for all you Banish 30 owners

[Leo from PA]

Update to this: Used CLR (calcium lime remover) and vinegar diluted in water in the ultrasonic cleaner and detergent followups, finally was able to twist the pieces apart. CLR works very well and is one of the things recommended.

 

[hydehunter]

I make it a habit to loose and tighten before, during and after shooting and leave loose when done till next time. Next time I am by Sturgis, SD I will stop in and talk to Dale at Mack Bros the maker of the can about this and see what he has to say

 

[338 dude]

yes CLR works good, but I now go to Dollar Tree and get a cleaner called Awsome, a big bottle only costs 1.00. well got a couple of rubber strap wrenchs and a buddy tried our best and it will not budge so I am just going to remove the end cap and run cleaner in the ultra sonic and go from there. hopefully Dale will call Monday and will me what to do or I will call him later that day again. I know one thing for sure I will have to think long and hard before I buy another Banish product. thanks everone for the ideas. Jim

Awesome is mostly bleach. I use that on the siding of my house.

 

[ntsqd]

If the threads are titanium or stainless steel you need to be very particular about which of the many anti-seizes available is used on them.

A poster on RFC recently pointed me at a lead based anti-seize, which I had thought was NLA. Lead based has been what I used in high heat applications on race cars until I couldn't find it any more. I'd suggest research before using it on a can, but this is the product that he pointed me to: https://armitelabs.com/product/mil907/
Should be aware that there are later revisions to the 907 spec, and that the compounds that conform to those later revs are not the same stuff. This is rev. F product. The mfg claims it is good up to almost 3000°F. I bought it from here: https://skygeek.com/military-specif...-temp-anti-seize-compound-1-lb-brush-top.html but it looks like there are other sources like: https://www.145.aero/Armite-Lubricants-MIL-PRF-907F-p/mil-prf-907f-lbpt.htm
HTH....

 

[Deviant]

has anyone had the problem of trying to take a Banish 30 apart to clean? after getting a new baffle from Mack Bros for one that I damaged I put it back together correctly and used anti-sieze on all treads so it would not freeze together from heat.so today I saw carbon cloud come out while testing loads so time to clean right? took front cap off and removed the 2 baffles then tried to unscrew the other 2 pieces from the main body but they will not unscrew at all, I only put it together hand tight. so put it in the sonic cleaner nice and clean now but will not come apart to get the baffles out to finish cleaning, any ideas? thanks Jim

I have the older 3.0 from Mack Bros and the spacer is permanently stuck. I can still get the baffles out though. I put a silicone cork in mine and fill it with Boretech over night then in the sonic cleaner and it comes out real clean.

 

[TRG65]

I couldn't get the extension or the baffles out of mine. I sent it back and they replaced the extension and those baffles. After I got it back, I still couldn't get the back 6 baffles out. That was after multiple rounds of CLR and sonic cleaning and even letting it set full of oil. I shortened it for a PRS match. I had a total of 121 rounds though it between checking zero, getting dope, and the match. Now I can't get the front cap off again. I had put it on with anti seize and only hand tight. I have again run it through CLR, sonic cleaning, and let it set full of mpro 7 for a couple days a couple times. It is again stuck. At least now it is a permanent 7" can as I like that better than the 9.

Unfortunately, KGM quit selling to the public.

 

[SDPlinker]

Well, I don't know fellas? All I can do is try to help without knowing how you all are doing things.
After reading that this thread continuing, I happened to have my Banish 30 sitting here, I had swapped rifles and suppressors in my bag from Banish 30 to Banish .338 one piece. So I picked my Banish 30 up and by hand without strain loosened the end extension. I would have to look through my logs, but it has been on 2 .300 WMs and maybe 75-100 rounds since clean. I will not clean until 150-200.

No special cleaning solutions or sonics. Hoppes, sometimes acetone and baffles in SS tumbler.
No special tools.
I do not overheat or abuse my equipment.
I do not remove the end cap before the extension, to prevent deformity and binding.

I use a couple little dots of high temp synthetic grease and reinstall by hand.

I use only Banish products from Silencer Central, I waited a year for my .338 to come to market, and could have purchased any other brand I wanted. Their customer service is great, and the product is excellent. If anyone has a question, I will try to help best I can, but is difficult not knowing all the variables.

 

[jraulsten]

I almost feel guilty after reading some of these posts. I clean mine after every 50-100 rounds like the book says and thank goodness the baffles always fall out with a few taps on a wooden work bench. I've just been cleaning the inside of the tube and the baffles with Bore Tech Carbon Remover. I just picked up some CLR to try next since it's a lot cheaper than the Bore Tech stuff!

 

[SDPlinker]

I almost feel guilty after reading some of these posts. I clean mine after every 50-100 rounds like the book says and thank goodness the baffles always fall out with a few taps on a wooden work bench. I've just been cleaning the inside of the tube and the baffles with Bore Tech Carbon Remover. I just picked up some CLR to try next since it's a lot cheaper then the Bore Tech stuff!

Yup! Nothing exotic, just like a barrel!

 

[jraulsten]

Yup! Nothing exotic, just like a barrel!

Think I'm going to give one of the new Backcountry a try next!

 

[SDPlinker]

Think I'm going to give one of the new Backcountry a try next!

That one looks good so does the 46.

 

[C-130 Dude]

has anyone had the problem of trying to take a Banish 30 apart to clean? after getting a new baffle from Mack Bros for one that I damaged I put it back together correctly and used anti-sieze on all treads so it would not freeze together from heat.so today I saw carbon cloud come out while testing loads so time to clean right? took front cap off and removed the 2 baffles then tried to unscrew the other 2 pieces from the main body but they will not unscrew at all, I only put it together hand tight. so put it in the sonic cleaner nice and clean now but will not come apart to get the baffles out to finish cleaning, any ideas? thanks Jim

Send it back and have them deal with it.

 

[Jasbo]

I always use anti seize on the treads but have had to take it to SC twice to get it apart. from now on I will just soak it in CLR and not take it apart

hydehunter: I have zero suppressor experience as I live in SW Illinois where geniuses in league with soon to be Past-Mayor Lori Lightfoot maintain their bans. I reply only hoping you have an opportunity to use Kroil. As I'm sure you know Kroil is available from Brownells and others. With patience and Kroil I saved tens of thousands in the electro-mechanical repair industry where caustics and acids rendered fasteners 'seized'. Always my first attack on tight or seized fasteners.

 

[scpaul]

I have no experience with suppressors but had to deal with high temp and pressure in my job before I was retired. We used graphite grease, actually has a high % of graphite or maybe graphite powder. Good luck.
scpaul