New Tool!


Well-Known Member
Jan 28, 2007
South Dakota
This is a receiver jack used to evenly pull a freshly bedded barreled action from the stock.


Real simple. Install a scope rail (probably a milspec 1913/Picatinny type), install the studs and adapters to the rail, and slide the chassis over the action. The two studs poke through the slots and you install your brass washers and nuts. These work on an action up to 1.470" in width.

(I'm finishing up the chassis parts right now, don't have the hardware kits made for them yet)

Then just apply an even tension till the receiver lets go.

I made one of these years ago and gave it to Nesika when I left.

Works great!





GAH *** Chad why do you always have to be such a show off super machinist? But really very cool Chad thanks for sharing all the nifty uber things who've come up with or have made over the years!
Two reasons.

1st and most obvious is I like showing what's going in the shop when it's something kind of novel and cool.

2. A guy somewhere else has who does this stuff will eventually run into the same sort of challenge/problem. He may not have the equipment that I do, but manual machines and a little patience can make some very, very nice parts as well.

Were a small crowd so it helps to stick together!

Thanks for the kind words.


Before I put this on my "to give it a go" list............Is there some point, wnen applying removal force, that a 'prudent' wack with a mallet in order?

Sorry just gotta ask.:rolleyes: There is usually an encroachment of anxiety or near panic somewhere during each of my removal processes.:)

That is a nifty looking gizmo and never would have thought of it on my own. Thanks for sharing.

I have a very carefully selected inventory of tools that I use for Post Traumatic Bedding Disorder.

They are:

1. Rubber whacker
2. Bigger rubber whacker (kidding)
3. A chisel/puddy knife that I made from annealed brass
4. The "action jack"

I use home made "bedding studs" instead of guard screws when bedding. Reason is the studs only have enough threads on them to get the job done, this is to minimize any resin from forming a machine lock. They are hardened and polished like chrome to also mitigate any "stickage" during removal.

Brass chisel is to chip away the annoying stuff that loiters over showline. As a practice I leave a swelled meniscus of bedding along showline to counter any shrinkage. I hate saggers. Using brass ensures I don't chew up the receiver in the process. Frequent tune ups on a sanding block are often required to keep a tuned edge.

The rubber whacker is to "shock" everything loose prior to yanking the bugger out. A few firm smacks is all it takes.

The jack is the key in this for me anyway. It's a sure method to pull straight up on the receiver. Even if you have a slight over center bead of resin this thing is so gentle and even tempered that often the receiver just glides right over it without the stuff cracking/splitting/chipping all over the place. Makes for quick and simple clean up afterwards. A few strokes with a long board sanding block and the showline edges are ready for final fluff/buff/finish.

This is really crucial for me because I use the show line as the datum for all my bottom side inletting work in the mill. I have to treat this as a qualified edge or stuff will be all over the place.

Post Traumatic Bedding Disorder. - :D:D

This is really crucial for me because I use the show line as the datum for all my bottom side inletting work in the mill. I have to treat this as a qualified edge or stuff will be all over the place.

Not familiar with the term "show line"???
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