Match Grade Barrell break in procedures

[jonboy2014]

I am new to long range hunting. That being said I am curious as to what differentiates the correct procedure for breaking in a new MG barrel. I purchased a 24 in BB in 308 from a custom barrel builder. His instructions were to shoot one round and clean letting it sit in barrel for 5 to 10 mins. 100 times. I have spoken with others about this procedure and they are perplexed by this. What would be your ideas as to this procedure ?

 

[J E Custom]

I am new to long range hunting. That being said I am curious as to what differentiates the correct procedure for breaking in a new MG barrel. I purchased a 24 in BB in 308 from a custom barrel builder. His instructions were to shoot one round and clean letting it sit in barrel for 5 to 10 mins. 100 times. I have spoken with others about this procedure and they are perplexed by this. What would be your ideas as to this procedure ?

I am a believer in barrel break in , But 100 Rounds ? Normally the barrel will tell you when it is broke in by ease of clean up (Normally 7 to 15 rounds on a high quality barrel and any where from 15 to 30 rounds on a factory barrel) If it doesn't clean up/ break in after 20 or so rounds you are wasting your time.

Shoot and clean after each round and you can feel the improvement in the barrel.

I also recommend after the first 7 to 10 shots you can go to firing two shots and cleaning for
around 5 sets. the main thing is to let the barrel cool between shots (5+ minutes).

Brake in is a slow process and if it took 100 shots you would be at the range for about a week.

Just my opinion

J E CUSTOM

 

[Jluck]

I am new to long range hunting. That being said I am curious as to what differentiates the correct procedure for breaking in a new MG barrel. I purchased a 24 in BB in 308 from a custom barrel builder. His instructions were to shoot one round and clean letting it sit in barrel for 5 to 10 mins. 100 times. I have spoken with others about this procedure and they are perplexed by this. What would be your ideas as to this procedure ?

Your barrel "builder" wants too sell more barrels. You should name them so I know to avoid 'em.

 

[J E Custom]

Your barrel "builder" wants too sell more barrels. You should name them so I know to avoid 'em.

To the original Poster;

I really don't need to know who the barrel maker is, because I already have a great barrel maker
and I am sure others do also. But the 100 rounds concerns me because if the barrel has not started improvement by 15 or 20 rounds it is bad and should be discarded or excepted as a poor choice.

The thing to do is start a normal brake in on your barrel and it should tell you what you need to do after 10 rounds.

I don't know anyone that could last 100 rounds of brake in, so maybe he just wants you to do as good as you can before you give up and start to enjoy your rifle. The 308 will last thousands of rounds so a good brake in will be good. on cartridges that are bad on barrels limited brake in is recommended (7 to 12 rounds).

You already have the barrel, so make the best of it and hope he is wrong about needing 100 rounds of brake in.

Good luck

J E CUSTOM

 

[jonboy2014]

Thanks for all replies to my question. I just want to add that this barrel maker has an excellent track record. His barrels are bullet button pulled and lapped. I had a gunsmith say it may be due to bad lapping procedures by manufacturer. I do understand that during cleaning and break in process involves watching how much cleaning is necessary between each break in shooting. ie copper fouling. If I do five shots with cleaning and wait time procedure between each shot and let the barrel tell me when it is properly broken in is the way to go ? Probably 5 for 25 rounds total or so would be appropriate ? I was told by gunsmith the barrel will let you know based on less and less copper fouling

 

[KYpatriot]

I shoot bartleins, and did the shoot and clean method for 5 rounds. Then go have fun. I dont even clean them until 100 rds or so, and even then I do it because I can't stand it anymore. I think cleaning is overrated unless you don't shoot very often, or you have a very high capacity case like the improved lapuas, cheytac, allen mag stuff. I would clean if the rifle was in the rain/fog/high humidity, if I was not going to shoot it for awhile, or if accuracy started dropping off.

I have gone over 400 rds in a 308winchester and it still shot its usual half moa.

I am not a benchrest shooter, that maybe different, but for hunting or tactical rifles I think more harm than good is done by cleaning too much with the exceptions I noted above.
Just my opinion, but when you do clean you need to be very careful, use a good bore guide, clean the rod after each pass, protect the muzzle, etc.
Cleaning 100 times for barrel break in? That's crazy talk lol. I'd have to figure it but Out of all the rifles I have owned and shot for years I doubt I have ever cleaned 100 times combined.

 

[Jluck]

To the original Poster;

I really don't need to know who the barrel maker is, because I already have a great barrel maker
and I am sure others do also. But the 100 rounds concerns me because if the barrel has not started improvement by 15 or 20 rounds it is bad and should be discarded or excepted as a poor choice.

