For those who have done it...

In my youth I used to look at Savages with disdain. That nut was ugly compared to a shouldered barrel.

Now I see them as the DIYer's dream and just think of them as merely another part of the rifle.

If you are handy and interested in doing the work PTG sells tools to 'blue-print' an action. No, at the end of it all that action may not be as perfect as one sent to a gunsmith. However, assuming that you do your part it will be better than when it left the factory.
Use this tool to lap the lugs.
Use this tool and this cutter to square the bolt face, and then this tool to lap the bolt face flat and smooth. I used that last tool's body to also check and square the receiver face. Sharpie's make great "dykem' for projects like this.

Citified, Lassen is not all that far from you. Maybe they offer short seminars that would be of use and interest?
EDIT: xsn10s beat me to it. I guess that I'm not the only one with geographic knowledge of the area. (I spent all of my summers as a kid in Powell Butte.) Does COCC also have machine shop classes? Central Oregon is pretty large area, maybe neither CC is close to you?
One of the things that I noticed at my now local CC is that there were guys who took night machine shop classes just to get machine tool access. The shop instructor knew them and just turned them loose. All that he asked was that they mentor new students when needed.
 
The barrel came short chambered by .030". I bought a pilot finish reamer, cutting oil and the T handle and hand reamed slowly while checking with the go/no go gauges. It really was easy and got the headspace at minimum. I have other rifles the headspace guages work for, so decided to own them. I could have rented a reamer inexpensively but you hear stories about dull or worn ones so decided to own it and not abuse it.
Greatly appreciate the insight. Might have to try the short chambered next time.
 
I haven't rebarreled a Remington myself, but I have done a savage and it was very straightforward. Breaking the barrel off the Remington may be the initial challenge. After that, it's smooth sailing.

In my case, I went from a 308 to a 22-250 AI on a Savage 10 action. Barrel was an Xcaliber prefit. Accuracy was right on, but I grew tired of the clunky feel of the Savage action. I ended up purchasing a Zermatt (Bighorn) TL3 action that happens to accept savage small shank threaded barrels. I popped the 22-250 AI barrel off the Savage and swapped to the TL3. Sure, a shouldered barrel looks cleaner, but the barrel nut isn't too bad.

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I will give you my 2 cents about prefits and Remages set up .
I only have one prefit for a Defiance and it didnt fit . After all the pain and suffering I finally had a Machinist help me . Now it shoots great !

The several Remages I have are all on Remintons actions right now. But I have a Christensen arms action that's going to get used here shortly .

If your the type that's not happy unless is a custom rifle at $ 6500.00 well you have your answer !

I'm changing and trying different parts all the time ! To me it would be so boring to have just one high priced Gun.
Get the few tools you need and go for it !

I have one Remage 300 ultra and it shoots the 245 gr bergers at 3010 ft.per.sec and I love it ! I need to finnish a 6.5 Prc Remage and get to load work .

I like the Remages so much I called Crown Ridge Barrel Works and I'm going to send them my Blank for a Remage 375 Ultra !

I'm tired of dealing with the very few Smith's around me .

Listen to both sides ...there is always going to good or bad experiences or opinions .

Good Luck in your decision !

Rum Man
 
That sounds interesting. The shop I worked in eons ago made aircraft parts on contract so had exposure to many types of metals and close tolerances. It would be a lot of fun to cut my own barrels.
I am not going to start a gunsmith business.
The local guy here is good and gets most stuff done in a reasonable time.
You probably could do it at home if you had a lathe. By buddy in Bend recut the threads on a used barrel made for a blue printed action. The threads were oversized and it was cut for a 0.250" recoil lug. My buddy said it was within .001' of ideal so I went with it. I installed it at home it shoots great with my handloads. I have a thread on that rifle here.
 
I should also add - watch a few videos on YouTube to see the process. Then decide if you think it's a task you're willing/capable to take on.
Yup I agree. When I took off my factory Remington barrel I presoaked it with penetrating oil for a couple of weeks. The barrel still spun in my Wheeler barrel vice. I suggest an all metal barrel vice like the Brownell's or at least an aluminum one like the Viper. I used a Wheeler action vice is it's fairly cheap. In the end the barrel spun so I added a pipe wrench as well as the barrel vice since the barrel was shot out. The barrel was glued into the action from the factory which explained why it was hard to remove. The penetrating oil got about 3/4 of the way down the threads. So the OP has to decide if he has the patience and mechanical abilities to do this. You can get great accuracy from a lot of the prefit barrels. You can also okay accuracy. IMO a really good gunsmith increases the chance of making an accurate rifle. But on the other hand I've had three factory rifles that could consistent shoot sub 1/2 moa with my handloads.
 
So, a gunsmith years ago oversized the threads on my 300 RUM SS mountain rifle and I would have put a heavier barrel in it myself if he hadn't done that while "blueprinting" it. In the end, it was wasted money as the accuracy didn't really improve.
This is an old story and I still have the rifle.
Manners stock, Jewell trigger and teardrop bolt knob so I like that part. I had Nathan Smith make a tapered brake for it which tamed the recoil.
With things as they are today, I would start with a bare aftermarket action since they are
more affordable and the tolerances right on.
 
My thinking for the OP was to use a new Remarms ADL since the 243 wins have a 1-8" twist and 5R rifling. Plus the actions are advertised as having very tight tolerances. Pretty much blue printed from the factory. The feed ramps are also cut to use binderless mags if he decides to get a chassis stock.
 
I believe that alot of guys will head towards the Remage barrels as the Smith's are getting few and far between.
The Pre fit barrels might be a option too but my experience wasnt good .
Almost no guarantee now a days .

Plus with everbody so worried about barrel life the Remage /prefit options are good .

Rum Man
 
Post #11 clarifies what the rifle under discussion is. Bold is mine.
Sorry. I was talking about two different guns in my OP. One is a custom build that was blueprinted and rebarreled by a very good gunsmith.

The build in question is a stock Remington 700 243 Winchester that I am considering converting to 6CM myself via a remmage barrel.

With that information, is it worth doing the remmage? You've done 4, so I'm interested to hear your experiences.

Heat can aid in the removal of adhesives and thread locking agents used to the barrel threads. Take it just barely past can't touch it at the most.
 
If you can walk and chew gum, pretty good chance you can put together a Remage build. If you can borrow the outside version action wrench plus vise, it is not difficult UNLESS the barrel threads were thread locked! Trust me on that one. Use headspace gauges not brass.

Preferred Barrel has been good for 5 builds, all good. Are they PRS? No but really good hunting accuracy of solid HONEST 3/4 MOA and sometimes better if I don't drink coffee.

Bryce LISTENS well and can help you on throat.

Me? 700SA's suck for magazine capacity and flexibility. I would really think hard on not keeping the .243 Win with better throat depending on bullets you think you will shoot.
 
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