Soon! My smith forgot to send my trigger back with my barreled action so I've been waiting since 12/9 for that to be shipped back ... UPS just delivered it this morning though so hopefully I can get out and shoot some initial loads within the next week or so. We have about 1/4" of ice and a few inches of snow on top of it right now so not great shooting conditions unfortunately.Updates?
Lookin good!View attachment 240013
Got it all put together today! It’s going to be around 20° in the morning but I’m hoping to get out and put some rounds down the pipe.
I have 200 cases to fireform so I won’t get to max velocities anytime soon but excited to finally squeeze the trigger ... been about 13 months since I started buying parts.
haha, okay fair enough. Like I said I'm learning too, and I've simply never heard of brass shoulders being bumped back so far that the firing pin couldn't ignite the primer, so that's a new one on me. I guess the extractor doesn't necessarily hold the brass tight enough to the bolt face, which surprises me a little, just because it seems like the firing pin drives into the primer much deeper than the piece of brass can move back and forth when it's in the bolt, but apparently it can.Take the following with a large grain of salt because I'm in no position to do any educating on this subject! lol My rifle shooting and loading background is 100% with gas guns up until this rifle build so this is my first experience dealing with loading for a bolt gun and I will simply try to explain what I did based on my conversations with my gun smith and others in this community.
When I first received my brass and sized them (luckily only the first 50) it took a ton of force to close the bolt on that empty brass. I started slowly bumping the shoulder back to the point I could close the bolt without interference but ended up going to far. That excess shoulder bump, even though it's only a few thousands of an inch allows the case to slightly move forward in the chamber and absorb the energy from the firing pin dropping on the primer, hence the light primer strikes. The thought behind pushing the bullet out into the lands is that will prevent the case from being able to move forward in the chamber which will let the primer take the full force of the firing pin and go bang. I had sent my barreled action back to my smith and he did this very thing and successfully fired one of the rounds I had sent with the rifle.
I don't have a modified case yet to thread onto my Hornady case gauge tool so the first time I pushed the bullets out I did it by feel similar to that video you posted, but I didn't have everything quite right. This last time I did it I found that bolt drop method on a different video (same exact process though) and used that to determine my seating depth at the lands so this time I should be good, and they should go bang ... in theory.
Correct....there is enough 'play' between the extractor lip and the rim to allow forward movement of undersized brass. For this reason Ackley Improved chambers are designed to be cut about 0.004" short of the case head to neck/shoulder junction so that area binds upon chambering a parent case and forces the case head against the bolt face. Hard jamming the bullet is another way of accomplishing the same task as is making a false shoulder on some cases (such as the Dasher). Either way, during fireforming, regularly grease the lugs to reduce the chance of galling. I re-grease every 15rds or so when forming forming cases that have increased shoulder angles....such as the 7SS.haha, okay fair enough. Like I said I'm learning too, and I've simply never heard of brass shoulders being bumped back so far that the firing pin couldn't ignite the primer, so that's a new one on me. I guess the extractor doesn't necessarily hold the brass tight enough to the bolt face, which surprises me a little, just because it seems like the firing pin drives into the primer much deeper than the piece of brass can move back and forth when it's in the bolt, but apparently it can.