Leveling the Scope Reticle for Long Range Rifles

I get mine close with a bubble level then hang a plumbob with a bright line ,I then look downthe bore and make sure it isstraight up and downin the bore.theni lock it in tbe vise andmake sure the verticle line in the scope lines up with the line and is still straight in the bore. I then shoot to verify.this method has been good on all rifles I use for long range.

Yes, that part I understand,,, but I'm hoping to find out if the 5 bullets are dead center on the Bulls eye at 100 yards, and after cranking the turret up too the stop,,, 30 MOA's then the next string of 5 bullets hit too the "Right" of the plum line that would ruffly be about 29" high.

Which way do I turn the scope ???

I would think too the "Left" as it would bring it towards the line.

Don
 
This drawing is cross hairs canted too the Left. I should of drawn it canted too the Right,,, my bad...


So if the bullets are dead center on the Bulls eye at the bottom of the target,,, then the dial is cranked too the very top I hope the next 5 bullets are 29" high dead center on the plum line. This is what's suppose to happen.

Example:
After turning the turret too the very top,,, "turret stop" that would be about 30 MOA up.
I put the cross hairs back on the Bulls eye at the bottom of the tall target and lunch 5 shots,,, let's say they hit too the Right of the plum line by 2",,, the bullets will hit the tall target high,,, 29" inches... do I turn the scope too the left so I can get the next 5 bullets too hit the plum line dead center of this line.

Don
 
I'll do my 22 Cal rifle first.

Hard too believe that if the bullets would hitting on the right side of the plum line that I need too tip it further too the Right/ "Clock-wize" so it brings the bullets too the left.

Strange indeed as it throws my train of thought right out the window.

Don at trying this idea in the field,,, kinda strange as I attempt too make this happen too find out how far I can get those bullets too fly further from the plum line.
 
So all very interesting but what about the people that can't see vertical those with corneal astigmatism ?? Do they level the reticle to the leveling device and use it looking crooked or do they level it to their eye and use it canted to the action ?
If you can answer that your a genius .
 
If it's hitting right, turn rotate the scope left. If you set things up like Iyotehunt says, you will never experience the issue in the first place.

I totally agree.

Our team Canada FTR fellow is on the Bulls eye and dead center on the tall target line at 100 meters,,, then he does the box test with 20 MOA as conformation too this cant.

His box is totally square with no off-set...

He said it is one less thing that he doesn't have to compensate for.
Yes that he adjusts for spin drift and wind at different ranges.

He's pretty set on his ways, rightfully so as it won him a spot on the Canadian National team.

Some folks aren't into this stuff, but I'm up-ing my game plan since I have the time and resources too get there.

It might not make a lick of difference, but getting the "cant" too true zero on the middle of the line might improve my odds.

I will be up against the best of the best here in our Americas,,, so I need too max out all my abilities too even get onto these folks tail feather.

Not sure if you know Brian Litz,,, this will be the league I'm attempting to close the gap on.

I'm self funded with no sponcer ship funding,,, much like my good friend C Ganter that compete in Full Bore and TR class all around the world with the humbled best of what the world offers.

Too get into the top 500 is tuff too do, he ranked in the 200 class with his own home built rifle.

He was very lucky too be part of it as I try my part too step up my game plan.

Yes, the rifle is part of it,,, but my human actions on how I get there puts this package in perspective.

Thanks all for the help as I do what I need doing.

PS: The road is long, how we get there is depending on the signs we see, how we read into and out-of them depends on how far we "choose" too venture.

Don from Western Canada.

Life is grand when we travel our world
 
So all very interesting but what about the people that can't see vertical those with corneal astigmatism ?? Do they level the reticle to the leveling device and use it looking crooked or do they level it to their eye and use it canted to the action ?
If you can answer that your a genius .

Which of these folks are going to the World National F CLASS Match in Ireland next year ???

Don
 
The Corneal sight, or peep hole works good for folks that have horizontal leveling eye issues.

Some of these folks compete in our TR class / free hand as there Bulls eye ring is 10" @ 900 meters,,, ours in F Class is 5" @ the 9 mark.

