FatBoy...
Well-Known Member
I'll be ordering an Oehler 35P in the next day or so,, but before I do I was wondering if anyone knows of an outfit selling them under the standard $345.
FatBoy...
FatBoy...
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SOLD/EXPIRED Looking for Oehler 35P
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Ian M
Well-Known Member
Chris,
I have never heard of anyone cutting the factory price, good luck on that.
I use the 35P a lot, a while back when Brent was deciding on buying one I put some info regarding setting up the 35P, stands, recording procedure etc. You might find that archived. I like to keep my units in Tuffboxes, with a complete set of set-up accessories and spare parts in each kit. Have a fairly elaborate stand set-up using two camera tripods. Anyhow, make sure you buy at least one extra skyscreen, and a couple of extra bodies. Also Oehler's price on the stands is hard to beat - they are fairly lightweight but work well.
You will enjoy the 35P, it just plain works.
The factory folk are great to deal with. Better get the order in quick because they will be heading to the SHOT show shortly.
I have never heard of anyone cutting the factory price, good luck on that.
I use the 35P a lot, a while back when Brent was deciding on buying one I put some info regarding setting up the 35P, stands, recording procedure etc. You might find that archived. I like to keep my units in Tuffboxes, with a complete set of set-up accessories and spare parts in each kit. Have a fairly elaborate stand set-up using two camera tripods. Anyhow, make sure you buy at least one extra skyscreen, and a couple of extra bodies. Also Oehler's price on the stands is hard to beat - they are fairly lightweight but work well.
You will enjoy the 35P, it just plain works.
The factory folk are great to deal with. Better get the order in quick because they will be heading to the SHOT show shortly.
Brent
Well-Known Member
Chris,
I never found a better deal than the normal price either. I actuall traded one of my Crony F1 for the one just before I ordered one, just got lucky. I was actually debating on just getting the M43 instead when I foud out they were $900.00 not $2000.00 like I'd heard. I happened upon one of them for $400.00 right before I ended up finding the 35P, whould you believe that! And I got all of the accecories you can get for it WITH it too, which amount to over another 1000 buck. I think I was the luckiest guy on the plannet that week!!!
I recently bought a Starlight case for mine to haul around in the Polaris 6x6. I just keep the Oehler stands, rail and diffusers all in a soft guncase I tote around too. Takes me about 5 minutes to set up and alighn with the bore and I'm ready to shoot. It plugs into the 35P or the M43 either one, just need the laptop along with the 43 though. I have to get another Starlight before I start packin the 43 and the laptop around on the wheeler though.
These Starlights are the cats meow men! The first time out with it I couldn't get the **** thing open though!?? I had to unscrew the airlock, it had so much vacuum it wouldn't even budge!!
I thought it had frozen shut!!
It took a big breath of air and opened right up.
[ 02-07-2003: Message edited by: Brent ]
I never found a better deal than the normal price either. I actuall traded one of my Crony F1 for the one just before I ordered one, just got lucky. I was actually debating on just getting the M43 instead when I foud out they were $900.00 not $2000.00 like I'd heard. I happened upon one of them for $400.00 right before I ended up finding the 35P, whould you believe that! And I got all of the accecories you can get for it WITH it too, which amount to over another 1000 buck. I think I was the luckiest guy on the plannet that week!!!
I recently bought a Starlight case for mine to haul around in the Polaris 6x6. I just keep the Oehler stands, rail and diffusers all in a soft guncase I tote around too. Takes me about 5 minutes to set up and alighn with the bore and I'm ready to shoot. It plugs into the 35P or the M43 either one, just need the laptop along with the 43 though. I have to get another Starlight before I start packin the 43 and the laptop around on the wheeler though.
These Starlights are the cats meow men! The first time out with it I couldn't get the **** thing open though!?? I had to unscrew the airlock, it had so much vacuum it wouldn't even budge!!
[ 02-07-2003: Message edited by: Brent ]
Ian M
Well-Known Member
Brent,
The Starlight is the way to go for that kind of case. Unfortunately the competition for the Starlight, which is the Pelican or Browning Travel Vault has a serious problem with real cold weather. When cold and dropped the Starlight dents, the other case breaks and cracks. Just different plastic. Have seen several Pelicans/Brownings that had no corners left from being dropped in really cold weather. Corners broke away in big chunks, you could see the foam inside.
I lined my Tuffboxes with closed cell foam and they hold the 35P's in place for traveling, but they are not water and dustproof like a Starlight.
Chris, order a few extra diffuser screens and side bars also, might as well be prepared for the day one of your buddies rifles a 175 Matchking through a Skyscreen. You know that you have a problem when you see a bunch of yellow and black plastic flying through the sight picture.
The Starlight is the way to go for that kind of case. Unfortunately the competition for the Starlight, which is the Pelican or Browning Travel Vault has a serious problem with real cold weather. When cold and dropped the Starlight dents, the other case breaks and cracks. Just different plastic. Have seen several Pelicans/Brownings that had no corners left from being dropped in really cold weather. Corners broke away in big chunks, you could see the foam inside.
I lined my Tuffboxes with closed cell foam and they hold the 35P's in place for traveling, but they are not water and dustproof like a Starlight.
Chris, order a few extra diffuser screens and side bars also, might as well be prepared for the day one of your buddies rifles a 175 Matchking through a Skyscreen. You know that you have a problem when you see a bunch of yellow and black plastic flying through the sight picture.
