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Left to Riight impacts?

Rem700addict

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2012
Messages
147
Location
North Carolina
When shooting my .300wm at 100yrds I'm able to consistently get .5" 3 shot groups, but when i move back to 200yrds I get no vertical spread but get .750"-4" spread left and right. I know this is a broad question, but could someone give me an idea of what to look for in my shooting that is causing left and right impacts? The gun I'm shooting is a rem700 sps in a Boyd's stock that's been pillar bedded and free floated with a weaver 20moa rail and a Nikon bushmaster 6x-18x-40 with a 6" bipod and a sand bag under the rear. The load I've been working on is a Berger 185grn classic hunter infront of 78.5grns of RL25 with WLRM primers in rem brass. I've found the Bergers seem to favor .015" off the lands so far. I know there are many variables to consider, but where should I start, could it be my load or should I start with my form. I have ordered a Timney trigger to replace the x mark in hopes of tightening the groups some. Any pointers would be great, thanks.
 
I assume you mean a Nikon Buckmaster, not Bushmaster.

Do you adjust the parallax when you go from 100 yards to 200 yards? Do you then verify at the 200 that the crosshairs don't move when you move your head? I've seen this and had this with parallax error, which is why it comes to mind.
 
Another possibility is that the gun is not recoiling straight back. Your bipod legs may have a little twist in them, or the rear bag may not be allowing the rifle to recoil straight back.

Another thought, is your positioning allowing the gun to recoil straight back.
 
The most likely answer is driver error. Either you are not getting a consistent mount or else you are getting some push/pull on the trigger to the side.

You may also be slightly anticipating the recoil and giving a slight push with your shoulder just as you are pulling the trigger. The latter is very common and usually all but imperceptible to the shooter and will only be noticed by an experienced observer/coach.
 
Thanks for the replies, I'm thinking it is driver error. I don't have a muzzle break and for personal taste don't plan on installing one. That being said, I've seen video of guys shooting and the recoil seems to go straight back, how does one achieve this?
 
Thanks for the replies, I'm thinking it is driver error. I don't have a muzzle break and for personal taste don't plan on installing one. That being said, I've seen video of guys shooting and the recoil seems to go straight back, how does one achieve this?
Practice. It helps to have a good coach watch you.

Start off like they teach in basic training with you lying directly in line with the rifle so you have a straight line from the muzzle to your right foot (right hand shooter) then angle your lower body to the left at about 22.5 degrees for comfort.

If you are shooting off of a bench be sure you are really squared up well, not pushing and not giving to it such that you are absorbing the recoil squarely.

Personally I say put a good brake on it. If you aren't going to shoot prone lying in the dirt the Gentry Quiet brake is a wonder. If prone is a consideration, then something like Kirby's brake or the Snowy Mountain Rifles Brake that has size discharge baffling is essential or you end up with a lot of crap in your face.

If you develop a flinch it will be extremely hard to cure.

Also work on your trigger. We say "squeeze" but in truth it's a pull and you want to ensure your pull is straight back.

Get your finger into the trigger well, and do not get more finger on the trigger than just the last joint. If the side of the trigger is in the crotch of that joint you're in too deep.

Once you have your trigger finger set slide your hand back on the stock just enough to create some tension on the trigger.

Then draw your fingertip back in a smooth motion as though you were trying to reach back and touch the base of your thumb at the hand joint with the tip of your trigger finger.

Doing this ensures you are always getting a slow, steady pull and not bottoming out before the bullet has cleared the chamber.

Give the above a try and let us know how it goes. I bet you will be happy.
 
Wildrose, I will definitely try the tips you mentioned. I'm not sure though about putting a brake on the factory barrel as I hope to re-barrel it in the future with something nicer. So when I get setup in the prone position should I be putting pressure from the butt of the stock toward my target or should I not be adding pressure and let the gun recoil more freely? Thanks for the tips, unfortunately I have no military experience or a coach in this area, I've been hunting and shooting for 22 years but haven't had any real guidance.
 
Wildrose, I will definitely try the tips you mentioned. I'm not sure though about putting a brake on the factory barrel as I hope to re-barrel it in the future with something nicer. So when I get setup in the prone position should I be putting pressure from the butt of the stock toward my target or should I not be adding pressure and let the gun recoil more freely? Thanks for the tips, unfortunately I have no military experience or a coach in this area, I've been hunting and shooting for 22 years but haven't had any real guidance.
I wouldn't worry about it. When you get ready to rebarrel just unscrew it and have the smith put it on your new one.

Personally I like to lean into the rifle if I'm on a bipod. If not on a bipod then I pull it in tight.

There is a tiny fraction of a second after the trigger breaks where in any movement of the rifle will throw you off target if that movement is in any plane other than a direct line with your point of aim. If you are consistent in how you mount the rifle and do so properly you eliminate most of the possible problems with same.

Hope that helps.
 
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