on diffusers, shoot without them if possible.
    Downrange I stand a 2'x4' piece of 3/8's or even 1/2" steel plate in front of the setup to deflect low shots. Big enough to protect the camera tripods and screen. Have it so the bullet just clears and will go over the screen. I spray paint a dot to show where the center of the screen is behind the big plate.
     
  8. Ian M

    Ian M Well-Known Member

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    Somewhere there is a post where I suggested a bunch of basics and spare parts to order when buying an Oehler.

    The laser trick is simple. Just use a laser pointer (or one of those bore sighters if you have one). Measure your rear Skyscreen location at 10' from your muzzle. Then get a buddy to hold a piece of paper or cardboard at the rear skyscreen and place the laser at the muzzle, so it points parallel to the bore. The bottom of the cardboard is in line with the top of the skyscreen. When you fire the laser you will see exactly where the bullet's path will be, just move the screen-holders over, up down or whatever to ensure the bullet will be centered and a few inched over the screen. Works faster than it takes to type it. Then go to the front screen and repeat, and you are ready to start shooting.
    The 35P is as reliable as an anvil, I am confident you will enjoy yours. Get the printer, get some spare skyscreen bodies (I carry one complete skysceen assembly in each chrono kit). Get a 5$ level, a pair of plyers, a tape measure, spare batteries, spare pens and paper or notebook. I use big tool boxes with a closed cell liner to keep everything in place. Also get three spare diffusers and side brackets when you order, they get shot every so often.
    I use an elaborate system to hold and space my skyscreens - uses two Bogan camera tripods and a machined 1/2" rod that holds the skyscreens at exact intervals, never have to measure that. The rig is great, very adjustable, very expensive when you shoot it tho.

    [ 04-07-2004: Message edited by: Ian M ]
     
  9. AJ300MAG

    AJ300MAG Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Ian. I found the thread where you described the spare parts, but also found one where you PM'ed Brent with your method on setting up your skyscreens. Couldn't find it anywhere else. I've had my Oehler for 4 years now, love it. Only problem I've been having with it is that I get a 007 code, and only one reading. I noticed yesterday that when I'm shooting a cluster of targets, appears I'm at the edge of my sighting window. Think that if I shoot higher over the screens, it will give me more lattitude. Right now I set up aprox half way up on the "V". Have had some issues when shooting a .300 ultra with anything over 3200fps. Muzzle blast? Don't have the same problem with a .223. Haven't nailed a screen just yet, not like my hunting buddy who nailed his Crony, TWICE [​IMG]

    Thanks, Al
     
  10. longrangefishing

    longrangefishing Member

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    thanks guys. that is what I was looking for. Any more helpful info?


    Kris [​IMG]
     
  11. niknman

    niknman Member

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    I just fired mine up today for the first time. I went with an 8 foot piece of half inch conduit to make my spread longer. Don't forget to change the numbers if you lengthen the rod and definitely get the printer as it does alot of figuring for you. Can't wait to shoot mine so I can whine. Great board guys.
     
  12. Brent

    Brent Well-Known Member

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    AJ,

    I pretty much shoot all my stuff with the first screen set about 10 feet away and never have errors or muzzle blast problems.
    I did have a problem with the proof channel start screen not triggering the last time out, may have been the light or path over the screen but the main start and stop screens still worked fine. I'm not sure what was up with that, first time I've ever seen it. When I use a rail on the M43 it has a diagnosis screen that tells you the milliseconds each screen triggered at, or if one failed to trigger, same with the acoustic target's microphones. I've always got reading when hooked to the 35P, didn't even know it had some sort of error reporting code, but I haven't read the book on it for.... a long time, might not have read that part even. Oehler's pretty good about helping out with problems. i had a problem with my acoustic target once last year, Clovis there at Oehler told me to plug the mic's into my 35P and tap each mic to see if each triggered the printer. I believe the one you tapped on had to be plugged into the 35P on the plugin that turns the 35P on in order to activate the printer when tapped on though. Ken gave me some pointers on a better target backer setup behind the acoustic target which cured the problem I had. Helpfull folks and a guaranteed product.
     
  13. AJ300MAG

    AJ300MAG Well-Known Member

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    Brent, If the readout shows 0000, or 9999 it indicates that either the start or the stop screen didn't see the bullet. On one shot my proof channel had a reading of 0007, main channel read 3245, which was within 25FPS of other readings in the string. We have some electronic "noise" at the range, the chrono will trigger and give some weird readings. Not a cloud in the sky so shouldn't be lightning in the area [​IMG] Wish I could afford a 43, looking seriously at the RSI equipment. If I'd quit bying guns I might even be able to afford a laptop [​IMG]
     
  14. Brent

    Brent Well-Known Member

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    I'll have to dig out my owners manual again, laptop's off getting fixed so I'm using the 35P more. PressureTrace is the superior product from a chamber pressure measurement standpoint, no doubts, and for the money it is a super buy. The local range here sets next to an airport with some fair amount of electical noise, thankfully it hasn't been a problem for the most part.