Need Serious Gun Help

MarioT

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2006
Messages
78
Location
New York State
Ok guys. I know I did a wrong thing here. I havnt cleaned my Stevens probably in about 1 month and some change. I started to clean it on tues, then I think I did i thurs. I did it again yesterday and today. I still get carbon and stuff coming out of the barrel.

HOW CAN I EFFECIENTLY CLEAN MY GUN (with my items)?!?!

I have:

1. Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner - Hoppe's Elite Gun Oil
2. Remington Bore Cleaner - Rem Oil
3. Break-Free CLP

Please someone help. I am really dissapointed and i really want to clean this up.
 
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(with my items)?!?!

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With your items I'd just keep doing what you are doing. Sooner or later, most probably later it'll get clean. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

My grandson did his first rifle cleaning this morning. The 222 REM had seen a cleaning in several years. I would have put some Wipeout in the bore the night before but wanted him to run some patches and brush through. After about 5 patches with Warthog then some Hoppe's on a patch wrapped aroung a brush it was done in about 15 minutes.

I don't know how many rounds you put through the stevens in that period of time but the 222 hand hundreds though it and its an older than the hills Model 722.

If you bore is rough you may wish to consider Tubbs Final Finish. There are those that swear by it and I thnk I'm one of 'em.

Just my nickel's worth.....
 
Well what should I do though?

What i've been doing is:

-I put some remington 40x bore cleaner on a brush and brush 12 times.
-Then I take a patch of rem oil and run it through
-Then 2 or 3 dry patches
-AFTER that I put a good amount of CLP on a patch and run it through. Let it sit for a bit.
-Then I put it down the bore (I have the aerosel can)
-I let the CLP sit for 20mins or more
-After its done sitting I get a brush and put a little or no CLP on it and brush 12 times.
-Then put 2 or 3 patches through

I keep seeing carbon (black) as far as I know. I havnt been doing this for a while and really dont know what to do.

I also tried the Hoppe's Gun Cleaner today. I put a good amount on a patch, pushed it through the barrel. Let it sit for about 12 mins. Then I got a brush and brushed 12 times. Then I put 3 patches through and thats where I left off today... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Any help is appreciated. I really need help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks,
Spades
 
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Well what should I do though?

What I've been doing is:

I put some Remington 40x bore cleaner on a brush and brush 12 times.

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OK...

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Then I take a patch of rem oil and run it through

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Oil does NOT clean!

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Then 2 or 3 dry patches

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Dry patches do NOT clean!!

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AFTER that I put a good amount of CLP on a patch and run it through. Let it sit for a bit.

[/ QUOTE ]

CLP does NOT clean!!

[ QUOTE ]
Then I put it down the bore (I have the aerosel can)- I let the CLP sit for 20mins or more

[/ QUOTE ]

CLP does NOT clean!!

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After its done sitting I get a brush and put a little or no CLP on it and brush 12 times.

[/ QUOTE ]

CLP (even on a brush) does NOT clean!

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Then put 2 or 3 patches through

[/ QUOTE ]

2 or 3 dry patches do NOT clean!!

[ QUOTE ]
I keep seeing carbon (black) as far as I know. I haven't been doing this for a while and really don't know what to do.

I also tried the Hoppe's Gun Cleaner today. I put a good amount on a patch, pushed it through the barrel. Let it sit for about 12 mins. Then I got a brush and brushed 12 times. Then I put 3 patches through and thats where I left off today... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Any help is appreciated. I really need help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks,
Spades

[/ QUOTE ]

So far you have only done one cycle of cleaning (the first 12 stroke with bore cleaner)... you haven't even started cleaning it.

Don't put any oil product in the bore until you are finished (and arguably not until you are going to store the riffle for extended periods).

Use bore cleaner, and 10 to 12 strokes of a wet brush.
Then wet patch it 3 or 4 times... if the last patch is not light gray, let it soak for an hour or two.

Repeat the above until the last wet patch comes out gray. It will never come out white.

Continue this sequence until the wet patches come out light gray... and there is no green on them.

Run two dry patches, and you are done.

If the barrel is Chromoly, and you live in a very humid area (like the gulf coast) run an oiled patch through it, or spray the barrel/chamber with a good oil, and put it away.

Don't EVER use CLP, as it has Teflon in it and you DON'T want Teflon in the barrel, EVER!!!

P.S...

Some powders burn filthy, and can be a booger to clean... the above can take a day or more of 5 minutes every few hours.

Often, guns are allowed to get so dirty, that the first good (thorough) cleaning is a painful ordeal... but if you stay on top of it, it gets easier each time (if done right).

.
 
i can't think of any chrome moly barrels that have the patches look clean when removed. my patches always look pretty dark even when the barrel is clean.

i agree with Roy, get a can of wipeout and let er sit over night a couple times.
 
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if the last patch is not light gray, let it soak for an hour or two.

If the barrel is Chromoly

Don't EVER use CLP, as it has Teflon in it and you DON'T want Teflon in the barrel, EVER!!!

