Muzzle brake stuck on brand new barrel

[engineer40]

One last thought... It really blows my mind how stuck this became from me hand tightening it on!

I have Anti Seize in the garage. Just never would have imagined this would have happened.

 

[FEENIX]

I had my barrel + muzzle brake in the freezer overnight. When I took it out this morning I immediately submerged the threads in PB Blaster. My hope was that when the metal warmed it would allow the PB Blaster to work it's way into the threads some. I knew that would not help with the spot it was galled, but I figured it would help giving the rest of the threads some lube.

I left it submerged for about 5 hours. Then tightened a receiver to the barrel so I could use my action wrench as leverage... along with the longest screw driver Harbor Freight sells through the brake.

I eventually got it to budge. Once it budged I knew I was in business.

I finally got it all the way off. Upon inspection, it did rip some of the barrel threads out. Luckily, not much. I think I can clean the threads up with the correct thread file.

Blisters should heal within a week and life is good again!

YOU'RE THE MAN!

 

[Pdvdh]

It might not cost too much to have a lathe operator clean up the barrel threads.

The female threads inside the brake might be little more difficult...

I've had SS bolts / nuts gall on me a number of times in the past. Fortunately not with rifles/firearms. Once the galling gets to a certain point, a lot of thread damage ensues even if the two unthread. A complete lock up is not uncommon and then I'll torque until the bolt is twisted into two separate pieces.

 

[NoFences]

Glad you got it off. It's definitely a lesson worth remembering for me.

 

[FEENIX]

Glad you got it off. It's definitely a lesson worth remembering for me.

Likewise!

 

[Edd]

Maybe you could start a new thread about what is the best stuff to put on stainless steel threads.

 

[Trickymissfit]

get yourself a can of Kroil. Hang the barrel vertically, but with the muzzle down. Four or five drops of Kroil soaked over night may help. If it doesn't, your threads are probably galled. Whatever you do, do not add heat to the problem. What you might try is wrapping the last sis or eight inches of the barrel in dry ice. This will cause the steel to shrink a couple thousandths. Now take something like a wooden dowel rod and try to work it off. If the barrel is a really good one, you might have to cut it off in a lathe. For sure the threads will need to be chased in a lathe.

A lot of folks cutting threads leave a very sharp tip on the thread form. This is a no-no! The threads in the brake were mostly cut with a tap. A lot of taps have the root diameter cut with a slight radius caused by the thread grinder wheel breaking down. When you leaves that sharp point in the O.D. your metal to metal. Not at all good. The standard contact for all U.S. threads (as in every) is 70%, but once you get past .75" the contact is actually decreased. A 1" thread should be in the area of 65% metal to metal contact. Too much contact creates problems that will ruin you day. Then there's the guy that uses thread mics to get there. He never gets there very often. There these things called thread triangles that work with regular micrometers. They're pretty good. Yet nothing works as well as three wires.

gary

 

[J E Custom]

Maybe you could start a new thread about what is the best stuff to put on stainless steel threads.

This is the stuff I like to use. It is for use on stainless steel and has a 2400 o flash temp rating.

It will obviously hold up to the temp we will place it in, and it is good in foul weather.
Incase you don't get the link, here is the product brand and part number.

Loctite= Anti Seize Compound, mf# 77124

https://www.zoro.com/loctite-anti-seize-compound-nickel-8-oz-can-77124/i/G3419254/

I use it every time on muzzle brakes and checking thread fit on SS barrel to action threads.
I also leave it on (After wiping most of it off) so that after torqueing, these parts can be removed
cleanly with a little effort. NOTE: Care must be taken not to over torque with anti seize on threads.

Hope this helps

J E CUSTOM

 

[Wado]

I think I bought this from Midway.
ww.na.henkel-adhesives.com

 

[Wado]

LOCTITE® LB 8060

Finally got it.

 

[sable tireur]

Since 99% of my work is done with stainless/stainless, I found that a good anti-seize was mandatory. After trying a variety of brands and combinations of components, I have found that this works all the time:

SAF-T-EZE® Nickel Grade Anti-Seize

SAF-T-EZE Nickel Grade and Nickel Premium Anti-Seize

It is available as small as a 1 oz tube up through gigantic barrels with every size in between. I keep a 16 oz. can on my bench and one at the barrel vise so I don't have to look for it when needed.

Regards.

 

[FEENIX]

Just got this one tonight ...