Headspace Gauges

[DoneNOut]

I know the go gauge with tape on the end to act as a no-go gauge is used a lot. Why not just use the no-go gauge? Spin the action on until the No-go doesn't go. I've done this for two rifles now and all is well. I missing something?

 

[jbenevides89]

There are many ways to do it. I put a piece of clear tape or two on the back of a go gauge to add roughly .003-.006

No-go can also still go in a lot of chambers. A Field gauge is the real "NO GO" so I guess it depends on how tight you want to make your setup.

 

[ARlife4me]

As tape has been used and many trust it, tape compresses. I use no-go as closer to 100% insurance than tap is regardless of what tape is used. I have sets for every cartridge I own. There are custom sets also, but haven't gone that direction.

 

[ARlife4me]

The gauges are marked with specs and if subtracted you'll know the space.

 

[DoneNOut]

Ok, thus far I'm not missing anything!

 

[biednick]

Tape on the back of a go gauge will be shorter than most no go gauges, but will always be longer than the go gauge without tape. No go gauges are generally right in the middle of the headspace range, somewhere around .005" longer than a go gauge. A piece of tape adds .002" or so. Using tape is a test for a tight chamber, not a safe chamber. The same is true of no go gauges, but a taped go gauge will fail a tighter chamber than a no go gauge.

A set of gauges in .001" increments across the whole headspace range is the best option, but most of us aren't going to buy 10 gauges for a single caliber.

It doesn't matter if the tape compresses. If it closes on a go and doesn't close on a go with tape you're in spec.

 

[QuietTexan]

Ok, thus far I'm not missing anything!

I order GO and NO GO with each reamer. If it's a Savage or a Remage I'll order the Field also.

~$35-55 a piece from the reamer maker normally, not a big deal. Most I think I've ever paid is $80 each for a pair to go with a fully custom wildcat reamer.

I also am not sure why it's such a big deal to have them both? If I have them both I can still put tape on the go gauge, there's not a rule saying I can't do that anymore

 

[DoneNOut]

I order GO and NO GO with each reamer. If it's a Savage or a Remage I'll order the Field also.

~$35-55 a piece from the reamer maker normally, not a big deal. Most I think I've ever paid is $80 each for a pair to go with a fully custom wildcat reamer.

I also am not sure why it's such a big deal to have them both? If I have them both I can still put tape on the go gauge, there's not a rule saying I can't do that anymore

Why not just use the No-go? Screw the tape! My Forster gauges set a tight chamber, so I tighten the nut when the No-go drags on close.

 

[QuietTexan]

I set up my 8.6 BLK with a no go gauge exactly that way. Then I dropped in the go and it went. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Also I'm not entirely sure headspace actually matters very much if you'll never shoot factory ammo. If I set my 8.6 BLK chamber .050 short, and set my forming die to match with a slight crush on close......... what would the problem ever be? Sizing die sets back .002 from crush every time after that.

For me at least, not the average idiot on the street that would try to shoot a 6.5CM out of it, because hey that's what the brass headstamp says.

 

[ARlife4me]

Why not just use the No-go? Screw the tape! My Forster gauges set a tight chamber, so I tighten the nut when the No-go drags on close.

I set up my 8.6 BLK with a no go gauge exactly that way. Then I dropped in the go and it went. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Also I'm not entirely sure headspace actually matters very much if you'll never shoot factory ammo. If I set my 8.6 BLK chamber .050 short, and set my forming die to match with a slight crush on close......... what would the problem ever be? For me at least, not the average idiot on the street that would try to shoot a 6.5CM out of it, because hey that's what the brass headstamp says.

I've been testing the waters on that method also, but still check the finished work as I'm new to ba building.

 

[FrogFire7]

I set up my 8.6 BLK with a no go gauge exactly that way. Then I dropped in the go and it went. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Also I'm not entirely sure headspace actually matters very much if you'll never shoot factory ammo. If I set my 8.6 BLK chamber .050 short, and set my forming die to match with a slight crush on close......... what would the problem ever be? Sizing die sets back .002 from crush every time after that.

For me at least, not the average idiot on the street that would try to shoot a 6.5CM out of it, because hey that's what the brass headstamp says.

As a 100% handloader, I've also looked at things this way as well.

 

[can1010]

it doesn't really matter how you set headspace on your rife. as long as you are in control of the fireforming and sizing for that rifle. just remember the longer you go and the more you backout your die for proper shoulder bump the less the base gets sized and will cause problems down the road with bolt click, hard or sticky extraction and if not fireformed properly case head separation becomes a problem.

i do all kinds of crazy things experimenting and wildcatting but i would not go much longer than a no-go without ordering a new reamer and gauges and custom sizing die.

remember never sell a rifle that has that type of mods to anybody ever.

 

[DoneNOut]

it doesn't really matter how you set headspace on your rife. as long as you are in control of the fireforming and sizing for that rifle. just remember the longer you go and the more you backout your die for proper shoulder bump the less the base gets sized and will cause problems down the road with bolt click, hard or sticky extraction and if not fireformed properly case head separation becomes a problem.

i do all kinds of crazy things experimenting and wildcatting but i would not go much longer than a no-go without ordering a new reamer and gauges and custom sizing die.

remember never sell a rifle that has that type of mods to anybody ever.

All the 308s I've shot for the past 25yrs have fired the shoulders to 1.620-22. That went for factory bolt rifles, AR10s, M1A, FAL. When I built my first custom and recent 308 bolt guns, the Forster Go and No-Go put the fire formed shoulder to 1.611. Factory new Lapua brass and Federal Gold medal match come with shoulders at 1.605. (My Hornady comparator set. I hear they aren't all precise, so these are comparative measurements)

So, I'm reducing stretch on the brass from the factory length. I'm also needing 1-1.5gr less powder than my previous 168 Amax loads fired in the typical "longer chambers" to achieve same velocities. The Forster must be "match" chamber dimensions because I know if I get some resistance closing the bolt on the No-go gauge, the shoulders will fire a couple thou longer, but still way under 1.620. I'm tired and rambling I'll shut up for now!

 

[cajun]

It just depends on how tight you want the chamber to be. There can be .004-.005 difference in go no go. Clear scotch tape is usually .001-.002 but it does compress some so say .001. It really only matters on the first firing of new brass because after that you can control how much you size. I like it to close on go but not with tape.