The thing to do is start a normal brake in on your barrel and it should tell you what you need to do after 10 rounds.

I don't know anyone that could last 100 rounds of brake in, so maybe he just wants you to do as good as you can before you give up and start to enjoy your rifle. The 308 will last thousands of rounds so a good brake in will be good. on cartridges that are bad on barrels limited brake in is recommended (7 to 12 rounds).

You already have the barrel, so make the best of it and hope he is wrong about needing 100 rounds of brake in.

Good luck

J E CUSTOM

The other 13K people here might want to know.

 

[jonboy2014]

The reasoning of doing this procedure was to properly have a correct amount of copper buildup in the leades and grooves. He claims doing it that way 100 etc is the correct way to accomplish a balanced amount in the barrel. Over amounts of copper can lead to fouling the grooves etc. I don/t know if this is something I need to worry about. I do know that after cleaning several other barrels in store bought guns the copper fouling does become less and less noticeable in time. I guess I will try and get to 100 rnds but not one shot at a time. Anyone else's opinion will be much appreciated. Don't know if anyone has ever been on You Tube but there is a guy Tiborasaurus Rex that is quite knowledgable in LR shooting and he stays with the 5 to 25 round break in and the fouling of copper left on cleaning patch to determine when gun is functioning at it's best. After 5 rounds clean and compare each 5 rounds for 25 total and if copper fouling is at it's usual amount each time it is broken in at that point. Agree or disagree ?

 

[marshal]

Ever seen Border barrels procedure? 5 days to break in a bbl! I'm not sure they are even around anymore. But they were premium bbls.

 

[KYpatriot]

I know with some factory barrels I have had, non customs, that you don't want to take all the copper out. I have a Remington that won't shoot well after cleaning until it has 20 rds or so down it, then it shoots back to normal. My theory is that it might have some roughness that gets smoothed by the copper. Not sure.

 

[jonboy2014]

Factory barrels and Match Grade are different animals. Factory are usually chrome lined and MGB are CMV. No liner. Copper adheres differently to each type. From what I have read you need to find an equalibrium of correct copper amounts adhering to barrel. Too much affects accuracy as well as to little. Placement of shots will tell between cleanings. The break in and cleaning will show after x amounts of shooting and cleaning. Same amount of copper coloration on patches will testify as to when you are at the break in you need to be. Along with MOA.

 

[shortgrass]

"Factory barrels are usually chrome lined" ,,, since when?? The only chrome lined barrels I familiar with are those for ARs or other 'military' style rifles. Sav., Rem. Win., Ruger don't chrome line their rifle barrels. MGB (match grade barrels? ) are CMV (chrome moly vandium?) . Again,, since when? Lots of match grade barrels are made of 416R stainless steel, and every barrel maker has their own 'formula' for the steel they use. Some have vandium, some don't. Vandium not being the chemical element that determines "match grade" or not, only the quality of the work done to that steel can determine that. As for "break-in", a properly hand lapped barrel needs very little, in my experience. Usually less than 15 rds., and I've used and installed a lot of match grade barrels from many different makers (Kriegers, Harts, Bartliens, Shilens, Brux, Pac-Nor, Rock Creek, Broughton). Jacket hardness of the bullets being used will make a difference. I don't think I'd used bullets designed for varminting to "break-in" a barrel with. Any barrel marketed as "custom" thats not lapped is just a 'wanna-be', regardless of the type of steel it's made of. Chrome lining adds to barrel life and corrosion resistance, but not to the accuracy of a barrel. Some factory barrels never seem to "break-in", and true match grade barrels don't need "fouling shots" to be accurate.

 

[Jluck]

There is just a bunch of bad information based opinions (including second hand) and conjecture in this toxic thread. Not all of it but a lot.

I would suspect the OP misunderstood the maker on break in with his new barrel, Since the company hasn't been named to possibly clear the air or defend themselves.

Note to the majority of folk out there who don't "know it all" or already have a "great barrel maker", Don't use this thread as a criteria for research for your new stick or as a break in guide.


FWIW, A 100 round break in session with a 7RUM, You could have a junk barrel before you are done with breakin.

 

[jonboy2014]

I maybe should have specified I am talking about an AR 10 platform. I know MGB are made in stainless as I had my choice when I bought mine. I am not new to knowledge about barrels but am about MGB for break in procedures. My original posting was to get opinions on procedures compared to the one that was instructed by mfg of my barrel break in. By the way it is Vanadium not Vandium. The rest of your info I knew. Vanadium is an element in the steel for hardness and corrosion resistance.