Mechanics vs non

[ARlife4me]

When torqueing optic rings/mounts do you do it in a sequence (4 per ring or 6 per ring)? If so why and what made your decision?

Keeping the top halves evenly spaced on both sides is understandable, but how are you doing a 4 screw per ring or a 6 per ring?

The mechanic in me stems from head, mains or manifold torque sequencing.

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

When torqueing optic rings/mounts do you do it in a sequence (4 per ring or 6 per ring)? If so why and what made your decision?

Keeping the top halves evenly spaced on both sides is understandable, but how are you doing a 4 screw per ring or a 6 per ring?

The mechanic in me stems from head, mains or manifold torque sequencing.

I do same as you. I revert to head torquing also. lol

 

[Miket757]

I torque 4 screw rings in a criss cross sequence as well usually tighten halfway then to final spec. 6 screw I'll start in the middle and work out. Head bolt torque method works for me because I'm a mechanic too LoL

 

[338 dude]

Same as above from the middle out or diagonally, but I do opposite sides on each ring to try and keep the scope from rotating as it is torque down

 

[ObiWanKannoli]

Up middle, down middle, up right, down left, down right, up left. I call it the Contra sequence.

 

[ntsqd]

4 screw rings are tightened like a 4 lug wheel. 6 screw rings are tightened from the middle out also using a 6 lug lug nut tightening pattern. Been doing it that way for ~30 years. Partly why I hate vertical split rings. They also remind me of the first scope rings that I ever owned. Buehler's with their shave shims. Nightmare just thinking about those.

 

[lancetkenyon]

Just like a 4-lug wheel. Top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right. Repeat.

I get the ring cap on level (same gap on each side). Finger tight all 4 screws). Then, 1/8 turn in above pattern. I also keep a level on the scope to check to make sure the rings caps are not twisting the scope in the rings as I tighten.

Use a GOOD in/lbs torque wrench or torque screwdriver. Not a cheap Harbor Freight one.

Or you can go to the ARC M-Brace rings...easiest and fastest rings to mount I have ever used.

 

[jrock]

Ditto, alternating the screw tightening on the first ring helps to keep the scope level in the rings and gap even.

 

[JustMe2]

If you tighten all the screws on one side and then all on the other side, your scope will twist and most likely not be level. If you started tightening with the scope level, it will change. Other than that and how it looks, it doesn't matter as long as the torque is correct for your rings. Ring torque values vary depending on manufacturer. Some rings have a hinge on only one side and screws on the other, so it doesn't matter.

 

[ntsqd]

With 4 screws I make the same-side/edge movements in the tightening pattern go across the scope rather than down one side of it. So top-left, Bottom-Right, Top-Right, Bottom-Left; repeat. I have no data that suggests that it matters except that my CDO won't allow me to do it any other way.

 

[skipglo]

When torqueing optic rings/mounts do you do it in a sequence (4 per ring or 6 per ring)? If so why and what made your decision?

Keeping the top halves evenly spaced on both sides is understandable, but how are you doing a 4 screw per ring or a 6 per ring?

The mechanic in me stems from head, mains or manifold torque sequencing.

Repeatable (x) pattern....on both 4 and 6...leave out the center 2 on 6 s.... Tighten them at the last! Just me

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

Repeatable (x) pattern....on both 4 and 6...leave out the center 2 on 6 s.... Tighten them at the last! Just me

On a six screw I start in the center. Think of a intake manifold or head gasket. Just me. lol

 

[Darryle]

I start with a set of feeler gauges under the edges of each cap once I have established the correct spacing, usually between .029" and .032" depending on the brand. Then I use the same method as most, criss/cross like lug nuts to slowly get them to the recommended torque. It helps me keep the gap correct once I start. It's an OCD thing for me more than a guarantee thing.

Started because a coworker was struggling with a rifle and it's lack of consistency. Took him to the range and one session behind the rifle drove me crazy looking at a huge gap on one side and none on the other along with the canted reticle. Turns out one loose base and poor mounting skills, actually complete lack of skills were his issue. Removed everything, cleaned it up, remounted and properly torqued and the rifle went from fliers making groups grow up to about 4" at 100yds with no repeatable pattern, just all over the target to 3 shot groups right at an 1" at 100yds.


Two sets of these and you are in business, takes seconds and the narrow tip usually fits between the 2 screws and stays in place until you get your gap established, level the reticle and then they easily pull out. First time is a little awkward, but you soon get a method and rhythm going. A little Plano slotted box keeps them organized.

 

[BillLarson]

TORQUE advise recommendations are just a guide line.... a general piece of advise.complicated by:
the accuracy of the T.wrench,the thread class fit,of threads,lubed or dry,coeffcient of friction between finishes of similar or dissimilar metals,the actual finish of each thread.....