My new long range rig...nothing too fancy...w/pics

[sniper2]

Not a bad looking rifle!I am getting 1/3 MOA with 103g A8700 and 200g Accubond this is a warm load in my rifle I'd start lower and work up if you try... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[lovdasnow]

thanks!

I just took it out for the first time this weekend. I can't believe how clear the NF is. All my other scopes are leupolds, and the NF focuses sooooo clear, it was a pleasure to shoot.

I'm still trying to find a load that shoots good, and trying to figure out what I can expect from a factory rig. Haven't found anything that shoots yet, but still looking.

I have h-1000 and retumbo, and 178 A-max, 200AB, and 220 SMK, and havn't got any to shoot yet. Just getting going on load development though. I'm shooting Fed brass, and am seating bullets as long as the magazine allows.

How far do you guys test loads at? 100, 200, 300? and can I get decent results from 100?

I can't wait to find my load and start practicing on some long range stuff.

 

[Chawlston]

What I have found to be the easiest method for me with all my different calibers is to work up the very best load at 100 with less than 10FPS extreme spread on the velocity. Next move out to 400 and see how the load works once the bullets are asleep. So far the 400 yard shooting has confirmed what I learned at 100. Most of mine shoot between .75" and 1.25" at 400 yards and I am good with that level of accuracy.

James

 

[sniper2]

I test loads at distances I intend on shooting, have been real lucky in getting rifles to shoot well...

 

[lovdasnow]

I need to order a chrono now, been looking, but don't want to drop the money for an Ohler (sp?). Trying to decide which one to get.

do you guys play with powder charges and bullets first and then start expermenting with seating depth? There are so many variables....where do you start? Don't want to shoot 1/4 of my barrel out on load development, or is that normal?

should i buy other powders? RL25? I didn't want to get something that was temp sensitive, but what do you guys think?

thanks, jon

 

[sniper2]

The Pact 1 xp goes for about $130. and works well. I generally try seating depth first, and have had great results with A8700,IMR7828,H1000,R25.

 

[lovdasnow]

been reading about the shooting chrony's and i definatly want to stay away from them! If I'm going to spend the time setting up and shooting throuhg the chrony, then I want it to be accurate. is the pact chrono a lot better than the other not so good ones? I found a couple on ebay, but wanted to check before I tried to win them...

what increments are you moving seating depth at a time? and do you just start you min length where the reloading books says to start?

thanks, jon

 

[remingtonman_25_06]

I usually just select a primer, bullet, length combo and start towards the top, going in either .5g increments or 1g increments. I usually test at 100 yards for the smaller and medium calibers, and 200 for the RUM and bigger bullets. Once I find my best load at those distances, I take it to 300 then 500 to see if its still shooting at least MOA, then start shooting long range. Your powders and bullets should be fine. H1000 has been my favorite powder for my 300 RUM with bullets weighing from 150g-220g.

 

[remingtonman_25_06]

with hunting bullets, for repeating, your just gonna have to go the max length of your magazine. FOr your remington it should be around 3.660-80" For single shot use with target bullets, it will be around 3.8" or longer, depending on your particular rifle and bullet used. I personally have a crony chronograph. Yah theres a lot of people that say there junk, but mine does all I want it to do. Tell me the velocity. its worked just fine for me for the 3 years I've had it. It does not work in low light conditions though and will give false readings if put to close to the muzzle. Other then that, it works fine and tells me what I want to know.

 

[lovdasnow]

thanks for the info...

so you start working with powder changes, and the guy above start with seating depth. Is there one that is better than the other? what do most people do? I had been playing with powder first, but then was wondering if there was a better way...
I'll probably go ahead and shoot at 200 to start with, and my gun already seems to like the H-1000 better than the retumbo, but I havn't had enough time to determine that forsure. Is retumbo slower burning than h-1000? or what is the diff...

thanks again, any other opinions are welcome..thanks

 

[Meister]

My experience with retumbo has been that it's a great powder if you want as much speed as possible without regard to fps spread. Such as a 375 h&h or other big game rounds that only need at be minute o' cape buffalo. I'm keeping the 1/2 pound I have left from testing to use for fire forming my 338LM mag to AI specs when this barrel is shot out. H1000 will work for quite a few rounds and is exremely consistant. It's my fav magnum powder. Doesn't have the fastest speed- but makes tiny groups! I buy it 16 Lbs at a time.

Good Info From the guy who makes the best barrels in the world. (in my opinion)

 

[Sasquatch]

I also shoot a 300 rum, 700 CDL factory tube. my rifle prefers the 180 gr hornady interbond or nosler accubond. I use 95 gr of Retumbo for the hornady loads and 94.5 for the noslers. I have also found good loads with H1000 at 92.5 gr and am going to try some RL 22 and 25 out this summer. I am going to try them because the stick powder doesn't meater very well out of my piggy back powder measure.

At 100 yards, the hornady bullets aren't a very pretty group (1.25"), but after 300, they are shooting sub moa groupsout to about 650, then I believe my optics come into play.

 

[lovdasnow]

sasquatch, thanks for the info. I will be loading up some more rounds this afternoon and I'll try out some of the listings here.

meister, thanks for the link, good read..a ton of info on that page!

 

[Meister]

You might try getting a stoney point ogive gauge and chamer ogive measuring device. It cuts the guesswork out of the OAL testing. I set mine .003 less than touching for the first ladder test, then when I find the speed the barrel likes, I'll mess with the oal a little. I try it touching the lands, .003 off, .006 off, .009 off. I'm usually dead on at .003 off. it's my meathod after a few years of messing around the old fashoned way.
OAL gauge
You'll need a comparator too.