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I need some scope opinions please

Snowbird

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
178
Location
Salt Lake City, Ut
I'm looking to top my braked 300 weatherby mk-V with some new glass for western hunting out to 600 or so yards and target out to 1000yds. I have a few things I'd like in the scope and some that would be nice to have. Budget is a concern so used is an option. I'd like to keep the cost below $800 but closer to $500 if possible. I realize many of the scopes that would fit the bill are right around $1000 so, if i can find a good deal on those i'll spend a little more. I'm just getting into long range so i'm open to both the idea of moa or mrad but i do shoot artillery on the milliradian system so it may be easier to stick with that.

Musts:
quality glass (it's all relative but the best glass in price range)
exposed elevation turret w/ well defined clicks & measurements scribed
30mm tube
good eye relief & exit pupil


nice to have:
4-16 variable or close to it (+/-) -- most shots 200-600yds
40-50mm objective
retical to match the turret
parallax adjustment
zero stop


I've been looking at Vortex Vipers, Sightron, Nikon, bushnell, etc but i'm really starting to get lost in the mix of things. Any experience with a quality scope that fits the bill would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Vortex ps-t or hs-t would fit the bill nicely. I have a ps-t 4-16x 50 and its an awesome scope. Ive tested the turrets out to 400 and they have been spot on and always return to zero. Glass is very clear until I hit 16 power then it starts to get a little fuzzy bit not terrible. I dont know if its a common problem or if i need to send mine in. Im going to assume that mine needs to be sent in.
 
I have heard the same thing concerning higher magnification "fuzziness" on many brands of scopes so it may not be limited to the Vortex brand. I do know that in binoculars it is not always the magnification but the quality of the glass. I would rather sacrifice magnification over clarity and sharpness. I've had good success with the SWFA scopes too. Actually, I'm beginning to like a fixed power (like say 10, 12, or 14) with an AO over a variable power for long range. But then again, that's just my opinion. I have both.

I purchased one of the discontinued Zeiss Conquest 4.5x14X50 with target turrets for right around $500 for my Wby Mark V 300. Sighted in dead on at 300 yards and not a problem hunting out to 600 yards. The only downside is that it has a simple duplex reticle. But the deer don't seem to mind. :cool:
 
I have heard the same thing concerning higher magnification "fuzziness" on many brands of scopes so it may not be limited to the Vortex brand. I do know that in binoculars it is not always the magnification but the quality of the glass. I would rather sacrifice magnification over clarity and sharpness. I've had good success with the SWFA scopes too. Actually, I'm beginning to like a fixed power (like say 10, 12, or 14) with an AO over a variable power for long range. But then again, that's just my opinion. I have both.

I purchased one of the discontinued Zeiss Conquest 4.5x14X50 with target turrets for right around $500 for my Wby Mark V 300. Sighted in dead on at 300 yards and not a problem hunting out to 600 yards. The only downside is that it has a simple duplex reticle. But the deer don't seem to mind. :cool:
I would have recommended this scope as well, but they seem to be pretty hard to find. I have one in 6.5-20x50 w/ the target turrets. They are incredible scopes for the money.
 
ZEİSS VİCTORY DİVARİ FL 6-24-56. thay dont get beter than that mate.

NİGHTFORCE NCX. the name is really sexy :D
 
You should also consider both S & B PM II and the equivalent made by Kahles, Competition K - series.

I have a Kahles Helia KX 3.5-10x50 with the 4D reticle (with the hashmarks, not dots). Awesome scope for whitetail deer hunting where I hunt at, because we never have over a 500 yard shot, and it's extremely lightweight.
 
