"Mountain rifles" for backpack hunting

My back country rifle:

6.5 Sherman Short Mag
Stiller predator S/A Magnum Boltface
Proof Reserch 1:8 twist 26" barrel
GW Magnus Carbon fiber stock
Stiller 20 MOA scope base
Nightforce 34mm rings
PTG Orbandorff Aluminum Bottom metal
Jewell trigger
Ryan Pierce 3 port slabbed "muscle brake"
Nightforce ATACR 4-16x42 F1 scope

Weight 8.2lbs scoped.
Built by AxisWorks in Chandler AZ,
 
Building a light rifle, and carrying a rifle on a hunt all day are two completely separate issues.

The weight difference between what is perceived to be a heavy or light rifle is marginal.

When you backpack hunt, you carry your essentials with you, and most importantly water. At the very minimum, 3 pounds of water for the day, excluding food.

Your clothing alone will weigh 10 pounds, excluding the weight of the pack.

Your body loses water as well as body mass, so you could weigh a few pounds lighter at the end of a day's hunting.

Comparing all the additional weight factors, a difference of 3 pounds in the weight of a rifle is the smallest weight difference factor in the mix.

Having your body fit for purpose will be of much better benefit than having a six pound rifle - if you're not in shape for mountain hunting, not even a 4 pound rifle will make your day.
 
I dream mountain build:

7 Rem Mag (throated for Berger 168's)

LPA Razor Ti LA
Proof 24" Light Sendero w/ Titanium Thread Protector
Manners EH-2 w/ pillars (KUIU Verde hydro)
Trigger Tech Trigger (these things are amazing)
BDL style aluminum floorplate bottom metal
Internal Wyatts extended box mag
Javelin bipod adapter plate
Vortex Razor LH 3-15x42

I have lists of all the spec weights of my components somewhere, but I remember it being about 6 pounds if I recall. My mountain gun goal is under 7.5 pounds fully loaded, which is definitely doable, but have not had good luck with lightweight guns thus far with this barrels, so hoping the proof can help.

I currently have a LAW in 7 Rem Mag but it's about 1 pound heavier than I'd like. I also have a Tikka T3 in .300 Win Mag but it shoots worse than I'd like (1.5") and is about half a pound heavier than I'd like. This year I too will be using my Ruger American Predator as my mountain gun in 6.5 CM.
 
Just curious if on a budget why not a forbles llc in say .280. I have one i picked up for 1200 bones. with a 4.5x14x40 leo and talleys under 6.5 lbs. After getting it to shoot 140 ttsx to 3130 at under 3/4" some groups .5" had Karl kempfeld cerakote it. Just an idea or even build something light in a 280ai?
 
My dad has a Forbes .280 and does the same as yours. I carried it last year and it's a sweet stick! I picked up a Kimber Montana .280 AI recently for my new mountain rifle since my LAW was too heavy. With my Vortex Razor LH, Talley's, and ammo, it's 6lbs 11oz. Pretty excited about it so far!

I actually ordered a Forbes in 7RM as soon as the company announced itself and was on the preorder list for a LA, but they shut down before they could make any LA's. Dandy rifle though.
 
Gatorgrizz,

I looked at that Weatherby Vanguard Wilderness. Doubtless, being a Weatherby, it's a well made stock but not a shape I like. The drop of the heel of the stock is way too much. That causes the barrel to lift a lot during recoil.

I'd much rather have a stock with a high comb, a classic (non-Monte Carlo) cheekpiece and just enough cutout in the comb to clear the bolt with it's removed. One good example is Boyd's Gunstocks' "Classic": laminated stock for my Ruger American Predator. Another is the Army's M24 sniper stock by HS Precision.

Eric B.
 
Just got back from the 1st week Elk rifle season in Montana. I was not physically prepared for the trip. Walking on the relatively flat areas in MD did not do it. Also, a Pre-64 model 70 with McMillan stock and Nightforce 3.5x15 was not the best choice in rifles to carry on the mountains.

