How to find a less expensive practice round?

[SumTingWong]

Before the recent California ammo laws went into effect, I bought about 200 rnds of Barnes cartridges. But, even on sale, they were about $2 per round.
I would like to find a less expensive round for general practicing.

The ammo I bought was all copper, as that's what is required in CA for hunting.
But, I can use lead for non-hunting applications.

Is the general thought process supposed to be to try and find a less expensive round that has a similar BC, because that would still leave big variables in powder quantity/rate etc?
Or, can someone make an educated guess/recommendation?

The hunting load I bought was Barnes 150gn TTSX.
The rifle is a Win Model 70 SuperGrade in .308, with a 1:12 twist.
I do not reload my own stuff (yet).

Any recommendations?

 

[jjmp]

Since you don't reload try PMC /factory ammo ,they load Sierra bullets I'd advise 150 grain boatails to start & yes I've got a 308 custom that I reload for , good luck ,make friend of a reloader , meet like minded people it's never to late !,cheers !!!

 

[Hand Skills]

There is no substitute for practicing 'long range' with your hunting load. If you just want to work on positional shooting inside 300yd or so, you may be able to find a reasonable facsimile.

Even though there is a lot of cheap 140 and 155gr surplus ammo available, I would avoid it and try some Winchester 150 power points to remington 150 core lokt's. Try a few brands, stick to 150gr, hopefully you will find something that shoots sub-moa and to a similar POI (point of impact) as the Barnes.

I wouldnt worry about BC at all. Once it comes to practicing 'long', shoot the hunting bullets as constantly building/verifying DOPE (data on previous engagement) is the name of the game.

I think that's the best I can offer!

 

[LVJ76]

Online you can find some brands for $14 to $16 for the 20 rd box. Fiocchi, Federal, etc.

$2.00 per round for practice? Oh heck no.

I would recommend you get in to reloading and save some $$$$$

 

[JJMoody]

Even if you practice with a cheaper round, you need to practice using what you hunt with.

 

[LVJ76]

Even if you practice with a cheaper round, you need to practice using what you hunt with.

I agree, unless you can find some ammo with the same Point of Impact. Or again take on reloading

 

[JJMoody]

Same POI at all ranges between Barnes factory ammo and a cup and core( or other "cheap" ammo)?? Guess there's an outside chance, but not likely.

 

[JASmith]

Same POI at all ranges between Barnes factory ammo and a cup and core( or other "cheap" ammo)?? Guess there's an outside chance, but not likely.

A lot depends on how one defines "Same" . For example, if one's hunting accuracy is about 1moa, then determining whether a hals-inch change in impact at 100 yards is different becomes difficult, That translates to about 3 inches at 600 yards.

There is a more detailed discussion here: http://shootersnotes.com/articles/paired-rifles/

 

[palerider3]

Don't buy cheap stuff to practice with unless you're just practicing positional shooting at closer ranges and you find cheap stuff that shoots good for you. Your practice will only be as effective as your rifles mechanical accuracy is. Practicing with a 2 moa cheap ammo is only a waste of money and won't help you any more than dry firing. In fact, dry firing might be better. Don't worry about it having the same drops as your hunting ammo. Just set a second profile in your ballistic app and run that for practice. Then switch to you hunting ammo before the season, verify your zero and drop chart and go hunting. I'd look for a deal on some 168-175 match ammo and run that for practice until you get set up handloading.

 

[SwampDog13]

I would recommend you get in to reloading and save some $$$$$

One of the biggest fallacies you'll ever hear right there. Sorry I couldn't resist.

As far as actual advice goes, I would buy up multiple different manufacturers and see what shoots the closest to your hunting round and then stick with it. Lots of background checks from your lost state though.

 

[LongestShot]

There's no substitute for reloading. You can find a bullet that provides similar ballistic stats that will save you 50% or more. I suggest you look into seeing what reloading materials are on sale, you can also check out the forum accurate shooter, it has an expansive for sale section that lists all types of reloading impliments. THe sooner you start reloading the sooner you'll start saving serious $$$.

 

[LVJ76]

Before the recent California ammo laws went into effect, I bought about 200 rnds of Barnes cartridges. But, even on sale, they were about $2 per round.
I would like to find a less expensive round for general practicing.

The ammo I bought was all copper, as that's what is required in CA for hunting.
But, I can use lead for non-hunting applications.

Is the general thought process supposed to be to try and find a less expensive round that has a similar BC, because that would still leave big variables in powder quantity/rate etc?
Or, can someone make an educated guess/recommendation?

The hunting load I bought was Barnes 150gn TTSX.
The rifle is a Win Model 70 SuperGrade in .308, with a 1:12 twist.
I do not reload my own stuff (yet).

Any recommendations?

How many rounds do you shoot in a year?, then you can determine if reloading is for you, and that's if you want to get in to it.

If you shoot 400 or more rounds per year then it's definitely worth it money wise and also for accuracy purposes.

Factory ammo doesn't give me the accuracy of reloaded ammo.

I don't shoot at an animal past 500 yds, that's the set limit that I am comfortable with. So if I am taking a shot at that distance, I am because I have the skill to do it and because I trust my rifle with my reloads, this way I can provide the animal harvested a fast and humane kill.

If you are shooting at 300yds or less then factory ammo will be fine, but the premium stuff is expensive.

If you want to stick to factory ammo that is fine, absolutely nothing wrong with it. Do the math and see what works for you.

 

[DavidleeCole]

If was me I would find some cheep ammo and shoot the crap out of it and then close to season I would rezero with my hunting load and be ready for the hunt. In my opinion just shooting your rifel with cheep ammo will get you into the fell for your rifel and you can shoot from various positions you may use in the field. I believe this would be best.

 

[lancetkenyon]

Unless you shoot a LOT, reloading is NOT cheaper. It is expensive to set up, and you still have consumables as well.
Reloading bench
Storage shelves/cabinets/boxes/etc.
Press
Shell holders
Dies
Trimmers
Case prep tools
Tumbler & media
Scale
Funnel
Measuring tools
Sizing lube
Priming tools
Brass
Powder
Primers
Bullets

What reloading DOES do is help with producing ammunition that is consistent. And tailored to YOUR rifle's tastes and likes, shooting more stable powders, with the bullets YOU choose to shoot. Not all bullets, brass, primers and powders are created equal. Some are more consistent and accurate than others. Consistency is key to accuracy. And consistency is not found in most inexpensive factory ammo. Even in some of the more expensive factory ammo.

Reloading takes practice, and TIME out of your day, to do well. What is your time worth?

Cracks me up when people say reloading saves you money. Not for years after initial start up anyway. And unless you shoot a few hundred rounds a year of top of the line factory ammo, maybe never. Unless you buy the cheapest reloading supplies and components. But then, you will never get the accuracy most rifles are truly capable of producing. You have to pay to play in the accuracy game.

Cheap factory "practice ammo" would frustrate the heck out of me. I want to know if it is me or the ammo that is causing errors. Hard to do that when factory ammo can vary by 100+fps, brass weights vary by 20gr, and seating depths vary by .030" or more. Let alone neck tension, bullet weight and dimensional differences, primer seating, case dimensions, etc.