Flash hole uniforming?

My first thought is, if your shooting 1/2 to 3/4 moa with Rem and Win brass, don't touch a thing.

But then, I'm quite OCD, so I touch EVERYTHING!!

Vettepilot
 
I remember the first time I ever de-burred rifle primer pockets. Feeling the tool knock off the flash, or hole plug piece on nearly every piece made a believer out of me! (Rem, Win, and other such brass; even LC "match" brass.)

Vettepilot
 
I enjoy takging the time to make sure my brass is prepped as well as I can get it. I also give Lapua and Peterson a run though. IMHO and experience, Time at the bench correlates to Accuracy on the range.
 
You don't want any burrs on the inside of the primer flash hole. That's a given. I have always wondered what the affect of the chamfering of the inner flash hole has on the flame from the primer. The an inner flash hole de-burring tool has about a 3/16" shaft and approximately a 30 degree shoulder on the cutter. So does that 30 degree chamfer at the inside flash hole "mouth" cause/allow the primer flame to flare more evenly throughout ignition of the powder charge ? I set my inner flash hole tool up to only chamfer 0.010" of the inner flash hole. That is enough to remove the burrs . But I wonder if a bit more say 0.015" – 0.018" would give an advantage. If it does, do the manufactures that drill the flash hole chamfer that inside flash hole ?
 
When a primer hole is punched, it can, and I dare say often does leave that punched piece attached to the primer hole inside. Then there is the case of "not so sharp anymore" punches that might leave ragged flashing. I would say cleaning these up would lead to very possibly more consistent main charge ignition.

Regards actually chamfering the primer flash hole, that exceeds even MY level of OCD, and belief in any measurable gains.

Vettepilot
 
snip............ Brass from high end makers like Lapua, Nosler, Norma, ADG, Gunwerks (which I beleive is also ADG) have drilled flash holes so there is nothing to trim. .........snip

I don't want to appear argumentative but no manufacturer drills flash holes. They are all punched. This myth was dispelled a couple of years back by the Lapua of NA rep. Drilling the flash holes could be done, no doubt, but we would be complaining about the significant increase in cost of brass and it would provide no benefit over the punch process.
 
If your expecting to see much difference in prep vrs non prep win, rem brass etc at 100 probably not but now 500 and beyond thats a different story.
I've only seen it make much of a difference at 100 and thst was on some junk Bertram 28 Nosler brass
 
I don't want to appear argumentative but no manufacturer drills flash holes. They are all punched. This myth was dispelled a couple of years back by the Lapua of NA rep. Drilling the flash holes could be done, no doubt, but we would be complaining about the significant increase in cost of brass and it would provide no benefit over the punch process.
Ok they are deburred at the factory so you don't have to do it on the brands I listed. And Norma does drill the magnum cases.
 
Ok they are deburred at the factory so you don't have to do it on the brands I listed. And Norma does drill the magnum cases.
Norma do not drill any cases, not a single manufacturer drills flash holes.
Norma used to machine primer pockets, but not flash holes and I believe they no longer machine primer pockets. They are punched/stamped just like every case made.

Cheers.
 
NOSLER:

  1. Fully prepped, ready to load
  2. Case mouths are chamfered and deburred
  3. Nosler Brass is hand-inspected and weight-sorted
  4. Flash holes are deburred and checked for proper alignment
  5. Quality made, Nosler Brass is packaged in quantities of 25, 50 and 100 count boxes
  6. Each piece of brass is full length sized and trimmed to proper length
 
IMHO, I segregate all my cases by weight and De burr the inside of the flash hole, and chamfer and deburr the case case mouth, and really clean the inside of the neck. Taken separately , each one of these steps means very little, but all combined they offer an improvement in precision that you would not see if you didn't do them all. so , if you are happy with your hunting loads as they are , you have answered your own question, however, if you would like to see a slight improvement, the do all the steps on 20 rounds and see for yourself.
 
It only needs done once in the life of the shell. I do lots of this kind of thing while watching TV in the evening.

(Then I can go to bed feeling "All warm and fuzzy")

:):););)

Vettepilot
 
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