How do YOU fire form?

[DUCKMAN11]

I have a 25-06AI build in the works that I will hopefully have finished by deer season. I'm in the process of gathering up all the reloading components and I got to thinking....why would I waste the "good" primers and powder heck even cheap bullets ain't cheap anymore on fire forming?

My chamber will be set up properly where I can shoot factory 25-06 ammo out of it. But I hear that makes short cases that aint gonna grow much especially in an AI. And factory ammo ain't cheap or easy to find. Also this is going to be a 1:7.5tw so I don't know how well a 100gr sst or corelok would hold together to hunt with while fire forming. Also not planning on using Remington or hornady brass. I have 150pcs of lapua 30-06 so far.

I've used the c.o.w. method before but in a 223ai and that was when primer bricks were $35 and that is a much smaller case.

Barrel life is of concern. But I'd rather do something right the first time so if that means fire forming with a bullet then so be it.

Can I load a medium charge of superformance which a have a lot of and a cheapo bullet and a cheapo primer and start there? Would using a cheap primer for fire forming change my primer pockets?

This isn't a 25-06AI specific question. How do yall fire form your improved cases?

 

[.30-06]

Fireforming | Load Data Article

<p>Fireforming" is the process of firing a metallic cartridge in a chamber slightly larger than the cartridge. Upon firing, the brass case expands to fit the chamber walls. Normally this is done to "improve" the original cartridge, giving it slightly more powder capacity and hence velocity...

loaddata.com

A primed case is charged with 10 grains of Alliant Bullseye, a very fast-burning powder. Cornmeal is poured into the case to the mouth, then packed tightly in the case mouth. A little Elmer's Glue is applied to the top of the cornmeal and allowed to dry.

This method is particularly useful when forming cases in "improved" chambers that have been reamed out without setting the barrel back one thread.

 

[FEENIX]

I have a 25-06AI build in the works that I will hopefully have finished by deer season. I'm in the process of gathering up all the reloading components and I got to thinking....why would I waste the "good" primers and powder heck even cheap bullets ain't cheap anymore on fire forming?

My chamber will be set up properly where I can shoot factory 25-06 ammo out of it. But I hear that makes short cases that aint gonna grow much especially in an AI. And factory ammo ain't cheap or easy to find. Also this is going to be a 1:7.5tw so I don't know how well a 100gr sst or corelok would hold together to hunt with while fire forming. Also not planning on using Remington or hornady brass. I have 150pcs of lapua 30-06 so far.

I've used the c.o.w. method before but in a 223ai and that was when primer bricks were $35 and that is a much smaller case.

Barrel life is of concern. But I'd rather do something right the first time so if that means fire forming with a bullet then so be it.

Can I load a medium charge of superformance which a have a lot of and a cheapo bullet and a cheapo primer and start there? Would using a cheap primer for fire forming change my primer pockets?

This isn't a 25-06AI specific question. How do yall fire form your improved cases?

.30 LARA, I use hydraulic forming die.
.30 Gibbs, I use the COW method.
.270 AI, I developed an accuracy load for .270 Win and .270 AI.

 

[.30-06]

I was wondering if any of powders I have will work other than Bullseye..... I have Alliant blue dot, and Accurate 5744

 

[BillLarson]

full loads hard into lands or false shoulder on case neck.

 

[FEENIX]

I was wondering if any of powders I have will work other than Bullseye..... I have Alliant blue dot, and Accurate 5744

Blue dot, yes. For the COW method, you want to use a pistol powder (I use WST), not rifle powder like the Accurate 5744 - despite being used in magnum pistols like .44 magnum, it might be too slow for fireforming brass.

 

[.30-06]

I figured bluedot might be too slow

 

[FEENIX]

I figured bluedot might be too slow

I prefer WST and faster, but as you can see with the video example I provided you via PM, it works, but he also noted he could have gone with a faster powder.

He ended up using 19g of Blue Dot for his .243 AI compared to 11g of WST for my .30 Gibbs.

 

[.30-06]

I don't have anything faster, I did but I gave it away. UGH !

 

[.30-06]

see WST cheap, I'll get a pound.

 

[lancetkenyon]

Moderate load of parent case with a slightly faster powder, bullet seated into the lands if the case is not a crush fit.

Work up an accurate fire forming load like anything else. Have fun. I have shot my fire forming loads on steel out to 1400 yards, and hunted with them as well.

.260AI

6.5SS

27 shots during fire forming

.300NMI

 

[Seabeeken]

Normal forming loads can be very accurate IME. I use a fast burning pistol powder, coffee, and false shoulder. I started using false shoulder after jamming bullets and had one slip. If saving primers is a goal, then hydro forming is the ticket but then you have the cost of the die.

 

[just_jon]

I think blue dot may be too slow. It's #71 on the burn rate chart. I use the COW method with a charge of green dot (#24) equal to 1/3 of a normal load of the parent cartridge. I use ivory soap to seal the case. Be prepared for some strange looks if you use this method at the local gun range. Seems I always have one guy who a how it's grouping or why I'm not sighting through the cops only to walk away scratching his head when I tell him I'm not shooting bullets.

I have also had success shooting and hunting with factory ammo back in the day when factory ammo was readily available and cheap, generally speaking,

 

[FEENIX]

I think blue dot may be too slow.

Not ideal, but it works.