The trick is many years of consistency. Fred is closing in on year 75 of shooting,,, and 60 + at the match level.


Every shot has too be the same shooting position, same rest, same hold, same everything. Eric is on the same level as Fred.


A fraction of cant makes a big difference at range for this guys at that range.

All 8 of these guys are pushing their 80's young, we just lost our old-timer of 92 young this year.
The fab 3 in this photo have 180+ years combined in TR CLASS.


Don't be fooled my friends, angle of rifle / or canted can make or break a match card of a 100 points 15 shots at each of the 7, 8, and 900 M line.

Leaning or Canted rifle makes for more adjustments,,, then on top of that is calculations added to the mix at different ranges on top of barometric pressure, altitude, temperature, wind(s), and drifting target in the mirages as it dances across the range down range.

If one thinks that canted rifles too sights doesn't make a difference,,, then feel free too switch shoulders and try the other eye at this 7 too 900 meter range.

I'm ambidextrous at shooting and other activities, "but" I perform my best in the left hand rifle category because my rifles and I are both set-up in the most relaxed position we can be in.

As I've mentioned before, canted "might" nit make much of a difference at 100 too 300 yards,,, but get past the 600 yard line too 1000 yards is a different bear-cat.

Free fun shoot beyond that makes it even harder too hit the iron gongs...

Don from Western Canada
 
Yesterday, ...

For the sake of science, I'm going to leave the rifle alone until I have the opportuinity to shoot a few rounds as is; probably next weekend. First check how out of plumb my eyeballs are then I'll use the Ring True to re-setup the scope as per the instructions.

If there is anything substantial to report, I'll do so here in a week or so. Then I'll make an appointment with the eye doc.


Pete

For "the sake of science" (and no one has mentioned it whom I've read - the only fixed constant of trajectory is "gravity" - which is represented by the plumb line if you're actually using a plum-bob to determine the actual vertical line of reference.

(I personally use a machinist's level, while squaring the barreled-action, with the scope mounts, and then the actual scope. Sans the "plumb-bob. I also frequently trim stocks & tapper recoil pads for a firm & fitted length-of-pull afield.)

The bore of the rifle barrel must be squared with "vertical" i.e. the barrel bore & action's 90-degree horizontal line for short-range accuracy, which in in line with the point-of-impact. Long-range the so-called "spin-drift" becomes your variable to compensate for.

However - The Wild Card - is now, how YOU shoulder that rifle, and that's the greatest physical variable of accuracy. And that will likely vary for everyone from the range to the field. If for no other reason - because your clothing is different!

Establishing the same vertical plane of reference from the true-static bench, to the improvised hunting field situation - and at least half your battle is WON!

And at the shooting bench, I start with a vertically squared, 35-yard target, then if I can't hold a true vertical & touching 5-shot group there (even with factory ammo) - I'll often start over at the static bench. gun)

There are a number of physical variables which go into long-range accuracy, but you must start reducing their impact - with a properly mounted rifle scope.
 
Keep in mind while struggling for improved accuracy, that you can't always make a silk purse from a sow's ear (or chicken salad from something else...).

But just like speed, you can buy some varying degrees of accuracy.

For example the basic action you select is an excellent place to start.

I've tinkered with semi-auto .22 rimfire rifles for decades and tried to improve accuracy by changing stocks, ammo, and scopes. When all the while it was improving and/or eliminating the mechanical connections between barreled action and scope, that helped to improve accuracy the most.

Hence actions like the Fred Feddersen's for .22 RFs & Curtis for CFs - which incorporates a CAD/CAM rail into the receiver/action can go a long way toward improving the shooter's ultimate satisfaction. Fit and finish still matter, just not as much...

Then triggers are typically my next focal point for improving accuracy...
 
I never claimed too be a genius. Only trying too find out what I need to do too improve my "odds" of consistency.

Might not be for everyone as each person chooses the path that works for them,,, mine just happens to different.

Don
I was not making any reference to you just my question . You are doing fine . Just trying to find out how many people understand that some people can't see vertical or horizontal correctly so how do they set up ?
 
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