Next time I go I will be better prepared and better (lighter) equipment.

Good luck

Jerry
 
Jerry,

Altitude (above 6,000 ft.) can tire you if not acclimated and if you don't have a good aerobic base of training. That's the necessary basic conditioning required.

To help me at altitude I take three NO2 tablets one hour before or after breakfast as per the directions.

NO2 is time released L-Arginine,an amino acid that releases dissolved nitRIC gasses into your blood (not nitrous). Like Cialis but in a milder form this time-released form of L-Arginine dilates your blood vessels for better blow supply to you lungs for better O2 uptake and gives your muscles better blood flow. It also helps rid you of lactic acid from the muscles to avoid cramping.

NO2 comes in either "Red" or Black". I prefer "Red". You can buy it at GNC and it's not a cheap date but well worth it.

As for light gear light Gore-Tex boots are the first thing to look at. A pound of weight on the foot is like two pounds on the back in terms of calories burned and effort required. There are a couple of ways to make light boots warmer. Contact me about this with a PM and I can explain. Or go to the "Backpack Hunting" forum and look for the thread on "Footwear Versatility Success". I explained it there. Even Len Bacus is trying my tried and true method.

Also synthetic clothing is not only lighter than cotton or wool (once wool becomes damp from sweat) but synthetics dry far faster than wool. AVOID COTTON at all costs.
Winter backpackers and backcountry skiers have a saying, "cotton kills" and it's true. Once cotton gets wet it stays wet until brought indoors to dry. Wet clothing conducts heat away rapidly and that's bad in winter.

Eric B.
 
The shelves are full of decent mountain rifles. Every time my rifle was to heavy, I was also not in good condition. Every time... Not being in fairly good condition is like the difference in going to a theater and watching a movie and going to the theater and watching a movie with a toothache. A "good" movie only makes the experience marginally better if at all. Being in good gym shape isn't the quite the same as hunting shape. There's no substitute for putting on a pair of boots, a back pack and a 10 pound something or other in your hand and going up and down for a while. If you don't have mountains then substitute with a stairwell or bleachers. Oddly enough, a heavy stick of some type helps because you need to work your forearm to keep from it digging into the ground, the same as you rifle. Pulling weight on your shoulders and/or neck and craning your head up is not a natural act but your doing it all day long when hunting. You'll probably get sore and achy. That's fine cause working it out of yourself at home where there's good food, sleep, a bathtub and maybe an extra day or two of rest before you do it again is so much better than just showing up on the mountain, charging hard from the git'go and powering through the pain while your trying to hunt.

Your basic 7-8 lb. rifle and 16 to 22 oz. scope is fine if your in an area that has game in it. If you need to hump 15 miles a day, your just in the wrong place and your gear isn't the problem. If you do need to go 15 miles a day, you need a horse. I find that good balance in a mountain rifle is important. With a long nose-heavy barrel and bipod, your fighting the nose of the rifle from dipping towards the ground when going uphill and it seems your always going uphill. If you have to have a bipod, I'd be considering a quick attach/detatch model for my pack. Barrels from 20" to 24" are about right for the sake of balance. 308 and 30-06 are popular calibers for a mountain rifle but probably a .270 and up will get'er done. Those calibers mentioned specifically aren't important so much as their effective range of operation. A guy ought to be able to reliably make a shot out to 450 yards or so. When you get beyond that in field conditions, a heavier rifle will be your friend. Although this is a long range site, shooting game at more intermediate and closer ranges isn't a sin and as stated earlier, you rifle get a whole lot lighter the less you carry it. Short actions balance a little better but long actions are fine too. Magnum actions can seem hefty in terms of weight and balance and frankly a little more weight might be a good thing for a boomer but if your grip, arm and shoulder have been previously conditioned to carry some weight on the end of it and make micro adjustments for extended periods (all day long), then it's just a thing to deal with but you'll be up for it.