Let me ask you a few questions to give you some things to think about. You said hunting out to 600 and target to 1000 yards. Have you shot these distances before on a regular basis? What will you be hunting and where out west? Mountains, plains, what elevation, etc... The reason I ask is I had my second elk hunt, first guided, this past October. I used a custom McWhorter 270 Weatherby with 165 gr Matrix bullet with a Night Force 5.5x22x50 NXS scope total weight 10 pounds. Never did a lot of long distance shooting before but wanted to so like you, I wanted a rig which would enable me to play a little. Let me tell you a 10 pound rifle is one heavy SOB at 11000 feet after a couple of miles. Especially when you live at sea level and are gasping for breath at that elevation. I target practiced out to 750 yards and it was totally different between 500 and 750 yards. Now when I got into the mountains with winds at that elevation not to mention ridges and valleys that play Hell with trying to figure all this out for shot placement... I will be selling that McWhorter, just haven't taken the time to put it up here yet, and am working on a 300 win mag right now. I am going with a cheap Tikka SS, changing the stock to a McMillan Hunter, and putting a Swarovski Z3 4x12x50 ballistic turret on top. This scope does not have the parallax adjustment on it and the whole rig should be around 8 pounds. Will sight it in between 250 to 275 yards so I will be good to about 350 without having to make any elevation adjustments. I learned the hard way that when things happen on an elk hunt they happen quick. Unless you live in an area like that and have the time to practice practice practice, you've got no business taking a shot under those conditions. No, I did not, and yes I got an elk but, we rounded a corner and there he was. I had just enough time to bring up my rifle, hold my breath, while turning blue, and shoot. It was over that quick. I would not have had time for much else much less range, adjust elevation, adjust parallax, etc... I was just glad it wasn't much over 200 yards. For me personally, I don't shoot enough for the custom rifle that I have, lesson learned. Not trying to burst your bubble, just giving you things to think about from my experience.
 
jaybo, i work year round between 8 and 11,000 feet but hunt 7k to 9k mostly. i take my bow up to 11k but that is just because of the limited tags around here. I have taken game out to 300 yards but have not practiced beyond that, mostly due to access to a range. prior to living in utah i hunted whitetail in louisiana. I now hunt elk and will be hunting mule deer and antelope.

my thought was to have a setup i could practice to long ranges and be more accurate at the medium ranges with the same setup. that is similar to my bow that i shoot out to 150 yards with 10" groups on good days. i only hunt with that out to 70 yards though. I am not one to just let the lead or steel fly without control.

My last elk was taken at 250 yards with a 270 winchester (55gr IMR 4831) about 1.5 miles from the vehicle. It was a clean double lung and I packed that one out by myself. I do realize the benefit of going lite when you get more that a few miles back but I also want to carry enough rifle and scope to get the job done cleanly at distance if needed. I still close the distance to the best of my ability.

my question is what scope would you suggest for my purpose or do you think i should be using two different setups?

my weatherby is 8lbs w/o ammo, scope or bipod. It's lighter than the 12lb savage 308 fp 10 that i carried in the south for some crazy reason. I learned a valuable lesson about shooting moving animals there (nice 8 point). It was the only big game i've lost, as it made take better shots.
 
I wasn't trying to belittle you or your capabilities I just didn't know what they were. A couple of years ago I was right where you are but had only hunted in the mountains once but in an open area. I had done more sitting in one area covering a lot of open ground. I wanted an accurate rifle that I could hunt with out to 600 maybe 700 yards and play with out to a 1000. As I said, I quickly found out the skill set for 500 and 750 was vastly different and never had an opportunity to stretch beyond that. This past hunt was wayyyy more walking and this old boy at 56 years old used to sea level air was suffering for oxygen. I was in decent shape it's just my lungs are not acclimated to the thin air. With all the walking we did in different terrain I was carrying the rifle in a ready position with the magnification turned all the way down. It got heavy quick. My son was using my Sako 308 with a Swarovski Z5 5x25x50 and he felt the same way. When the action started, it was too much to try and adjust the yardage, tune the parallax, etc... That is why the set up I am working on now is a 300 win mag with a Swarovski Z3 4x12. It does not have the parallax adjustment knob and with it zeroed in at 250 - 275 yards I can reach out to 350 without adjusting a thing. If I have a 500 to 600 yard STATIONARY shot in low wind I can dial it up. It just depends on your skill level and the type of hunting you do most. Being capable of hitting a 1000 yard target and being proficient at 1000 yards on a trophy animal is something else. Only you know if you have that skill set and the type of hunting that you do. For me, I tried that set up and it is not practical to have the long range capabilities. I can't practice enough to be proficient. I can shoot the 308 out to 550 yards with the dial I have on that scope. With the one I am working on I should be able to go to 700 if need be. I just wanted to give you my personal experience and how it changed the setup I am going to use. I can tell you that practicing out to 500 and 750 yards makes 250 to 400 yards look like a chip shot and I wouldn't hesitate a second at 500 under the right conditions.
Walk and stalk, use a 500 yard max setup
Sit and glass, go for it if you have the skills
 
Jaybo,
That's one of the most honest "how it is " post I've read in a while. To the OP, I agree with Jaybo 's new set up, maybe look at meopta scopes for your budget
 
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