How do YOU fire form?

DUCKMAN11

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2022
Messages
463
Location
West of the Brazos
I have a 25-06AI build in the works that I will hopefully have finished by deer season. I'm in the process of gathering up all the reloading components and I got to thinking....why would I waste the "good" primers and powder heck even cheap bullets ain't cheap anymore on fire forming?

My chamber will be set up properly where I can shoot factory 25-06 ammo out of it. But I hear that makes short cases that aint gonna grow much especially in an AI. And factory ammo ain't cheap or easy to find. Also this is going to be a 1:7.5tw so I don't know how well a 100gr sst or corelok would hold together to hunt with while fire forming. Also not planning on using Remington or hornady brass. I have 150pcs of lapua 30-06 so far.

I've used the c.o.w. method before but in a 223ai and that was when primer bricks were $35 and that is a much smaller case.

Barrel life is of concern. But I'd rather do something right the first time so if that means fire forming with a bullet then so be it.

Can I load a medium charge of superformance which a have a lot of and a cheapo bullet and a cheapo primer and start there? Would using a cheap primer for fire forming change my primer pockets?

This isn't a 25-06AI specific question. How do yall fire form your improved cases?
 

.30-06

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2022
Messages
172
Location
NJ

A primed case is charged with 10 grains of Alliant Bullseye, a very fast-burning powder. Cornmeal is poured into the case to the mouth, then packed tightly in the case mouth. A little Elmer's Glue is applied to the top of the cornmeal and allowed to dry.

This method is particularly useful when forming cases in "improved" chambers that have been reamed out without setting the barrel back one thread.
 
Last edited:

FEENIX

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2008
Messages
20,126
Location
Great Falls, MT
I have a 25-06AI build in the works that I will hopefully have finished by deer season. I'm in the process of gathering up all the reloading components and I got to thinking....why would I waste the "good" primers and powder heck even cheap bullets ain't cheap anymore on fire forming?

My chamber will be set up properly where I can shoot factory 25-06 ammo out of it. But I hear that makes short cases that aint gonna grow much especially in an AI. And factory ammo ain't cheap or easy to find. Also this is going to be a 1:7.5tw so I don't know how well a 100gr sst or corelok would hold together to hunt with while fire forming. Also not planning on using Remington or hornady brass. I have 150pcs of lapua 30-06 so far.

I've used the c.o.w. method before but in a 223ai and that was when primer bricks were $35 and that is a much smaller case.

Barrel life is of concern. But I'd rather do something right the first time so if that means fire forming with a bullet then so be it.

Can I load a medium charge of superformance which a have a lot of and a cheapo bullet and a cheapo primer and start there? Would using a cheap primer for fire forming change my primer pockets?

This isn't a 25-06AI specific question. How do yall fire form your improved cases?
.30 LARA, I use hydraulic forming die.
.30 Gibbs, I use the COW method.
.270 AI, I developed an accuracy load for .270 Win and .270 AI.
 

FEENIX

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2008
Messages
20,126
Location
Great Falls, MT
I was wondering if any of powders I have will work other than Bullseye..... I have Alliant blue dot, and Accurate 5744
Blue dot, yes. For the COW method, you want to use a pistol powder (I use WST), not rifle powder like the Accurate 5744 - despite being used in magnum pistols like .44 magnum, it might be too slow for fireforming brass.
 

FEENIX

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2008
Messages
20,126
Location
Great Falls, MT
I figured bluedot might be too slow
I prefer WST and faster, but as you can see with the video example I provided you via PM, it works, but he also noted he could have gone with a faster powder.

He ended up using 19g of Blue Dot for his .243 AI compared to 11g of WST for my .30 Gibbs.
 
Last edited:

lancetkenyon

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Messages
4,949
Location
Arizona
Moderate load of parent case with a slightly faster powder, bullet seated into the lands if the case is not a crush fit.

Work up an accurate fire forming load like anything else. Have fun. I have shot my fire forming loads on steel out to 1400 yards, and hunted with them as well.

.260AI
20220205_080851.jpg

20210703_075428.jpg


6.5SS
20210501_074523.jpg

20210411_090402.jpg

27 shots during fire forming
20210501_083026.jpg


.300NMI
20201226_105214.jpg

20201212_091915.jpg
 

Seabeeken

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2013
Messages
757
Location
NW NC
Normal forming loads can be very accurate IME. I use a fast burning pistol powder, coffee, and false shoulder. I started using false shoulder after jamming bullets and had one slip. If saving primers is a goal, then hydro forming is the ticket but then you have the cost of the die.
 

just_jon

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2019
Messages
1,032
Location
SC PA
I think blue dot may be too slow. It’s #71 on the burn rate chart. I use the COW method with a charge of green dot (#24) equal to 1/3 of a normal load of the parent cartridge. I use ivory soap to seal the case. Be prepared for some strange looks if you use this method at the local gun range. Seems I always have one guy who a how it’s grouping or why I’m not sighting through the cops only to walk away scratching his head when I tell him I’m not shooting bullets.

I have also had success shooting and hunting with factory ammo back in the day when factory ammo was readily available and cheap, generally speaking,
 
Top