Lately I'm digg'in on a Styer Pro Hunter in 30-06 with a Leopold VX-2, 3x9 as my mountain rifle although as long as it works, anything sorta like it would be just as good. It's probably 8 or 9 lbs all up. It's not "light" but she carries her weight in all the right places (double entendre) and I have confidence in the rig. "Light" rifles have given me inconsistent results at the range and they are usually magnified in the field and carrying them when I'm not in decent condition still beats me up a little so it's better for me anyway, to spend a little bit of time in advance walking a few hills, maybe a scouting trip, going where I've seen game recently and toting a non-extreme rifle that I have confidence in.
 
Jerry,

Altitude (above 6,000 ft.) can tire you if not acclimated and if you don't have a good aerobic base of training. That's the necessary basic conditioning required.

To help me at altitude I take three NO2 tablets one hour before or after breakfast as per the directions.

NO2 is time released L-Arginine,an amino acid that releases dissolved nitRIC gasses into your blood (not nitrous). Like Cialis but in a milder form this time-released form of L-Arginine dilates your blood vessels for better blow supply to you lungs for better O2 uptake and gives your muscles better blood flow. It also helps rid you of lactic acid from the muscles to avoid cramping.

NO2 comes in either "Red" or Black". I prefer "Red". You can buy it at GNC and it's not a cheap date but well worth it.

As for light gear light Gore-Tex boots are the first thing to look at. A pound of weight on the foot is like two pounds on the back in terms of calories burned and effort required. There are a couple of ways to make light boots warmer. Contact me about this with a PM and I can explain. Or go to the "Backpack Hunting" forum and look for the thread on "Footwear Versatility Success". I explained it there. Even Len Bacus is trying my tried and true method.

Also synthetic clothing is not only lighter than cotton or wool (once wool becomes damp from sweat) but synthetics dry far faster than wool. AVOID COTTON at all costs.
Winter backpackers and backcountry skiers have a saying, "cotton kills" and it's true. Once cotton gets wet it stays wet until brought indoors to dry. Wet clothing conducts heat away rapidly and that's bad in winter.

Eric B.
Eric-I looked up NO2 online and the reviews weren't all that great.How did this affect you? I try to stay fit year around and I live where I hunt in the Rockies,but I am always looking for supplements of some kind to help this 58 year old..Yeah I I carry a .270 win lightweight and wear wool clothing...everything else is compact but refuse to give up on wools...they can save my life..
 
My choice for rifle is factory Weatherby Mark V ultra light in 280 Rem wearing a leupold 2.5-8 it shoots lights out comes in about 7lb 4oz loaded with sling. Nothing super fancy but it works for me.
 
Just got back from the 1st week Elk rifle season in Montana. I was not physically prepared for the trip. Walking on the relatively flat areas in MD did not do it. Also, a Pre-64 model 70 with McMillan stock and Nightforce 3.5x15 was not the best choice in rifles to carry on the mountains.

Next time I go I will be better prepared and better (lighter) equipment.

Good luck

Jerry

There's no experience like your own experience.
 
I grew up hunting in the mountains and Im still at it .Its a livestyle for me.Ive tried to get the weight down on items now that im mid 50's and mtns arent smaller.Rifle is 83/4 dressed 338 NM,3-24 March ,level aci.Pack runs 16# with Terrapin,gps,10x32 el's, Strider,caper,flashlight,headlamp,atlas,safetygear,pack a extra layer usually for glassing when get to top.In in the dark out usually dusk unless I anchor something.Internal frame pack and bone out game bag to get started.
 

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I use a Christiansen Arms 300 RUM for my backpacking rifle. Its accurate and reasonably light weight
I agree that getting in shape is important for mountain Huns and do so my self however exercise doesn't replace good practice on managing the overall weight you are packing around. The way I look at it getting in shape allows me hunt harder longer. I work hard to get ready to hunt so I don't want to use up energy carrying more weight than I need to. I have yet to pack out after a successful hunt, pack full of my harvest and not wished I had less weight on my back. Never ever.
 
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