Brent
Well-Known Member
Ian,
The Starlights airlock screw will not vibrate out and disappear on a plane trip like the Pelican can either. I'm happy I got it and like you said, I thought of it breaking in the cold so I bit the bullet and bought it instead of the cheaper Doskil or another they had. I actually wanted the Full length one to keep the screens on the rail and everything else in too, but it won't fit on the wheeler to my liking. Remounting the screens each time is a small price to pay for portability in "my" case.
I actually have two sets of screens and diffusers but only use the one set for whatever I'm using. The ones I got with the 35P, one of the tops had ben shot in two. I taped it back together, top and bottom and it still works. I have a two foot rail as well but always use the 4 footer even though the accuracy isn't degraded with the 2 footer all too bad. I think the screens being on the rail aimed straight up exactly paralell is probably much more important though. I use it cause I got it, much like the M43. I almost feel guilty for not using the 35P hardly at all any more and many of these guys would love to have one. I keep it as a back up though.
The Starlights airlock screw will not vibrate out and disappear on a plane trip like the Pelican can either. I'm happy I got it and like you said, I thought of it breaking in the cold so I bit the bullet and bought it instead of the cheaper Doskil or another they had. I actually wanted the Full length one to keep the screens on the rail and everything else in too, but it won't fit on the wheeler to my liking. Remounting the screens each time is a small price to pay for portability in "my" case.
I actually have two sets of screens and diffusers but only use the one set for whatever I'm using. The ones I got with the 35P, one of the tops had ben shot in two. I taped it back together, top and bottom and it still works. I have a two foot rail as well but always use the 4 footer even though the accuracy isn't degraded with the 2 footer all too bad. I think the screens being on the rail aimed straight up exactly paralell is probably much more important though. I use it cause I got it, much like the M43. I almost feel guilty for not using the 35P hardly at all any more and many of these guys would love to have one. I keep it as a back up though.
FatBoy...
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. I ordered one from the factory yesterday.
Today a gent offered one up for $275. Might be worth it for someone to jump on... It's on snipers hide in the sales section.
FatBoy...
Today a gent offered one up for $275. Might be worth it for someone to jump on... It's on snipers hide in the sales section.
FatBoy...
Ian M
Well-Known Member
Brent,
I have an elaborate setup for holding my screens that involves two camera tripods with adjustable heads so I can move each end of the rod in any direction. Seems that the more parallel to the flight of the bullet the screens are set, the lower the pairs of readings are. I always check the two readings and can reduce their spread by moving one end of the screen bar up or down a tiny amount.
My screens get beatup really badly by the **** muzzleloader sabots - they take chunks out of the diffusers. I have baffles that protect the skyscreens, use a plywood baffle at close range to protect from sabots and when I put a machine downrange I have steel plates, either on stands or simply use a 4 footer from my long range target steel.
I have shot through the screens quite a bit out at 500, hope to do some out to 700 this summer. Would be nice to have 700-1000 yards of cable for the accoustics and the 43.
I have an elaborate setup for holding my screens that involves two camera tripods with adjustable heads so I can move each end of the rod in any direction. Seems that the more parallel to the flight of the bullet the screens are set, the lower the pairs of readings are. I always check the two readings and can reduce their spread by moving one end of the screen bar up or down a tiny amount.
My screens get beatup really badly by the **** muzzleloader sabots - they take chunks out of the diffusers. I have baffles that protect the skyscreens, use a plywood baffle at close range to protect from sabots and when I put a machine downrange I have steel plates, either on stands or simply use a 4 footer from my long range target steel.
I have shot through the screens quite a bit out at 500, hope to do some out to 700 this summer. Would be nice to have 700-1000 yards of cable for the accoustics and the 43.
Ian M
Well-Known Member
Brent,
That above statement was clear as mud. I said - Seems that the more parallel to the flight of the bullet the screens are set, the lower the pairs of readings are.
What I meant was - Seems that the more parallel to the flight of the bullet the screens are set, the lower the difference between the pairs of readings.
In other words you might get 3125/3134 and if you adjust one screen you will get 3130/3134. Lots of times I can get the difference to hold at 3 or 4 fps or less consistently.
That above statement was clear as mud. I said - Seems that the more parallel to the flight of the bullet the screens are set, the lower the pairs of readings are.
What I meant was - Seems that the more parallel to the flight of the bullet the screens are set, the lower the difference between the pairs of readings.
In other words you might get 3125/3134 and if you adjust one screen you will get 3130/3134. Lots of times I can get the difference to hold at 3 or 4 fps or less consistently.
Brent
Well-Known Member
No, I understood you.
I never thought of doing that. It makes perfect sense, I'll try it. Thanks for the tip. Velocity always fluctuates on the proof crony near zero, high and low. I just attributed it to the proof screen spacing being only 2 ft instead of 4, and just not as accurate. I did have one time it was high by about 30 fps but I didn't have the screw in the dimple on the rail all the way.
You'll have to post a pic of your tripod setup and steel target frame too. You have peaked my intrest.
I have the tripod adapter of Oehlers, but never have used it. The stands of theirs work fine for now.
take care,
I never thought of doing that. It makes perfect sense, I'll try it. Thanks for the tip. Velocity always fluctuates on the proof crony near zero, high and low. I just attributed it to the proof screen spacing being only 2 ft instead of 4, and just not as accurate. I did have one time it was high by about 30 fps but I didn't have the screw in the dimple on the rail all the way.
You'll have to post a pic of your tripod setup and steel target frame too. You have peaked my intrest.
I have the tripod adapter of Oehlers, but never have used it. The stands of theirs work fine for now.
take care,
