I have a Reloading problem I need help to solve.

[Tall]

I have a few reloading questions if somebody has some answers or theory.

I am reloading for 7mm rem mag. My gun is a Weatherby Vangaurd. It shoots really well. I had a 5 to 6 inch group at 1,000 yards. The Problem I have is some of my brass are super tight and hard to close my bolt. On a few I have to really use some force to close the bolt. I use an RCBS re sizer and bullet seater die set. Nothing fancy. It is possible that a few brass was shot in a remington gun.

Question

#1 Am I missing a step or doing something wrong in the resizing process?

#2 I inspect all my brass and have had a few i have had to toss due to stress fractures in the neck of the brass. Could my brass be getting to old?

#3 Is there a difference in quality between brass shells and nickle shells? I am thinking about buying new brass.

#4 is there anything I can do to keep my brass shinning and looking nice, such as applying wax or a product and polish it?

 

[jasent]

#1. You would have to give us a step by step of your reloading process
#2 sounds like you need to aneal your brass. Your brass has become work hardened and has too much spring back.
#3 I would not mix head stamp/brands of brass
#4 there are a number of ways, tumbling,vibratory cleaners,I polish with flitz brass polish.

 

[Trickymissfit]

you need one of Larry Willis's Innovative Technology sizing dies to get the case sized all the way down to the belt
gary

 

[Tall]

#1. You would have to give us a step by step of your reloading process
#2 sounds like you need to aneal your brass. Your brass has become work hardened and has too much spring back.
#3 I would not mix head stamp/brands of brass
#4 there are a number of ways, tumbling,vibratory cleaners,I polish with flitz brass polish.

My first step is to set up my die. I screw down until it touches the shell holder, then I release the leaver and screw down the die another 1/4 turn. I then tighten the nut and raise the shell holder to check it feels right.

I then lube the casings and a inside of the neck. I wipe off any oil on the outside of the neck so I don't get accidental casing indents from hydrolic pressure. I slowly re size the casing going threw the entire motion of the handle.

I then wash all my brass with a mild dish soap and toss them in the tumbler. After tumbling I use a primer pocket cleaner and clean any burnt powder and make sure primer pocket is clear of any Media.

I use my caliper to check the OAL of the casings and trim if needed. I use a deburing tool on each brass.

I then insert primers into the primer pockets.

I charge each case with an exact measure of powder. I then seat the bullet were it is touching the lans or maybe .001 shy of the lans. I have double checked and I know that my problem is not the bullet hitting the lans, I have tried a shorter COAL and it makes no difference.

 

[woods]

you need one of Larry Willis's Innovative Technology sizing dies to get the case sized all the way down to the belt
gary

Bingo

The inside dimensions of your sizing die are not small enough to resize your case body, especially down to the belt and your brass is binding in your chamber

OR your die is still not pushing the shoulder back, even though you have threaded it down an additional 1/4 turn past contact with shell holder. I have had dies that would not reach the shoulder and the answer is to take a shell holder and take some off the top. You can also take a little off the bottom of the die. Make sure to get it square with either method

 

[jasent]

I dont think it's your die because you said some of your cases not all. I believe you need to aneal the cases

 

[jasent]

Have you checked the cases for head separation, or how far back your bumping the shoulders. If your bumping them back too far each time your brass has to stretch to fill your chamber as you fire the round. Causing it to thin at the cases walls. Have you measured the case length? Could be time to trim.
Just a few things to check

 

[Tall]

I have trimmed some cases back. I trim to 2.5. I have had a few that went a little short to 2.45. I am not familiar with bumping the shoulders. I am not sure how to re size the head or trim the head if that is what I need to do. I think my problem is below the belt (if that's the right term) Basically what i see after re sizing is the shinny part on the brass ends just under the head of the brass. I will try and take a picture.

 

[Tall]

I believe the problem is in the head of the brass. Not sure how to re size it.

 

[jasent]

Looks like head separation. Thinning of case wall just above the head.

 

[jasent]

Head separating is not fixable. If I'm correct and it is head separation the brass needs replaced. One tip id give you for the future, dont full length size your cases for bolt actions. This over works your brass. you can neck size with your fl die and just bump the shoulders back enough to ease chambering. Then aneal your necks after the 4th loading,every fourth loading.
Hand Loading for Long Range 1: Brass Prep
Check out this link.

 

[Tall]

Thank you for the link. I don't think I have head seperation yet, but I need to study this link more to understand bumping the shoulder back .003 What is this special tool that i need?

 

[jasent]

You will need a head space gage. They are not expensive

 

[backwoods83]

Yes the shiny marks in the pic is normal for a full length die with a belted case, you my friend are on the verge of a nasty case head seperation, trash that brass. Also Gary reccomended the innovative tech die, this is a wise investment for belted cases, allowing you to size down over the belt as well, use it every 3rd or 4th loading and it will give you longer case life. Also if you want to neck size, which is my prefered method for bolt guns, get a bushing neck die, the shoulder bump deal with a FL die works, but you are still squeezing the case walls back in, just not as much. Do it right, do it once!