I’m Turning Necks Now!

I routinely turn necks when reforming .270 Win & .30-06 brass to 6.5-06. I also turn necks when reforming 6.5mm Creedmoor to 6mmCM. Neck turning assures a nice slip fit of bullet into fired brass. I periodically sharpen my neck turning tool/cutter blade with a diamond file to assure a nice sharp edge and corner. I cut into the shoulder and stop when there is no radius. No problems with donuts. I chuck .473 head & smaller diameter brass directly into my DeWalt cordless. Bigger stuff uses the Lee clamping chuck. I also turn necks when making lots & lots of .20P brass from .223. The blade gets a refresh sharpen every 200 .20P cases. Serious rodent ops require lots of ammo.

My RCBS neck turner does not look as nice as the K-M. I plan to get a K-M as adjusting the RCBS cutter between 6mm & 6.5 is somewhat of a chore.
 
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I have turned a fair number of necks on .220 Russian formed to 6 PPC. I discovered I didn't need to go all the way to the shoulder, which I didn't want to do because I didn't want a sharp transition from neck to shoulder, which I figured would be a weak point. My necks have worked very well.
 
I am using different equpment, but. If new cases never been fired, I checks for total length of case. Determine what length I am going to use. I have found that new cases right out to the boxs varies up .007 from case to case. Cut all case that I need to a length. Depending in just how thick the neck are I generally do a two steps to cut operation to achieve neck thick. I want a smooth surface or clean cut. That way my stopping point is at the same place on each cartridge. Presently I haven't had any problems with donuts, but watching.
If fired cases, I anneal and resize the case. Them expanding mandrel to push all the unevenness or irregulartiy to the out side of the neck, then set up and cut for thickness. Preently I feel I don't have to use a mandrel again. I can set my neck tension with bushing dies.
I just got some new equipment to measure my cases from base to the neck shoulder, and to the start of the shoulder. So I will some measurement to see how the new case are consistent or not.
I have cut necks for a long time, but not to degree to start with.
 
Gingerman, K&M makes a carbide mandrel with a cutter on it for removing those doughnuts. Without the carbide cutter mandrel, you force the doughnut to the outside of the neck, and cut it there which is more involved. The Carbide cutter is worth the money.

Now, you will have the clearance to where you can insert a bullet down a fired case past the shoulder neck junction to check for doughnuts, not to mention you now have good bullet release upon ignition.

I am looking forward to seeing some wonderful groups!
 
This is a 50 degree cutter. K&M said 50 degree cutter works for everything. AI is 40 degree. They offer a 43 degree cutter. Just not sure if it's worth it right now in my infancy stage of neck turning.
I bit the bullet and bought several of the cutters for different shoulder angles and can say they are worth it. It's a much nicer cut at the end. Just don't accidentally turn your cutter the wrong way and break off the cutter tip. It gets expensive. Ask me how I know. 😜

Gingerman, K&M makes a carbide mandrel with a cutter on it for removing those doughnuts. Without the carbide cutter mandrel, you force the doughnut to the outside of the neck, and cut it there which is more involved. The Carbide cutter is worth the money.
I agree with this statement. When I played around with a 6.5 Super LR, it helped a lot with the donut.
 
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Thanks for all the great advice. "This weirdo thing in the neck" LOL! I didn't know was the infamous donut. I thought donuts were visible on the outside of the cases. Looks like they can be hidden or in plain view. First time dealing with donuts, glad I got the experience to learn from. Without forums like LRH I would be soooo far in the blind on things, banging my head in the darkness of ignorance, Lol.
 
Thanks for all the great advice. "This weirdo thing in the neck" LOL! I didn't know was the infamous donut. I thought donuts were visible on the outside of the cases. Looks like they can be hidden or in plain view. First time dealing with donuts, glad I got the experience to learn from. Without forums like LRH I would be soooo far in the blind on things, banging my head in the darkness of ignorance, Lol.
Hay Buddy we all learn something everyday, if not, where not trying to better ourselves. I appreciate the thread, I've learned something in the past 2 days.
Thanks. 👍👌
 
I bit the bullet and bought several of the cutters for different shoulder angles and can say they are worth it. It's a much nicer cut at the end. Just don't accidentally turn your cutter the wrong way and break off the cutter tip. It gets expensive. Ask me how I know. 😜
Bro, for a few cases I had the drill in reverse. Things went off the rails quick! It opened my case mouths to .285-6 and I had a severe "bald moment" trying to figure out what I did to screw up the smooth process. Man, always check that drill direction! LOL
I agree with this statement. When I played around with a 6.5 Super LR, it helped a lot with the donut.
 
Gingerman, K&M makes a carbide mandrel with a cutter on it for removing those doughnuts. Without the carbide cutter mandrel, you force the doughnut to the outside of the neck, and cut it there which is more involved. The Carbide cutter is worth the money.

Now, you will have the clearance to where you can insert a bullet down a fired case past the shoulder neck junction to check for doughnuts, not to mention you now have good bullet release upon ignition.

I am looking forward to seeing some wonderful groups!
Ah ok, so that is the cutter deal I saw advertised. Good to know. Yes Sir, I am highly anticipating the results!

You knew this donut thing from the first convo I had with you troubleshooting my accuracy fall off! Gee! You really know what you're talking about! :cool:
 
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