Modifying a carbon fiber stock -- need advice....

[cdherman]

I have a Stockys carbon fiber stock for my LA Savage. Nice light stock -- but due to Savage endless changes in bottom metal, bolt release etc, I am going to need to do some mods.

I am a pretty proficient woodworker. I have sharp chisels and a couple small gouges down to 1/4" I also have a nice selection of 1/8" dremel rotary rasp, stones, files etc. I am less proficient with my dremel tool (though the tool is a joy, an M12 cordless Milwaukee that I can really recommend).

Can I use the chisels to just start taking layer after layer off? Can you "crosscut" a carbon fiber stock? Like cutting endgrain in wood? Wood works with the grain easy (though the grain can sometimes "pull" your tool into the grain, creating a flaw. Does carbon fiber do this? Or is it fairly homogenous?

I have read about using a little paint or super glue, or gel coat to seal afterwards. Not so worried about that. I have a selection of wet/dry sand paper that I might use with a little water to clean up things, but realistically, the modifications are all going to be inside the receiver channel. So who really cares what it looks like, as long as its stable.

Thanks for the advice in advance.....

 

[David_h]

I'm thinking high speed cutting bits and/or discs on a dremel will allow cutting of carbon fibers. They are very resistant to hand tools.

 

[comfisherman]

High speed abrasive is the answer. I'd probably seal with any 2 part epoxy painted on to the bare sections, whatever kit is cheapest at the hardware store.

 

[Phildo62]

The actual carbon-fiber layer on those stocks are very thin 1/16 maybe a hair more. Carbide dremel cutters work good, go slow once you get threw the the carbon shell it's easy to dig/gouge too deep.

 

[Josh06]

I just got a stocky's carbon stock for a LA savage and had to do a little work to it. The trigger was binding. I ended up having to put a washer between the stock and bottom metal on the rear action screw and everything works great now. Before I figured out exactly what was binding I used a dremel to clear out some of the filler, not the actual carbon fiber.

 

[Darryle]

Carbon will delaminate, either use the rotary file with some diamond bits or hand sand.

If you need some raw carbon fiber weave to cover up your modifications, I can help with that. You will need a good epoxy based resin and a release agent or film.

 

[PopNFresh]

probably wear a respirator if you're gonna put a powered cutter on carbon fiber, that dust isn't any good for ya

 

[Darryle]

probably wear a respirator if you're gonna put a powered cutter on carbon fiber, that dust isn't any good for ya

Absolutely, I wear a full face respirator and tyvek suit when sanding or working with cured carbon. Good cut proof or puncture proof glove are a must if you proceed with the chisels. Carbon has linear strength, but little lateral strength, especially in thin layers.

You don't simply pull a carbon splinter out, you either allow it to work it's way out or have it cut out. No fun at all.

 

[Darryle]

This is 4 plies of resin impregnated carbon fiber weave cured under autoclave pressure, once you have a separation, you can scrape it apart

 

[cdherman]

Thank you all for your input. I will try to find out where its hitting and start whittling away with my dremel tool and a burr. I have stones as well. Will see what happens.

Sounds like some of you are suggesting that the carbon fiber is not though and though -- so there is core of ??? I am messing with the core here, The outer layer is fine, just the inletting at a critical point for the savage to allow for a top bolt release. Savage shooters will understand. Its not a lot of material. But I'd rather not bubba a $500 stock.........

 

[Darryle]

Yes, carbon is the wrap, the filler/core is an epoxy based high yield carbon fiber strand foam of sorts. I actually want to go to one of the manufacturers and see the process start to finish for myself.

Get some type of blackening agent, something like Miles Gilbert Inletting Black, charcoal with a little Vaseline or a black grease/wax/colored pencil to mark the action where you think it is hitting hard, or you can rock the action back and forth to imprint on the stock, but that wears on the metal finish. I use colored pencils from the Art store or Amazon. Work slowly and avoid making the action sit too deep in the stock. Just know that you will have to "degrease" the areas you have interference on where the color transfers from the action to the stock.

Carbide burrs will grab in corners, protect all the areas of the stock where you might hit it with the burrs. The reason I like diamond bits, they remove material slowly, they do not chatter and they easier to control. A cheap set from Amazon will last most people a lifetime, we go thru them like a drunk does drive thru tacos.

 

[RWE]

I will leave the carbon fiber matters to Darryle and others, but I also had to open up the trigger guard opening of a stock. Mine was just a fiberglass composite stock and the cutting of it was due to a change in thickness of bottom metal, mine was older, thicker, so I had to remove material to get a flush fit. I bought a router shroud for my dremel and I could set it in increments for depth. Worked great. I colored out of the lines in one spot (sides) but I will fix that one of these days…

Good luck!

 

[David_h]

Thank you all for your input. I will try to find out where its hitting and start whittling away with my dremel tool and a burr. I have stones as well. Will see what happens.

Sounds like some of you are suggesting that the carbon fiber is not though and though -- so there is core of ??? I am messing with the core here, The outer layer is fine, just the inletting at a critical point for the savage to allow for a top bolt release. Savage shooters will understand. Its not a lot of material. But I'd rather not bubba a $500 stock.........

My Stocky's carbon stock on Howa Carbon Stalker 7mm-08 is foam filled in the buttstock, and maybe the forend too. There was through-and-through material between the action and bottom metal plate and maybe pillars too (can't remember. The carbon shell was much thicker near the action but is thinner around the buttstock.