DoneNOut
Well-Known Member
I think if one were to monitor their primers and stop increasing powder when they see signs, they will never have to worry about stressing the gun.
Hidden Pressure Reading: A Method
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Many of the most accurate loads I shoot are up there in the pressure, I shoot for accuracy.
Many of us love the Lapua brass, the case head will take the pressure with the primers still being tight, while we would have blown the primer pockets on the first/second firing of Remington brass. AGD brass is demonstrating some incredible toughness, also. I still shoot Remington brass with some loads in the 7 Mag(150-154 at 3250 fps), just discard the brass when needed, it is a hunting rifle.
I know the pressure is way up there on some of my 7 Mag loads, same for the 7 STW(Winchester brass), I just throw the brass away when I de-cap with a loose primer pocket. Then there is the issue of some primers being larger than others, such as the Tula, while other primers are a tad bit smaller in Dia.
Action strength is another issue, a real can of worms. I have one Rem 700 that is on it's 11th barrel, varmint rig.
There have been some that made tools that would tighten up the primer pocket over the years, wish I Had not lost that information, maybe someone out there can shed some light on this issue.
Many of us love the Lapua brass, the case head will take the pressure with the primers still being tight, while we would have blown the primer pockets on the first/second firing of Remington brass. AGD brass is demonstrating some incredible toughness, also. I still shoot Remington brass with some loads in the 7 Mag(150-154 at 3250 fps), just discard the brass when needed, it is a hunting rifle.
I know the pressure is way up there on some of my 7 Mag loads, same for the 7 STW(Winchester brass), I just throw the brass away when I de-cap with a loose primer pocket. Then there is the issue of some primers being larger than others, such as the Tula, while other primers are a tad bit smaller in Dia.
Action strength is another issue, a real can of worms. I have one Rem 700 that is on it's 11th barrel, varmint rig.
There have been some that made tools that would tighten up the primer pocket over the years, wish I Had not lost that information, maybe someone out there can shed some light on this issue.
Ok, but it seems to me that different brands of primers tend to flatten out and exhibit pressure at the same charge weight, or at different points in the load work-up process. I think I said that right. Anyway, how do I correctly analyze that situation? The one thing I do know, is that the more read these threads with you really smart people, the more I realize I know squat. But I'm trying to absorb as much as possible, and figure stuff out.
DoneNOut
Well-Known Member
The primer pocket growth would be the best indicator. If you got some weak metal primers smeared all over, but no primer pocket growth you would know those primers were a false read. Chrono numbers can be a read also. If I am exceeding what is common for a load I scrutinize the case, primers, because I rarely get a free lunch! LOL
I've been loading 25yrs and still pick up stuff! Students to the grave.
Ain't that the truth. I've been reloading for about 40 years, but just the last few, I've been digging into the real nuts and bolts of fine tuning my loads.
DoneNOut
Well-Known Member
I think like most guys, I get my advancements in hand loading when I encounter & have to troubleshoot a problem, lol. There's nothing new under the Sun, so I've always got tremendous help from guys on the forums. Not enough like minded people local to me to bounce things off of!
Muddyboots
Well-Known Member
Excellent!!
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Prob most least understood facet of reloading. Rifles are designed to specific cartridge SAAMI pressures. Is there a safety factor? Maybe? Probably? WTHK's? What is happening to the steel of the action with repeated over pressure loads? What is happening to bolt thrust? This is where I get heartburn the "assumption" rifles can exceed SAAMI cartridge pressures on routine basis.
Until it doesn't.
I read an article long time ago, not sure where but hope someone recalls, that discussed the steel action and bolt thrust pressurization effect. Anybody recall it? I can't find it.
RichCoyle
Well-Known Member
Yep. On my last rifle I started getting unusual high pressure. Finally discovered the brass necks were growing and pinching the bullets in the throat. Now I trim after every shot and check in the case with a piece of pointed wire for insipient head separation.
If I could afford it, this chamber would be "improved" with a forty-degree shoulder. Maybe next year......
Mike Matteson
Well-Known Member
Here you go.
Guys please don't jump all over me for this but I don't believe there is any good/safe way to make a primer pockets smaller. Sure you can hammer on them with a bolt or ball bearing but I believe that only makes them feel smaller and most certainly doesn't do the web any good. Just think about it. The only way to make a hole smaller is with a bushing or if there were over sized primers. JMO
Mike Matteson
Well-Known Member
Me too. I work for accuratic and velocity. I look at what the rifle will do in the book. In my larger calibers I look at 3200 to 3300 fps. In my smaller calibers I look for something in the 3700 to 3900 fps.
The reason behind that is: I know how that bullet going to fly through the air and it's drop up to 500yds. I don't have to rethink what I am doing. I just adjust my hold and shoot. I use a 2x8 Leupold duplex on most of my rifles. I know how to range the animal I am hunting with the scope and how it fill the scope. So it't easy to adjust my hold. No range finder either. Part of that come from knowing the distance between the top of the back to the botton of the chest. Knowing how it fill the scope at different ranges. Adjust the hold over and shoot. I learn to hold the crosshairs dead center out to 300yds, hold the crosshairs at top of back if it's showing the animail only filling the scope so much. Then at a 500ydy stop I move the heavy vertial post to the top of his back and shoot. At 400 and 500 yds I generally hit on the upper half of the animal.
The reason behind that is: I know how that bullet going to fly through the air and it's drop up to 500yds. I don't have to rethink what I am doing. I just adjust my hold and shoot. I use a 2x8 Leupold duplex on most of my rifles. I know how to range the animal I am hunting with the scope and how it fill the scope. So it't easy to adjust my hold. No range finder either. Part of that come from knowing the distance between the top of the back to the botton of the chest. Knowing how it fill the scope at different ranges. Adjust the hold over and shoot. I learn to hold the crosshairs dead center out to 300yds, hold the crosshairs at top of back if it's showing the animail only filling the scope so much. Then at a 500ydy stop I move the heavy vertial post to the top of his back and shoot. At 400 and 500 yds I generally hit on the upper half of the animal.
Mike Matteson
Well-Known Member
I haven't tried it yet. I do see something coming out to do the work. I know I have one for shotgun cases now.
Years ago, R.W. Hart & Son was selling sets of dies that would tighten primer pockets.
I loaded heavy buckshot loads with Blue Dot that would open the pockets on the Rem 3" shells, and I did tighten up the pockets,
1 5/8 oz loads at 1350 with 2400 powder.
I loaded heavy buckshot loads with Blue Dot that would open the pockets on the Rem 3" shells, and I did tighten up the pockets,
1 5/8 oz loads at 1350 with 2400 powder.
nksmfamjp
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,203
No heavy bolt lift right off the top. I read about people saying that there is ejector marks, but not big deal.That away beyond my loads. I get pi**ed off at myself if I get to where there starting to show ejector marks.
Can you help me correlate these two groups of words? I cannot understand how these align.
