Modified case jig

[parshal]

That's a whole lot cheaper than my $12,000 lathe.

 

[FirstBubba]

Hmmmm.....
I've got a RCBS stuck case remover. It comes with a drill and a tap. For much less than $100, you can drill out a primer pocket and tap it with SAE threads.
Much less trouble than that little gizmo.
...and you can accomplish the same with Cerro-Safe.

 

[tim1457]

This is a lot cheaper.
https://www.creedmoorsports.com/dri...gVF8viPulWcYlYzq2s4Gw5JILTTZgRlQXhXm7c.WA5JkG

 

[cdherman]

Here's what I use. It's a 2x2 drilled 1st with multiple sized holes, then I split it length ways (ripped) to almost the end (not in half).
I insert the brass in the appropriate sized 2x2 hole and place the 2x2 into a vice under my drill press and squeeze the 2x2 to firmly hold the brass. I then use the drill press to bore out the primer pocket. Next, I remove the drill bit and replace it with a tap. I manually turn the drill press arbor by hand to start the tap straight. Then, leaving the started tap in the brass, I remove the tap from the drill press and continue the final tapping by hand. This ensures the drill press doesn't turn the tap too fast stripping the threads.
The hole labeled 308 is used for 6ARC, 6.5CM, 260Rem, 308Win, 30-06, etc. The 300 hole is for magnums.

This folks is advanced thinking outside of the envelope. Its really a great idea and a mosh of wood working capacities and metal working. I'd make it better using maple or some harder wood, but you cannot argue with the outcome as far as I can see. Everything in his process makes total sense, bet it can be replicated easily if you have a drill press, a table saw and some brains....

 

[FirstBubba]

This folks is advanced thinking outside of the envelope. Its really a great idea and a mosh of wood working capacities and metal working. I'd make it better using maple or some harder wood, but you cannot argue with the outcome as far as I can see. Everything in his process makes total sense, bet it can be replicated easily if you have a drill press, a table saw and some brains....

OH NO!!!
Not BRAINS!?!?

 

[KTP]

Cool! I have been making my own modified case for quite some time now. It cost me <$10 for the drill and tap. Since I already have a portable drill press, it works like a champ for me.

I am a sucker for innovation, and might still invest in one. Thanks for sharing.

Did the same thing….

 

[TennJed]

Here's what I use. It's a 2x2 drilled 1st with multiple sized holes, then I split it length ways (ripped) to almost the end (not in half).
I insert the brass in the appropriate sized 2x2 hole and place the 2x2 into a vice under my drill press and squeeze the 2x2 to firmly hold the brass. I then use the drill press to bore out the primer pocket. Next, I remove the drill bit and replace it with a tap. I manually turn the drill press arbor by hand to start the tap straight. Then, leaving the started tap in the brass, I remove the tap from the drill press and continue the final tapping by hand. This ensures the drill press doesn't turn the tap too fast stripping the threads.
The hole labeled 308 is used for 6ARC, 6.5CM, 260Rem, 308Win, 30-06, etc. The 300 hole is for magnums.

Great idea! Making one shortly

 

[Proclaim]

The only thing that is missing in this process is chamfering the hole you just drilled and tapped to remove the flashing on the outside edge of the hole. This flashing can create false readings with your caliper.

 

[JustMe2]

The only thing that is missing in this process is chamfering the hole you just drilled and tapped to remove the flashing on the outside edge of the hole. This flashing can create false readings with your caliper.

Yes, that might be necessary. I can't remember if I had to file/camfer my primer hole level after tapping. I don't remove my cartridge from the Hornady gauge when I measure CBTO, consequently, my calipers don't get near the primer hole.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

Most of my modified cases were made by Hornady after I sent them a few fired pieces of brass. IIRC the current cost is $20 plus the $5 to ship my cases to them. That $100 kit would pay for itself awfully fast for anyone just getting started. Although I can't imagine working with another 4 new cartridges, I just might grab one of these kits.

Thanks to the poster who provided the info.

 

[Proclaim]

Yes, that might be necessary. I can't remember if I had to file/camfer my primer hole level after tapping. I don't remove my cartridge from the Hornady gauge when I measure CBTO, consequently, my calipers don't get near the primer hole.

The Hornady gauge screws completely up inside the threads of the case head. You HAVE TO measure up against the base of the case head to get correct measurements. Obviously you leave the case attached to the gauge while measuring.

 

[Mike D Texas]

This is a lot cheaper.
https://www.creedmoorsports.com/dri...gVF8viPulWcYlYzq2s4Gw5JILTTZgRlQXhXm7c.WA5JkG

The problem I've had with that kit is crushing the cases out of round.

 

[landonm]

Can't believe I missed this thread, guys. Creator of the RYT Gear Modified Case Jig Kit here! I'll try and folllow up on a few of the questions asked and comments made, but I'm here to help or answer any other questions.

Like a lot of reloaders I fought the modified case conundrum for years and finally figured out this tool to make it easy for those of us whithout a lathe at home to make our own modified cases quickly and easily.

I tried all the solutions mentioned here (and several even crazier), with varying degrees of success. The wood block or V clamp design can work "alright" if you have a drill press, but still presents challenges with malformed cases, spinning, straightness and concentricity. This little tool just works and all you need is a cordless drill.

Holler if I can do anything at all to help out or answer questions!

Landon Michaels
RYT Gear

 

[vern.284]

Awesome I feel like I just met a movie star lol..thank for you product I did order one, but have not used it yet. It.seems very well built and look forward to saving some money over the years. Thank you