Is my scope too high?

Squatch

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I justouted a 6-24x50 viper on my Cooper with low rings and a 20 moa base. The distance from the center line of the bore to the scope appears to be approx. 2". Is this going to limit my elevation adjustment? Should I try and find lower rings?gun)
 
How high the scope is above the bore wont really affect the amount of elevation adjustment that you have. If you want to get really technical then it might make a tiny difference but it wont be much. The relation between the sight and the bore in terms of angle however will make a very big difference and that is what the 20 MOA base fixes or improves on. If you want to get an ideal of how much difference sight height will make just put all your info into a ballistic calculator and change that number up and down and compare the results.
 
I always try and keep my scope as low as I can just enough room that scope cover do not contact the barrel on the bell end.
Just easier and better fit for me than having to monkey up on the check rest.

For me lower is better.
 
I justouted a 6-24x50 viper on my Cooper with low rings and a 20 moa base. The distance from the center line of the bore to the scope appears to be approx. 2". Is this going to limit my elevation adjustment? Should I try and find lower rings?gun)

I too thought the lower the better (fairly new to all the technical stuff) so on my most recent rifle I put low rings on a picatinny, but I found it very uncomfortable to shoot. I had to raise the stock on my shoulder to get my eye aligned with the scope.

In the past I always used high rings (no picatinny) and never experienced this problem, so I am going back to high rings. Maybe being 6'4" makes the difference.

I also purchased a Karsten adjustable cheek piece to install on the stock to help with cheek weld.
 
Guess I should have added more details. When I say as low as I can go that is using 56mm scope. I would guess using 44mm on a rail would be too low for my liking as well.
Sorry for misrepresenting what I meant to communicate.
 
I mount mine where they are comfortable to get behind and shoot. The 20 MOA rail changes where the scope is at zero internally at 100yards giving you more adjustment up for really long shots. Think of it like this a rail with no MOA adjustment more or less centers the inner tube of the scope inside the outer tube at 100yard zero giving you the same adjustment up and down with your turrets. With a 20 MOA rail you will have 20moa more turret adjustment up than you would have without it because the inner tube is no longer centered in the outer tube at your zero. Get yourself a bubble level for your scope and don't worry about setting the scope closer to the barrel put it where it is comfortable to shoot. With a 56mm bell you may need a cheek riser to get a good cheek weld while looking threw the scope.
 
Cheek weld is the most important..... It doesn't matter how high your scope is, but getting a solid repeatable cheek weld is....

Emphasis on repeatable....
 
Guess I should have added more details. When I say as low as I can go that is using 56mm scope. I would guess using 44mm on a rail would be too low for my liking as well.
Sorry for misrepresenting what I meant to communicate.


No matter what your objective diameter, 50 or 44mm., on the same low rings, the center of your tube doesnt move there for the 44mm objective would actually provide more clearance to the barrel.

I dont think Id put a Karsten on a wood stocked Cooper, but yes, you will need a solid repeatable anchor for your cheek. Cheek weld changes somewhat with shooting position as well because of head angle. From prone to off hand is notable, with bench rest somewhere in between.

Add half your scope tube ( 30mm is .59 ) to half your bolt diameter, and add the distance between top of bolt and bottom of scope tube to get your above bore measure. Also most mfgs give detailed dimensions of scope rings and rails so you can do the math to make sure you have clearance at the bell end. Vortex has all their scope dimensions under the specs tab to help with this.

Good luck........R
 
I would suggest getting an anti-cant device (bubble level) for your scope if you're shooting long enough distances.
The higher your scope is the more pronounced the aiming error if the scope is canted in relation to the center of bore.

The only good thing about a high scope is that you gain a little more elevation adjustment.
 
A little trick...

Close your eyes and shoulder the gun how you will be hunting with it; standing, prone, etc.

Get a cheek weld fairly quickly but in a way that feels comfortable. You shouldn't be stretching any part of your neck, etc.

Then open your eyes. Are you looking directly in the middle of the scope or do you need to move your head up/down to get a good sight picture?

Do that a half dozen times. You'll know right away if the scope is too high. You don't want to be stretching your neck in anyway when trying to shoot long range.


You can do the same "closing eyes" trick for your eye relief too. So not just the up and down of where to have your scope but also where to mount it forward or backward.

Hope that helps.
 
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