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Len's Snowy Grand Canyon Backpack Adventure - March 2023

Len Backus

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I arrived in Grand Canyon Village with snow already on the ground and a big storm predicted for the next afternoon and night. The next morning I headed to the Backcountry Office and channged the start date of my reserved route by one day along with changing the route a bit. I eliminated the exit plan out to the Hermit's Rest trailhead. Instead I would go and return off the Bright Angel trailhead.

The top of the GC is just spectacular when covered in snow. A couple years ago I had arrived around November 1 and set up camp next to my car in a dispersed camping area about 7 miles from the South Rim. Overnight the temp dropped to one degree above zero and I woke up the see 5 inches of snow covering my tent...and my bike. On that trip I was there for day hikes and photography...which was amazing.

This time temps were much more moderate but the snow depths at the top of the rim were the deepest in the last 10 years according to a local I met on the trail first morning.

These first 2 photos were from the day before the storm. The next 2 were during the storm.

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Heading down the trail early in the morning after the overnight storm broke:
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This backpack route was 35 miles round trip.

On day one, heading down the Bright Angel trail, snow-cover petered out a couple thousand feet below the South Rim...as expected. The temps increase about 5 degrees for each `1`,000 feet of elevation loss.

First night camp was at the recently renamed Havasupi Gardens Campground. Always a favorite spot for me.

Second night was 12 miles further along the West Tonto Trail to the Granite Rapids Campground on the shore of the Colorado River...4,400 feet below the South Rim.

Third night was 12 miles back at Havasupi Gardens and next day back up the to Bright Angel trailhead on day 4.
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This backpack route was 35 miles round trip.

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This first image was of a park service helicopter transporting what was some sort of supplies:

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These next shots were at the river camp - one of them just before sunset, the other two at night with some moonlight. I am still a rooky at dark sky photography.

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On day three returning from river camp, I waited on the Tonto Trail a few hours for sunset to take the second of the images right above this post.

I then began hiking for about 3 or 4 hours in the dark. I remember finally setting up my tent at Havasupi Gardens at about 10 PM.

Long Day!
 
This backpack route was 35 miles round trip.

On day one, heading down the Bright Angel trail, snow-cover petered out a couple thousand feet below the South Rim...as expected. The temps increase about 5 degrees for each `1`,000 feet of elevation loss.

First night camp was at the recently renamed Havasupi Gardens Campground. Always a favorite spot for me.

Second night was 12 miles further along the West Tonto Trail to the Granite Rapids Campground on the shore of the Colorado River...4,400 feet below the South Rim.

Third night was 12 miles back at Havasupi Gardens and next day back up the to Bright Angel trailhead on day 4.
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So the Cabins are at campgrounds ? Are the cabins inhabited all year round ?
 
No.

You are thinking of Phantom Ranch.
I am completely unfamiliar with the area at all. But I thought there's got to be some history to the cabins in your pictures. I tried googling the area to see if I could find anything before I had to leave for work. I wasn't really sure what to search for besides what was in your description with pictures.
 

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