First time coming across pressure

[Apothus]

So I've reloaded for several calibers, but I've always found a load I'm happy with before I hit any pressure signs. A friend of mine gave me a box of 180 grain accubonds, so I went on to Nosler's website. The most accurate powder was Reloder 22, so that's what I went with. I shot 5 rounds each at 60, 60.5, and 61 grains in a round robin fashion. 61 grains was a compressed load, but it shot by far the best. However, 2 out of the 5 cases in the 61 Grain load had ejector swipes on them. Bolt lift was smooth, no cratering or flattening in the primer, but the swipe mark was there.

So my question is where should I go? Should I try .2 or .3 grains lighter and hope that I'm still in the accuracy node? Since I was testing is fairly cool weather is the pressure going to be worse during summer when it's hot? Also I went with the book length at 3.30, if I added 10 thousandths, and the load wasn't so compressed would that help with pressure?

I know it's a lot of questions all at once, sorry about that. I just want to save powder and projectiles. My current plan is load 5 of 60.7 and 61 again and shoot them to see what happens.

 

[Gunpoor]

I would suggest reloading the cases you have already fired in that rifle and see how they perform. I don't know how temp sensitive R22 is but it sounds like you are good to go with the load you have, but warmer weather might cause a problem. I don't consider a reload over-pressure until bolt lift is heavier than normal and primers flattened.

 

[g0rd0]

I have used RL22 in 7rm in both winter and summer, I have noticed no real difference. 99.99% of my shooting is done at the bench so I check every case for preasure signs and noticed no preasure signs.

What I have noticed though is rem brass and my rifle do not like each other. No matter what powder or bullet combo I use rem brass always makes for a sticky bolt. So, I just don't use it any more.

But check the box. A bullet seated too close to the lands can give a high preasure

On my etip box is the bc number and the sujested seat to lands distance. If that figure is not there contact nosler with the batch number, weight, cal and any other markings they will let you know.

I seat my etips in 7rm at 50though and they work just great.

If you do not have the fancy tools all you need to find the land measurement for any bullet is to size a brass ( no powder or primer! ), lube the inside of the neck then place a bullet into the neck just enough to hold it in place. Now chamber that dummy ( the lands will act as a seating stem ), then measure the oal, if the seat depth is listed on the box subtract that figure if not subtract 30 thou and start there

 

[WeiserBucks]

I wouldn't stress about the ejector marks , yet . If it's accurate and has the speed you want , I would use the same load into the warmer weather and watch for increased pressure.

If you find the load acceptable in hot weather, carry on. If it's over pressure, drop the powder charge or use a more stable powder . Early pressure signs are generally not unsafe, but be aware that you are nearing the line on that particular load. Nothing wrong with using a max load , just don't get greedy and start pushing it harder .

 

[bigedp51]

If you have ejector marks with a raised bump you have exceeded the elastic limits of the brass and are over pressure.
The strength of the brass or its hardness governs when you will have brass flow into the ejector. Meaning some brands of brass will flow sooner because the brass is softer. Example Lake City Brass is harder than Remington or Federal.

How hard is your brass

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com...r-brass-5-56-and-223-rem-base-hardness-tests/

If you have a circler mark without a raised bump the ejector hole might have sharp edges that need stoning.

Below measuring base expansion just above the extractor groove.

Simple Trick for Monitoring Pressure of Your Rifle Reloads | Hodgdon Reloading