Level level level

[T.Rep]

Need some help here guys....Bought a Sendero 300win mag, decided to mount the scope myself. Bought the Level level level kit. Did exactly as it says to do and looking through the scope the crosshairs are canted badly. Any suggestions??

 

[Broz]

Hang a plumb bob or make a level line on a back stop @ 50 to 100 yards. Make your scope mounted level or rail mounted level is centered and true the reticle. This is a preliminary set up. Then you will want to shoot it in on a plumb line on card board as you dial up 10 moa at a time. Use an aiming point at the bottom of the line for all shots. impacts should be on or close to line. Make sure your rifle mounted level is centered for each shot.

Jeff

 

[bill123]

The most important thing is leveling the reticle to the earth not the scope to the gun. Buy a scope level that mounts to the scope not to the scope mount. Set it using a plumb line or level at 100 yards.

 

[geo4061]

Get a HighPowerOptics RingTrue alignment tool. It is fast, inexpensive, and the best way I have found. It aligns the reticle with the center of the bore.

 

[Outlaw6.0]

Step one. Throw that poorly made LLL kit in the trash bucket. (I learned that lesson the hard way too).

Step two. Follow what Broz says.



t

 

[J E Custom]

Need some help here guys....Bought a Sendero 300win mag, decided to mount the scope myself. Bought the Level level level kit. Did exactly as it says to do and looking through the scope the crosshairs are canted badly. Any suggestions??

Place the Level (The one with the offset level) in the receiver rails and level the rifle (In a gun vice so it cant move)

Then look at a plum line or anything that is true vertical through the scope and line up the
crosshairs/ reticle.

After you have everything level and true, If it looks canted with you holding it you are probably
canting the rifle. A level scope and rifle will help to prevent canting (Something a lot of people
do) . I tend to cant a little and the scope being level with the rifle helps.

A friend of mine and I have a new way to level a scope and when I get the videos I will post the
process for all.

J E CUSTOM

 

[geo4061]

I have bought and tried every level Wheeler makes. None worked except the one J E Custom talks about that levels the rails on the action. The problem with this is that it will not work if you do not have an inside rail. So I tried leveling from the top of the action, top of the rail, top of 1/2 ring. This did not work very well. I bought the RingTrue and it got me as close as leveling the inside of the action. This will get you to the range. Then shoot it as Broz says.

 

[Broz]

A few thoughts.

A barrel knows no "Top" lightbulb

A rail mounted level makes this a lot easier to do and has a better chance of staying true.

We need the level bubble centered when the reticle vertical line is plumb to the earth like a plumb line or plumb bob.

But most of after that is dome we need the reticle to track true to that plumb line when we crank the turret to dial in drops.

Just my opinions and observations after mounting many scopes for long rang rigs.

Jeff

 

[bill123]

A few thoughts.

A barrel knows no "Top" lightbulb

A rail mounted level makes this a lot easier to do and has a better chance of staying true.

We need the level bubble centered when the reticle vertical line is plumb to the earth like a plumb line or plumb bob.

But most of after that is dome we need the reticle to track true to that plumb line when we crank the turret to dial in drops.

Just my opinions and observations after mounting many scopes for long rang rigs.

Jeff

Broz, I agree, so why is everyone so fixated on leveling their gun to their rail? If you do this but don't have a bubble level matched to your reticle then you are just guessing at how level your reticle is anyway. I intentionally cant my rifle stock to fit my body and then use the scope level to plumb my reticle when I take a shot.

 

[Broz]

Broz, I agree, so why is everyone so fixated on leveling their gun to their rail? If you do this but don't have a bubble level matched to your reticle then you are just guessing at how level your reticle is anyway. I intentionally cant my rifle stock to fit my body and then use the scope level to plumb my reticle when I take a shot.

In a nut shell " it is easier" "Plus it is right in front of my eye" Let me explain the easier part.

Bed the rail.

Mount the scope leaving top ring caps loose.

Position and mount level to rail.

Then keeping the level bubble centered look through the scope and rotate the scope until it is true to plumb line.

tighten scope ring caps making sure the scope does not move while tightening.

Done.

But, as I said, no matter how we do this we are not done till we shoot it in making sure it tracks true to plumb line when dialing elevation into the turret.

Jeff

edit: ps, if you intentionally want to cant your rifle, then use a scope mounted level. Bbecause the rail mounted level will encourage and insure you do not cant the rifle.

 

[Mikecr]

I'm a dialer, and I agree with Bill123.
Instead of setting up crosshairs to where they look right, I establish plumb elevation adjustment with a level mounted on the scope(SCOPLEVEL).
Gun doesn't matter much for me. Once I've calibrated the ScopLevel I can move that scope from gun to gun & back, and elevation adjustments stay plumb from wherever my new zero resides.

Now if you hold over, all I can say is good luck aligning every planet. I'm sure you will not always be able to.

 

[bill123]

I'm a dialer, and I agree with Bill123.
Instead of setting up crosshairs to where they look right, I establish plumb elevation adjustment with a level mounted on the scope(SCOPLEVEL).
Gun doesn't matter much for me. Once I've calibrated the ScopLevel I can move that scope from gun to gun & back, and elevation adjustments stay true.

Now if you hold over, all I can say is good luck aligning every planet. I'm sure you will not always be able to.

Better stated than me.

 

[Broz]

It might not have any effect, or it might be small, but should we not consider the vertical element between scope center line and barrel center line. These two are often 2" apart and I like the idea of keeping the line between them plumb as well.

Don't get me wrong, I see nothing wrong with a scope mounted levels functionality, I just prefer to use a rail mounted level for ease of view and for me they are easier to mount.

I should also add I shoot prone and hardly ever use a bench.

Jeff

 

[bill123]

It might not have any effect, or it might be small, but should we not consider the vertical element between scope center line and barrel center line. These two are often 2" apart and I like the idea of keeping the line between them plumb as well.

Jeff,
I'm a prone hooter as well. I started using a canted rifle after taking a 3 day LR course at Sig Sauer Academy with Norm Houle. I asked Norm the same question. He replied in part:
To answer your question, If you plumb bob the reticle, and say it's 1/4 inch outside your bore, then once you zero at 100 yds. the most it would be off a true no wind zero at 1000 yds. would be less than 1/4 moa.
After reading his answer, I measured the amount that my stock was canted and it was about 1/4".

Try it some time when you are down in prone. Cant the stock until you feel it fitting your shoulder. It's a lot more comfortable on your trigger hand as well.
Bill