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Ok. So I do as you said, and if the last patch does not come out light grey I let the cleaner sit in the bore from the last patch? Or should I put a new patch down. And sorry to ask this, but how much of the cleaner should i put on the patch?

I have no idea what Chromoly is?

And why not clean with CLP? I hear it is good stuff and I know a US Marine that cleans with it and loves it. He cleans all of his guns with it.

Thanks for your understandings. I just want to get this done with.
 
If the patch comes out dirty, run a NEW wet patch through it and let it sit "wet".

Cromoly is short for barrel steel that is NOT stainless. Chromoly = "Chrome Molybdenum steel".

Why not CLP... because CLP is an oil with teflon in it. It is not a bore cleaner, it does not remove copper, or powder residue.

Teflon in a barrel is very bad. If it was good, your barrel would come teflon lined, (like a frying pan).

Shooting the barrel with Teflon forces the Teflon into the steel pores, and heat breaks down the Teflon into chemicals that are destructive to barrel steel.

Because your marine buddy uses it, does not mean it'd good for the borer... it a good gun oil for the bolt, raceways, etc, but that does not mean it is a barrel cleaner.

.
 
You cannot clean with what you have. You have 3 gun oils.

You must have cleaners that removed two things, carbon and copper.

Carbon- Slip 2000, Montana Extreme Copper creme, Butches, Bore Shine, Blackpowder gel, etc.

Copper- Montanta Extreme 50 BMG, Butch's Bore Shine, Wipeout etc

Chrome moly will clean just like SS and come out with clean patches. If patches come out dirty, then that is a clue the bore is still dirty.

There are a dozen threads on here about various cleaning techniques.

Basically couple constants.

1. USE a bore guide

2. Good one piece rod, either SS or coated (Deweys)

3. I use the ME 50 BMG, and ME copper creme. It cuts better than the others IMO and I use a borescope to check every time, so I know it is clean. Some like wipeout and setting overnight.

BH
 
CarShooter'

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Don't EVER use CLP, as it has Teflon in it and you DON'T want Teflon in the barrel, EVER!!!

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CLP stands for Cleaner - Lubricant - Preservative
It is an issued firearm cleaning product for the U.S military and NATO.

Where did you get the info that you posted and why is this stuff still available to our servivemen for their weapons if it is so detrimental for use in (on) firearms?

I have use Break Free CLP for many years as a bore protectant and on the exterior metal surfaces as a rust inhibitor. Many of my rifles wear custom barrels and have been back to various smiths for rechambering after extensive use. I routinely ask them to check the bores for condition before they do any work. I have never been advised by a competent smith that their was an identifible problem with any of my barrels which have had CLP used in them for years.

I'm not saying that you're wrong but it sure flies in the face of my experience and apparently that of our military too.
 
Ok well i picked up some Hoppe's No. 9 Solvent.

Should I follow the same way of cleaning?

Also, CLP was used in all guns and such. It is very good stuff to use.

Again, thanks for the help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
CarShooter'

[ QUOTE ]
Don't EVER use CLP, as it has Teflon in it and you DON'T want Teflon in the barrel, EVER!!!

[/ QUOTE ]

CLP stands for Cleaner - Lubricant - Preservative
It is an issued firearm cleaning product for the U.S military and NATO.

Where did you get the info that you posted and why is this stuff still available to our servivemen for their weapons if it is so detrimental for use in (on) firearms?

I have use Break Free CLP for many years as a bore protectant and on the exterior metal surfaces as a rust inhibitor. Many of my rifles wear custom barrels and have been back to various smiths for rechambering after extensive use. I routinely ask them to check the bores for condition before they do any work. I have never been advised by a competent smith that their was an identifible problem with any of my barrels which have had CLP used in them for years.

I'm not saying that you're wrong but it sure flies in the face of my experience and apparently that of our military too.

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"CLP stands for Cleaner - Lubricant - Preservative"

1 - It is NOT a powder solvent or copper solvent, so it cannot clean the barrel.

It is fine for M-16s and other combat weapons that are used in the desert and jungles... it is NOT for the inside of fine barrels.

Teflon is not for the insides of barrels.

Where did I "get" this. Besides my own college edujamacation... I got it from Rick Boucher, head of sniper training at Ft Bragg, and David Liwanag, head of the Army's AMU... and about 50 other knowledgeable sources. It is common (maybe not so) knowledge.

You cannot clean barrels with oil... that's NOT rocket science.

But if you want to... be my guest.

.
 
Hoppes will not do the job in a timley matter!! If you get some SlP 2000 carbon cutter or Gm top engine cleaner to first remove the carbon, then you can use Sweets 7.62 or Barnes CR10 to work on the copper. Let the copper solvent set in the barrel for 10 minutes wet! reapply another wet patch then scrub with a NYLON bore brush 25 passes and patch it out.Repeat as neaded untill the patch comes out clean. Copper and carbon fouling are laid down in microscopic layers and you may have to repeat several times.The copper solvent will eat the bronze brushes so the need for nylon brushes. Good luck!!
 
I did what Catshooter said to do, but instead I did it with Hoppes #9.

The last patch came out clean. I'm not sure if there is more in the barrel, which I will check today.

Thanks for the help though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
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