Reading pressure signs with no ejector

[Silly_Ghillie]

I just rebuilt a target rifle I had in .300 WM. New barrel, stock, optic, the whole nine.
in the process of rebuilding, I lost my ejector spring while doing the barrel install (took ejector out for headspace gauges) And then I decided not to even keep the ejector since I don't really care to have my brass thrown in the snow and mud every time I throw my bolt open.

Anyway, I am going to be using a similar load to my previous. H1000 to start, CCI #250 primers in ? brass ?. I am switching from 212 gr. ELD-X to Berger 215 gr. hybrids. rifle has a savage 110 action. I'm hoping to find my node in a velocity region of mid to high 2800's.

My last load wasn't loaded super hot, (73.5 grains of H1000, bullet ten thou off the lands). the issue is that this previous load showed signs of excessive pressures even though it was a relatively mild load. slight imprint of the ejector. primers were always slightly flattened and because its a savage, I had cratered firing pin marks. (temps between 20 and 80 Fahrenheit) as far as I know, the factory savage chamber was okay- nothing crazy to write home about.

I worry that I may have had something going on internally that I ignored based on velocity numbers and my confidence in the brass condition, load data, etc. I had maybe one or two hard lifts on the bolt (1000 ish rounds with that load) but everything seemed okay so I kept with it. I was using the same brass the whole time which is still in decent condition (some with more or less) after about 10 reloads, half of which were frequently FL sized.

My long drawn out question is, with the strange inherent signs I have experienced with this previous load, and the fact that these CCI primers are a bad indicator of pressure- how am I going to check pressures before they get to the "pucker" stage If I have no signs to look for? will the brass flow into the ejector hole? I typically load light, but I want to have my bases covered here. is it possible there was something up with my old chamber? I'm open to any advice or anecdotes. I have about 8 years of reloading experience, so call me new?

 

[CVCOBRA1]

I would at least start with some NEW brass of your flavor. No way I would put old used brass in a new barrel to look for pressure signs. Esp when you think you are a little hot to begin with. You would be starting with weak brass that you couldn't even measure or see bad runs in it.

 

[Silly_Ghillie]

I had no intention on using that old brass even though its not bad, I just have bags and bags of it with no home or purpose other than to look it over and ponder (edit) { I guess I put that on my post, Ive written that load out so many times it just slipped. }
About the only thing I can find that's in good quantity that's not sold out is mil FC brass, which I don't know too much about but has been on my radar.

 

[Reloader222]

You would find that with the new barrel you will have to use a grain or 2 less powder. Just be cautious that the maximum allowable overall length of your loaded cartridge might not be the same. Measure this first and adjust overall length if necessary. A relative safe load in a friends rifle had given such high pressures that the case got stuck after the first shot. The reason in his case was that the new barrel had much less free bore than the old barrel and that had caused the bullet to be placed into the lands after chambering the cartridge.

 

[Silly_Ghillie]

update: for anyone who cares.
Ended up buying that mil brass. To my surprise, I only had to cull 40 out of 150. for $25.99 / 50, that's a pretty solid deal. The web and neck thickness is something worthy of notation, considering the average weight of the mil brass is 6 grains heavier than the PPU stuff I was previously using.
Primers were good this go around- barely started seeing signs of flattening at 77 grains of H1000.
Something had to be going on in my last barrel/brass to be causing the primers to flatten like they were previously at only 71 grains. Too bad I pitched the old tube already...

 

[Reloader222]

Also measure the maximum allowable overall length of the cartridge. Do not just assume you could use the same overall length. It could be that you have less free bore on the new barrel and that could cause over pressure. Then remember that the new barrel would be much more resistant since the grooves are still new and not worn like the old barrel. This would also contribute towards higher pressure. You have to develop a load from scratch.

 

[Silly_Ghillie]

What I am trying to say is that the old barrel and old load showed signs of over pressure the entire life of the barrel. when I worked my load in my old barrel, no matter the powder charge, the primers were flattened and I had ejector kiss marks on the upper end of my powder charges. I worked my old load down until the ejector marks were gone to be safe and ran with it for 1000+ rounds.

I was worried about having the same issue with this totally new load, and not being able to see ejector marks if pressure was to be an issue, since that was my only real way of knowing where I was at. my assumption was that the CCI #250's were just really soft.

I worked this current load from the bottom up, so the COAL, CBTO, shoulder bump, etc. is not the same at all. In fact, my CBTO is a couple thousandths longer. This barrel came with a "carbon copy" stub gauge, and with the bore being virgin- I have a very good idea on where my shoulder and bullet is going to set and have already set it. I have already ladder tested some loads and worked my way up- and I ran into no excessive pressure signs that I had previously experienced. I'm five grains higher and still not even close to the flattening I was getting with these primers in my old load.

I'm not sure where I gave the impression I was just taking the same load to a new barrel, but If I came across confusing I do apologize.