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MAXIMUM powder load for...

Each rifle is different, loads need to be worked up in every rifle. No one can give you a maximum in your rifle through their keyboard
 
According to Hodgdon/IMR 7828 and 7828 SSC have the same burn rate and you use the same load data for 7828 as 7828 SSC. The Hodgdon's reloading site indicates 74 gr max load for 7828 with 208 gr A-Max. It also indicates this is a compressed load for 7828. Since 7828 SSC is designed to pack better, this load may not be compressed for SSC. Hodgdon's shows 62,000 psi at this load. It lists 68 as starting load.
 
Hey guys, thanks for the info so far. I am aware that all rifle are different and am also aware of what the Hornady manual says.
My rifle is a relatively new H-S Precision HTR with 1-10" rate of twist 26" barrel.
What I am looking for is any anecdotal information you guys may have with reloading this caliber/cartridge in the real world.
Generally speaking, the reloading manuals play it safe by as much as 10%, sooo...
...the question still stands"What are some SAFE maximum loads ya'll have used?"
Again, thank you.
 
You probably can not get enough of that powder in the case to be over max. Start below book max and do the work up is my suggestion.
 
Originally Posted by Axl
Each rifle is different, loads need to be worked up in every rifle. No one can give you a maximum in your rifle through their keyboard
Originally Posted by RT2506
You probably can not get enough of that powder in the case to be over max. Start below book max and do the work up is my suggestion.
Originally Posted by scalpel7777
Generally speaking, the reloading manuals play it safe by as much as 10%, sooo...
...the question still stands"What are some SAFE maximum loads ya'll have used?"
Again, thank you.
Where the question doesn't change, the answer remains the same.
Even if we provided you with specific load information there is nothing we have used that will work as safely or accurately in your rifle. You have to do the grunt work yourself.

It is true that you will receive some responses that tell you "I use xxxx and it works great". IMO, mature experienced reloaders won't do that because they know the information is misleading and, more often, meaningless. Experienced reloaders know that you can blow your had off at either end of the scale (extremely high loads or extremely low) and they're not going to risk leading you astray.
 
The very best advice you can get is to start low and work up your load. These fellas here that are telling you to do that have years of experience. Be smart and take their advice.
 
The very best advice you can get is to start low and work up your load. These fellas here that are telling you to do that have years of experience. Be smart and take their advice.

Especially this time of year. A load that is max in someone's rifle during hunting season (cold weather), may be excessive in your rifle if you load it during these hot summer months.
 
I have read lots of threads where people are running up to 79gr of H1000 with a Berger 215 in win brass in a 300win mag. That doesn't mean it would work in my rifle. I worked up to 78 and had quite heavy bolt lift. Primer pockets were shot at 76gr on once fired brass. Loads always need to be worked up in any rifle.
 
Thank you all very much. I appreciate the input and sage advice.



When I acquire a new (to me) fire arm ,I load up from the middle of the load range table from the bullet manufacture table.
6 rounds at each charge, increasing with .5 grains per charge .
I use a large white poster board with 9 red dots equally spaced on the board, kind of like tic tack toe.
I use a sharpie to write grain on the case, so I can check for pressure signs for that charge.
3 rounds for each charge I will use a different color sharpie and coat the bullet.
that color will leave trace on the holes in the white poster board.
I use 9 on my target because I have 9 different colors.
the other three I will shoot through a crono for velocity, noting all weather data for ballistics calculation when I find that sweet spot.
muzzle velocity is not so much as important as that tight group. that tight group comes from a charge that give out a harmonics that your barrel likes.
good harmonics and a heavy bullet will buck the wind longer than a light round that is loaded just for max mv.
7.62 nato Hornady 150 FMJBT with mv of 2750 =980 yards at 1131.7 fps,426 ft lbs
7.62 nato Hornady 208 ELD MATCH with mv of 2500 =1410 yards at 1134.7 fps,594 ft lbs
and you will use less powder with the heavier bullet . aprox 42 gn vs 40 gn ( that's 5%)
settle on a round you can control .not just the fastest. that target doesn't know the difference in mv.
I know I used .308 win as an example, (that's what I have in .308) but if you do the research most all calibers follow this pattern.

like I said , I am not telling anyone how to do it. I am just saying how I do it.
 
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